Searching for the ultimate classically-inspired holiday gift for a family member, friend, or the gentleman in your life? Or maybe it’s time to indulge yourself this holiday season? No matter who you’re shopping for, our expertly curated gift guide, organized by price point, is sure to have something you’ll absolutely adore!

Up to $50

The ideal gent’s

Stocking Stuffer

What makes an old pair of shoes look brand new without worrying about sizing or fit and at a fraction of the cost? New shoe and boot laces! A dash of unexpected color or unique texture from new laces can change your shoes or boots’ formality, appearance, and effect. And best of all? No sizing to worry about.

Just $9 per pair!

Gentleman Jon Alum Block ($10)

Necktie Travel Roll Case ($12)

Traveling with a necktie can be risky; they are easily squished or creased in luggage, and what’s the point of having a tie if not to look good? Check out this simple and inexpensive solution for frequent travelers: the necktie travel roll case. While we don’t recommend storing your ties rolled for longer than necessary, this is a great solution for getting from point A to B.

Available on Amazon!

Kent Wang Horn Collar Stays ($15)

Keep your shirt collars looking crisp and elegant with these horn collar stays from Kent Wang, sustainably sourced from water buffaloes. Each of these stays, which measure 2.5″ by 3/8″, vary in color from a warm brown to a deep tan, and thanks to the natural flexibility of the horn, they will offer years of service, keeping your shirt collar points from appearing lank or crumpled.

BUY NOW!

Vorspack Dopp Kit ($16)

Be ready to help your man look his best on his next trip, no matter where life takes him! This durable and attractive dopp kit is 10 x 5 x 5.5 inches: large enough to handle all you need but still easy to stow in carry-on luggage. The waterproof interior lining protects you and your clothes from accidental spills.

Anker PowerCore III Sense 10K ($20)

Here is what one of our writers, Elaisa, has to say about this power pack:

“I like my purchases to be worthwhile, so I always try to find the best brands that will satisfy these three considerations: cost, quality, and aesthetic (I know not everyone will agree with this, but let’s be honest, everything needs to look good these days). So I’ve been using this power bank for almost 2 years now (gifted this during Christmas Manito-Manita last year), and it has proven its worth. This has been dropped a few times, and I couldn’t see any scratches or cracks, although the back is prone to fingerprints—it’s not really a problem for me. The standout factor for me is how super lightweight it is, despite being able to charge my phone 3-4 times, plus it’s fast charging! Compare this with other options of the same charging capacity, which are heavy, bulky, and really add weight to your luggage or travel bag. This power bank, however, is travel-friendly and compact enough to fit in small bags. I also use this to charge my DJI Pocket 2, and it can charge it up to three times, allowing me to take videos of the beautiful places I visit. If you look at its textured cover, you’ll notice the cool, modern look of the surface details, and I love the effect  (I also love gray, so …). It’s the first thing others notice, too, often earning me compliments, so I’m really happy with this one.”

scented candles by

Lulu ($20+)

With dozens of different scents available, these long-lasting soy candles with cotton wicks will help you set any desired mood in any space in your home. One of our favorites is warm pipe tobacco!

Buy now!

Colorful Montblanc Ink Bottles ($26)

What do you give the fountain pen lover who has everything? How about a bottle of Montblanc ink in an exciting and unexpected color? From modena red to toffee brown and amethyst purple to Irish green, these unique shades help even the most accomplished writer stand out in the best possible way.

Crane & Co. Stationery ($28)

Could there be a better complement for your exceptional gift-giving than when they send you a “Thank You” note with the fine stationery that you bought for them? Crane & Co. offers a wide array of writing papers, envelopes, and cards: you can even create a custom set!

Air Tags / Galaxy Tags / Tile Trackers ($30+)

Are you constantly losing little items like your keys, the remote, or a commonplace book? Or are you afraid that your airlines might lose your luggage? Consider a discreet but extremely helpful tracking tag that allows you to hunt down those lost items wherever they might be hiding. Consider Airtags for optimization with Apple products, Galaxy Tags for Android phone users, or Tile trackers for a generic option.

Classic Vinyl Records ($30+)

Audiophiles often say that nothing compares to the pressed-in audio fidelity of a genuine vinyl record. We’re inclined to agree, and if anyone on your “Nice List” owns a turntable, consider expanding their LP collection with a few classic records. We suggest In the Wee Small Hours of the Morning by Frank Sinatra, Kind of Blue by Miles Davis, and Time Out by the Dave Brubeck Quartet.

You can find re-releases on Amazon or originals in your local record shop.

Fishwife Tinned Seafood Co.

Smoky Trio ($33)

Enjoyed as a cooking ingredient, a crumble over salads, or by itself, tinned fish from The Fishwife Tinned Seafood Co. is a delectable stocking stuffer that any fish-loving fellow will enjoy. Caught in Norway and smoked in the state of Washington, he will flip over this fantastic fish; we suggest starting with the Smoky Trio pack of salmon, mackerel, and rainbow trout.

Highball Wood Cocktail Muddler ($38)

Muddling cocktails helps to release the fragrant oils of citrus fruits and herbs. Some muddlers can be too narrow or slippery, which makes a simple Mojito far more work than it should be. This muddler is nearly as wide as a typical highball glass, offering a better grip and preventing the fruits and herbs from escaping being crushed. For the home cocktail enthusiast, a muddler is a tool that is as attractive as it is functional.

Bottoms up! Find it on Etsy!

Fort Belvedere Black Tie Accessories ($45+)

Black Tie elegance has never been easier (or more dapper!)

Fort Belvedere

Black Self-Tie Diamond Bow Tie in Silk Satin Sized with Pointed Ends

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Fort Belvedere

Dark Red Carnation Boutonniere Life Size Lapel Flower

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Fort Belvedere

Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Onyx Ball – 925 Sterling Silver Platinum Plated

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Fort Belvedere

White Linen Pocket Square with Handrolled Edges, Made in Italy

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Fort Belvedere

Finest Over The Calf Socks in Black Silk

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Fort Belvedere

Black Satin Evening Shoelaces

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When it comes to formal attire, every little detail matters. Help him get the details exactly right with these stunning Black Tie accessories from Fort Belvedere. Everything you need to make a smoking Le Smoking ensemble is here, from decadent silk dress socks to crisp bow ties that are individually sized and come with various bow styles to make your formal evening look all your own.

$50 to $100

J.C. Leyendecker: American Imagist Art Book ($50)

Whether seeking out vintage style inspiration or a way to liven up a drab coffee table, J.C. Leyendecker: American Imagist by Laurence S. Cutler and Judy Goffman Cutler chronicles the life and career of this remarkable illustrator with a fascinating narrative and countless high-quality, vibrantly transferred full-color photographs of his most famous and iconic works.

Luigi Bormioli "Veronese" Rocks Glasses ($60)

When your dad drinks, make sure that he drinks in style. Luigi Bormioli is one of our favorite producers of beautiful, functional, and practical barware. We especially like their “Veronese” line of rocks glasses because they have a lovely heft that feels great and keeps your drink in place while the thick glass prevents your hands from warming up cold beverages; the beautiful classic lines don’t hurt, either!

Bottoms Up! Buy them here!

Fort Belvedere Wool-Silk Pocket Squares ($60+)

Over 100 pocket squares are available at the Fort Belvedere website!

Fort Belvedere

Buff Rabbits on Navy Blue with Green Silk Wool Pocket Square

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Fort Belvedere

Wine Red, Yellow,Blue, Green, Orange Silk Wool Medallion Pocket Square

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Fort Belvedere

Purple, Orange, Green, Blue Silk Wool Pocket Square

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Fort Belvedere

Peruse Our Entire Collection

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During the colder days of the year, pocket squares in a wool-silk blend look particularly dapper because they are less shiny than their all-silk counterparts, and the colors are still vivid but a bit more subdued and, hence, perfectly fitting for the season.

Museum Membership ($60+)

Give the gift of culture and the arts this holiday season by surprising that special someone with a local art, history, or cultural museum membership. Whether for a connoisseur or a newbie, a museum membership is a gift that can be enjoyed the entire year. Our local art museum, the Minneapolis Institute of Art, offers starting memberships at just $60.

Roberto Ugolini Fragrance Sampler Set ($70)

Can’t choose between all of the fabulous fragrances offered by Roberto Ugolini? Now you don’t have to! This sample pack gives you access to the entire line to wear and test each fragrance to find your perfect fit.

Matfer Bourgeat Black Carbon Steel 11 ⅞ Fry Pan ($70)

Raphael himself swears by this pan as a versatile option that doesn’t break the bank like other brands can. He has found that the 11 7/8″ size is ideal for most home chefs.

Want another tip? Raphael says: “Elevate your cooking experience with a Lodge silicone handle.”

Folio Society Classic Edition

Books ($75+)

For the dedicated reader, these handsomely bound and illustrated editions of favorite novels could be the perfect way to experience a beloved book again. We especially enjoy the James Bond books by Ian Fleming.

Shop the whole collection

Wireless Earbuds ($98+)

Wireless earbuds make it so easy to enjoy music discreetly, talk on the phone, or block out that outside noise! For best results, select a product that matches the make of the gift-receiver’s mobile phone. We suggest Sony WF-C500 Wireless Earbuds for Android phones and AirPods for iOS users.

$100 to $300

Annual Subscription to the Criterion Channel ($100)

Elevate their streaming experience with an annual subscription to The Criterion Channel this holiday season. An incredible repository of foreign, art, and classic films, The Criterion Channel features thousands of films that will keep the cinephile in your life busy until next Christmas!

Thrifty Traveller Premium Subscription ($100)

For the dad who loves to travel, consider a subscription to Thrifty Traveler! The Schneider family has been utilizing this program for years, and it has saved them thousands of dollars. It also allows them to upgrade to business class for international flights. Say “goodbye” to coach!

This program provides one-on-one personal credit card recommendations based on your spending behaviors, and they advise you on the best way to go about collecting miles so you can collect points and transfer them to all airlines. Even if you don’t collect miles, they have great cash deals domestically and internationally. The premium subscription gives you access tp their portal and email newsletter, where they send you deals from your home airport that you can then book, all with great step-by-step instructions.

Please note that this program currently only operates in the United States of America.

eReader ($105+)

This Gift is Preston-Approved!

A dedicated e-reader eliminates the distractions of other devices, allowing the user to focus fully on reading. When Preston was gifted an e-reader (in his specific case, an Amazon Kindle Paperwhite) by his wife, he was initially unsure whether or not he would get much use out of it; after all, he had considered himself someone who appreciates the tactile, experiential nature of paper books. While this remains true, Preston immediately realized the benefits of the e-reader when taking a trip to Sweden in the spring of 2024. Not only did he have a more engrossing way to occupy his non-conversational downtime at airport gates and on trains than simply scrolling on his phone, but he could choose from a far wider selection of books than if he had endeavored to bring physical copies along. Further, many e-readers support free e-book loans with a valid library card, so Preston was happily able to reengage with his local library. He reports with some pride that after going several years finishing one book or none at all annually, he has read five books and counting in 2024!

Genuine Balsamic Vinegar from Modena, Italy by Villa Ronzan ($110)

When we say “real” balsamic vinegar, we don’t mean the kind you buy at the grocery store or even on the shelves of your local Italian specialty store. Authentic balsamic vinegar is produced in a strictly regulated, time-intensive process carrying a D.O.P. stamp. One of our favorites is made by Villa Ronzan.

Find it on Amazon

Custom Portrait Illustration ($120+)

Give the gift of an unforgettable work of art! Online or locally, find an artist who will transform your photographs, like a portrait or treasured memory, into a unique piece of art.

At the 2023 Belvedere Bash in Minneapolis, Minnesota, we commissioned a local artist, Claire Ward, to create fashion-style illustrations of some of our guests’ fantastic ensembles.

Henckel Classic Set of Four

Steak Knives ($125)

Bon appétit! Every steak he eats will taste better thanks to these classic and elegant steak knives.

available on Amazon

Fort Belvedere 4-Cardholder Slim Wallet ($125+)

Give the gift of the slimmest, finest, most elegant card carrier wallet! The four study slots on this cardholder will allow him to carry all of his essential cards in a slim profile wallet that won’t ruin the lines or drape of his clothes. With nine colors and four leather varieties, we offer a slim wallet to suit every style, occasion, and type of gentleman in your life!

Fort Belvedere

Black Slim Card Carrier Wallet with Cash Pocket in Full-Grain Togo Leather

Only Available from Fort Belvedere!

Fort Belvedere

Golden Brown Slim Card Carrier Wallet with Cash Pocket in Full-Grain Togo Leather

Only Available from Fort Belvedere!

Fort Belvedere

Orange Slim Card Carrier Wallet with Cash Pocket in Full-Grain Togo Leather

Only Available from Fort Belvedere!

Fort Belvedere

Boardroom Taupe Slim Card Carrier Wallet with Cash Pocket in Full-Grain Togo Leather

Only Available from Fort Belvedere!

Fort Belvedere

Black Slim Card Carrier Wallet with Cash Pocket in Full-Grain Americana Leather

Only Available from Fort Belvedere!

Fort Belvedere

Vintage Gold Tan Slim Card Carrier Wallet with Cash Pocket in Full-Grain Americana Leather

Only Available from Fort Belvedere!

Fort Belvedere

Antique Mahogany Slim Card Carrier Wallet with Cash Pocket in Full-Grain Montecristo Leather

Only Available from Fort Belvedere!

Fort Belvedere

Saddle Brown Slim Card Carrier Wallet with Cash Pocket in Full-Grain Montecristo Leather

Only Available from Fort Belvedere!

Fort Belvedere

Saddle Brown Slim Card Carrier Wallet with Cash Pocket in Full-Grain Dumont Leather

Only Available from Fort Belvedere!

Piedaterre Venezia Velvet

Slippers ($135)

Throw the bunny slippers in the trash and help him upgrade his house shoe game with a gorgeous pair of velvet house shoes. Our writer Eb Daniels loves his emerald green pair from Piedaterre Venezia, and with dozens of decadent color choices, you can find a pair to suit any style or personality. They also carry slippers in other materials for warm weather and hotter climates.

It always pays to invest in items that keep you comfortable, and that’s doubly true for anything that also helps to keep you dry! A quality stick umbrella is a dapper tool that ensures you look great while avoiding the wet.

Fort Belvedere Pen Cases ($145)

Vintage Tan

Full-Grain Leather

Mahogany

Magnet Closure

Togo Black

Full Protection

Discover the ultimate in luxury and protection with our high-quality luxury pen pouches. Crafted with precision, these pouches feature folded edges and are made entirely from top-grade leather—no fabric, just pure elegance. The magnetic closure ensures easy access, allowing you to effortlessly retrieve your writing instrument whenever inspiration strikes.

These pen cases are designed to safeguard your treasured writing tools, whether it’s a fountain pen, ballpoint, or rollerball pen. Not only do they provide superior protection, but they also add a touch of sophistication to your everyday carry. Elevate your writing experience and make a statement with a pen pouch that reflects your refined taste. Choose our luxury pen pouches and protect your pens in style.

Don’t miss out on owning the finest accessory for your writing instruments. Act now and indulge in the elegance and functionality that only our pen pouches can offer!

World Poker Tour Clay Poker Set ($150)

When it is poker night at The Gentleman’s Gazette, we gather around the table and play with Raphael’s exceptional World Poker Tour clay chips. Looking for a pack of cards? We use Copag.

Fort Belvedere 4 Suits Poker Pocket Square with Embroidered Hearts, Spaces, Clubs, and Spades

Be ready for poker night with this fun 100% Italian linen pocket square from Fort Belvedere, embroidered with the four suits. We can’t guarantee it will bring you luck, but we can guarantee that it will help you look your very best!

Will Luck be a lady tonight?

Fort Belvedere

Watch Cases

Starting at just $175 for a single-capacity case and available in two- and three-watch capacities in four different Italian tannery-made leather finishes, these carriers are fully lined in grippy suede that naturally holds and protects your watch in place.

Luxury Watches need luxury cases

HORL Knife Sharpening Set ($189)

A good chef knows that his knives are only as good as their sharpness, because dull knives are ineffective and dangerous; but getting knives professionally sharpened is inconvenient and can be expensive. Enter the HORL Knife Sharpening Set, featuring all of the tools that you need to keep your fine knives in fine shape.

Raphael Schneider loves to cook, and he has derived considerable use and benefit from this set, so he highly recommends it. In fact, it is so easy and fun to use that Raphael almost looks forward to sharpening his knives, meaning that he is more regular in his care. This attentiveness drastically improves the lifespan of the expensive German and Japanese knives that the Schneiders own.

Shun Premier 8″ Chef’s Knife ($200)

We’ve tested numerous chef knives. There are many we like, such as the Wustoff knives from Germany and the Evercut Furtif from France, but the one we like the most is the Shun 8” Premier chef’s knife from Japan. It is lightweight, surgically sharp, easy to use, and comfortable for most hands. What makes it an especially stunning investment piece is how beautiful it looks on the counter with the gorgeous dark wood handle, its gold cap, and the layered Damascus cladding with a hammered tsuchime finish. 

Baturina Classic Dressing Gown ($215+)

Whether he’s bundled up against the cold or getting ready for an evening out, he will love doing it in a classic men’s dressing gown. We are particularly impressed with the offerings from Baturina. No matter your choice, it will look much better than a pair of sweatpants!

Audio-Technica Bluetooth Stereo

Turntable ($220)

Old favorites sound better on a turntable record player, and if he has a collection of records, he will love listening to them on this hi-fi record player outfitted with all the latest bells and whistles.

Find it on Amazon

Bose Portable Bluetooth

Speaker ($220)

Don’t let inferior speakers ruin your listening experience. These exceptional speakers from Bose connect wirelessly without compromising sound quality.

Available from Amazon

Roberto Ugolini Fragrances ($255+)

Give him the gift of an introduction into the rarefied world of luxurious niche fragrances with a beautiful flacon from Roberto Ugolini. These exceptional scents represent the pinnacle of olfactory excellence in the world of menswear. With an expanding collection from which to choose, find your and his new favorite scent today.

Full-Grain Leather Passport Holder ($260)

When traveling, focus on the experience, not on managing your flight credentials with bulky folders, multiple wallets, or crammed pockets. Introducing the Fort Belvedere Passport Holder, crafted from premium Italian full-grain leather and designed for frequent flyers. This passport protector and document carrier offers all the storage you need, including three passport pouches, seven card slots, and a full-sized central pouch. Elevate your travel experience with the Fort Belvedere Travel Document Holder today!

Available in Four Leather Finishes

Cotton Bathrobe by

Frette ($265)

Whether leaving the bath or leaving the pool, a quality and classic bathrobe keeps away the chill while layering on the class. Frette is an Italian company that has been manufacturing fine household products for decades and even holds an exclusive commission from some of the world’s finest luxury hotels; our writer Eb Daniels bought his from the Gritti Palace Hotel in Venice, Italy!

Fort Belvedere Leather Wallets ($270)

If he uses it daily, he should love it, so find a wallet he will love at Fort Belvedere!

We aimed to create a bifold wallet that combines spacious storage with a slim profile, using high-quality full-grain leather for durability. By precisely skiving the joining sections, we reduce thickness, and each material is chosen to ensure a sleek look without losing function or sturdiness. We redesigned the central pocket layout to make it slimmer without losing capacity.

This wallet offers eight or ten card slots and a divided main pocket, maintaining its slim profile even when fully loaded, thanks to our careful design choices. While other brands might achieve thinness with smaller card slots, tighter card placement, or synthetic linings, we focus on intentional design to keep the wallet thin and functional.

Saddle Brown

European Leather

Vintage Tan

Leather Dividers

Mahogany

Full Capacity

$300 to $500

Bossanova Kingsize Classic Hammock ($300)

Hammocks are a tradition in South America, and Raphael has enjoyed using one to relax since childhood with his Brazilian father. Unlike synthetic hammocks, this handmade Brazilian hammock is made from breathable, durable organic cotton, which keeps you cool and comfortable. 

Luxury Caviar from Paris

Kaviari ($305)

Served at some of the finest restaurants in the world, including Atlas in Atlanta, where our write Eb sampled some, this Kaviari Imperial Beluga Caviar is the ultimate luxury stocking-stuffer for the gormound in your life.

Get the toast Wedges!

Persol 649 Sunglasses ($342)

Classic rounded sunglasses not only flatter almost all faces but also have the unique ability to make young faces look more mature and more mature faces look more youthful. The iconic Persol 649-series sunglasses are rightfully famous in Classic Menswear as the epitome of stylish flair and charm and will make the ideal addition to any wardrobe. Thanks to their dark tortoiseshell coloring and combination of oversized, organically curved frames, these sunglasses will naturally suit the overwhelming majority of face shapes, meaning that no matter what your father’s face looks like, it will probably look awesome in a pair of these stylish Italian sunglasses.

Bowhill & Elliott Opera Pumps ($380+)

Let's Hear from Jack Collins!

“Am I biased because I live near Bowhill & Elliott? Perhaps. Am I biased because I’m a classic style enthusiast who loves his Bowhill & Elliott opera pumps? Absolutely. When it came to assembling my first black tie ensemble for my 30th birthday celebrations, I knew I wanted something that would be specific to an eveningwear outfit, so no high-shine oxfords for me; it had to be black patent leather. The beauty of the opera pump is that you can then also wear them with a white tie ensemble if ever given the chance, so you’re getting a surprisingly versatile shoe in one purchase. With an almost indestructible leather sole, the opera pumps from Bowhill & Elliott pair longevity with comfort, as the low vamp and quilted lining make them perhaps the most comfortable element of your eveningwear wardrobe. Plus, Mr. Sinatra found opera pumps to be so comfortable and stylish that he used to wear them for traveling. You can’t get a better endorsement than Frank.”

Riedel Wine Decanter ($400)

Decanting allows wine to breathe, which helps to release its aromas and flavors. This is especially beneficial for young red wines, which can be tight and closed off right out of the bottle. Riedel has been manufacturing luxury glassware for decades and remains a leader in the field, and our writer Eb receives nothing but compliments when he serves wine from this elegant decanter that also has the benefit of being very easy to clean.

Maglia Dark Maple Umbrella ($440)

Getting soaked in a sudden rainstorm is never a good look, so make sure the gent in your life is ready for any weather by arming him with a telescopic umbrella from Maglia, makers of fine umbrellas since 1854. Built to last, perfectly waterproof, and beautiful, too, these umbrellas are some of our favorites.

Take shelter under this umbrella now!

Baracuta G9 Harrington Jacket ($450)

When Raphael first reviewed the Baracuta G9 Harrington jacket, he didn’t think that he would like it. Imagine his surprise when it quickly became one of his favorite transitional jackets.

We’ll let his review speak for itself:

“First of all, it comes in a really large range of colors but it also has a very pleasing slim modern cut, even though it was designed in 1937. I’m really pleased with the length of the sleeves. On top of that, it’s a very functional jacket; I can wear it when it’s raining outside when I need to pick up some groceries or drop off my daughter somewhere.

If you consider the price per wear and you just wear it ten times during the spring and ten times during the fall for just ten years, that breaks down to $1.95 per wear which I think is totally worth it.”

$500 to $1000

Museum-Quality Replicas ($500+)

Make his desk or den the envy of any collector with a quality, large-sized reproduction of a beloved work of art. On a large scale, these replicas become one-of-a-kind decorative items themselves and will always make a monumental impression on anyone who sees them.

Check out these offerings from Design Toscano, the Getty Museum, and Museum Replicas.

Season Tickets to a Cultural Event ($550+)

During the season of giving, consider a gift that can be used year-around: tickets to a recurring cultural event, like a season of plays, musicals, or operas. While season tickets are available at many price points, for an unforgettable gift, why not splurge on prime orchestra or mezzanine seats? After all, who doesn’t love an excuse to get all dressed up?

Montblanc MB 01 Over-Ear Headphones ($600)

If the man you’re shopping for is an audiophile, he should never compromise when it comes to enjoying the beauty of sound; too often, headphones are made too small for men with larger ears, like Raphael. Whether he has large ears or not, he will never have to compromise with these classic over-the-ear style headphones from Montblanc. Made with high-quality aluminum, fine leather, and robust silicon, these headphones will last even when taken on the road or through the skies on long trips.

Nakata Valet Stand

“Giorno” ($650)

He will truly feel like the lord of the manor when aided in his dressing and undressing by this beechwood valet stand made in Japan by Nakata. The sturdy hangers keep his jacket and trousers handy and neat while the tidbit tray provides the perfect temporary storage for a wallet, keys, cufflinks, and similar small objects. This model even features an elevated shoe rack for airing shoes; Nakata has truly thought of everything.

Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker ($700)

We all scream for ice cream, and with this fun and easy ice cream maker, your dad can make it himself! With a 1 ½ quart capacity this industrious little machine can freeze up to three quarts of ice cream or sorbet per hour. Fully automatic, you only need to fill it with ingredients and then push two buttons with preconfigured settings for different frozen confections.

Raphael received this exact model as a gift from his family and making his own ice cream has quickly become one of his favorite hobbies. Every time Raphael makes ice cream for others he is inundated with compliments and after dessert he is happy to show off this handy gadget to his guests.

Tissot PRX ($725)

What does Chris Dummer have to say about this classic wristwatch?

“The Tissot PRX is an excellent holiday gift choice for those who appreciate timeless style blended with modern functionality. Its sleek, retro design nods to classic 1970s timepieces, offering a vintage charm that’s right on trend. This watch is versatile enough to be dressed up or down, making it suitable for any occasion and a perfect wardrobe staple. The Swiss craftsmanship ensures precision and durability, signaling a gift of quality. It’s a thoughtful present that speaks to one’s taste and the desire to offer something both luxurious and practical. For anyone looking to make a lasting impression, the Tissot PRX won’t disappoint.”

Classic Silk Pajama Set ($885)

Nothing will make the man in your life feel like a gentleman of leisure quite like a true silk pajama set. Traditional pajamas, composed of a button-down, notch-collar lapel shirt and matching drawstring bottoms, used to be a department store staple. Few men wear them anymore, so why not revisit them with this ultra-lux pair from Derek Rose made from 100% silk? You won’t be afraid to open the door for the UPS guy wearing these pajamas.

$1000+

iPad Pro 13-Inch with Keyboard and Stylus ($1250)

As a busy entrepeneur who seeks out the best technology, Raphael is never far from his iPad Pro. The 13-inch screen lets him see what he needs to see without affecting portability. And with a stylus and keyboard interface, he can utilize this tool in any way he needs to get things done, whether he’s at the office, commuting, or riding in an airplane.

Whether the lucky fellow who receives this gift uses it for business, pleasure, or both, we believe that the beautiful iPad Pro will make a welcome addition to his tech cadre; Raphael certainly can’t get enough of his!

Sony Alpha 6700 Camera ($1500)

Superlative cameras have never been cheaper, and when it comes to remarkable value at an attainable price point, the Sony Alpha 6700 leads the pack. With a 26 MP sensor, AI-based subject recognition, 16-50mm zoom, and the ability to shoot 4K video, he will put Man Ray to shame with this versatile little camera.

Jack, our senior content manager, has recently begun shooting more photographs for us and he prefers to use the Sony Alpha 6700.

Available on Amazon!

Belstaff Leather Jacket

Trialmaster ($1795)

Invest in his comfort and his style with a quality leather jacket like the Belstaff Trialmaster. The silhouette of the Panther jacket hasn’t changed in years, so you can be assured the look will remain relevant for years to come. The tumble-finished, hand-waxed cowhide leather also makes it a much sturdier leather jacket than most.

Sterling Pacific 40L Cabin Travel Case ($2150)

As a regular luxury traveler, Raphael knows that there is no substitute for a quality suitcase. Recently, we partnered with Sterling Pacific to discuss their 40L cabin travel case. As part of that partnership, we carried out a thorough review of this luggage and found it to be an exceptional product.

Whether as a gift for yourself or for the jet-setter in your life, this suitcase could be a perfect addition to their travel trousseau and an ideal luggage option.

Cartier Tank Must ($3450)

Jack says: As an icon of not only horology, but also of design, the Cartier Tank has always been on my radar as a “grail watch”. The simple, elegant, and utterly timeless design pairs with so many varieties and combinations of clothing, making it an extremely versatile watch. The price is also an attractive factor, as many Tank Musts were produced in the 70s and 80s, meaning you can find an exquisite version on the vintage market for around $1500 – $3000. When compared to the price of similarly iconic watches, and when you consider how much wear you’ll get out of it, it’s a remarkably low investment AND cost-per-wear item that’s still valuable to treasure and eventually hand down as an heirloom piece. As a final thought, the quartz-powered Tank Must makes it a tremendous watch to travel with due to its reliability, and the almost silent movement (and lack of a seconds hand) means it feels and looks far more elegant. Invest in an additional strap to change out between light and dark colors for added bang-for-your-buck, or go with an expert-level forest green, oxblood, or gray strap for the ultimate “one-watch collection”.

Berkel Flywheel Slicer ($6600)

For the man who has everything and loves to eat,consider a manual flywheel meat slicer that adds a unique culinary twist to any kitchen space. Raphael enjoys this example from Berkel that offers several benefits that make it a standout choice for both home and professional kitchens.

Made with high-quality materials and attention to detail, these slicers are not only durable but also add a touch of elegance to any kitchen. Their vintage design is both functional and aesthetically pleasing, making them a conversation piece.

Using a Berkel slicer can enhance the flavor and texture of the food. The sharp blade and precise slicing help maintain the integrity of the food, ensuring that each slice retains its natural juices and flavors. This results in a superior taste experience that is sure to impress guests and elevate any meal.

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Video Transcript [Lightly Edited for Clarity]:

[Raphael] Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette, today at Amara Hark Weber Bespoke Shoemaker in St. Paul. Hi, Amara!

[Amara] Hello, welcome!

Why do you care about bespoke shoes?

[Raphael] Thank you! So, I was always curious, why do you care about bespoke shoes?

[Amara] Personally? Wow, that’s a good question. Why do I care about them, or why do I make them?

[Raphael] Well, why do you care about making bespoke shoes? Is it something… What about it speaks to you? Why did you choose it? How did you get here?

[Amara] That’s a really good question. Okay, I’m going to do my best to answer. And this will be my answer today; it might be different than yesterday; it might be different than tomorrow. But, I think that making shoes is one of the hardest things that I’ve done and I tend to gravitate towards and be drawn to things that are difficult. And I also think that the process of making shoes is really singular, and it’s really long and a lot of it is hidden, very private, and that kind of… The closeness of the relationship that I have with the work, you know, like physically is appealing. And I’m able to make something for individuals that is totally unlike any other object that they would have to hold, much less wear in their body. So, I think that, you know, the process is part of it; the materials are part of it; and the relationship that I have with my clients are part of it.

[Raphael] That’s certainly like a mix of crafts, art, and also the client interaction with the customer. So some might say you know, “Hey, bespoke shoes are really elitist?” Are custom shoes elitist?

Are custom shoes elitist?

[Amara] That’s a good question, too. I guess it depends on who you ask and who’s giving the answer. I don’t think so, but I will say that they’re expensive and there’s not many people who do this. And so, on the one hand, you know, there’s a lot of ways to talk about payment and the cost, which is you know paying a living wage for a person living in the United States; the cost of materials; hourly, the cost of hourly wage. We don’t really make that much money actually.

[Raphael] No, that’s the point, right? Once you, if you’re curious about how a pair of shoes is made, you know, check out this series that we’re doing or we did in the past, and you see how many hours… Like on average, how many hours do you put in?

How long does it take to make bespoke shoes?

[Amara] You know, I say between 40 and 100 hours but I say like working time is one thing but also interfacing with clients is another thing; and then upkeeping the workshop is a pain. When you’re not just doing the shoes but you’re also maintaining a workshop, and it’s also a business.

[Raphael] Yeah. You have to sharpen your knives. Sometimes, you have to think about it, right? And customers come in with special requests and all that stuff.

[Amara] But, it is like the making time itself is, I say, 40 to 100 hours depending on the pair.

[Raphael] Yeah, so even if you charged just for the labor cost, you know, if you charged $40 an hour, we’re talking $600 to $4,000 just in labor. And materials for smaller you know workshops like you, you have to buy through a distributor, through a wholesaler. So, they want to make a living; they mark it up compared to what, you know, an industrial factory may get for the same.

[Amara] I was just talking to someone about this. Our material costs have gone up significantly in the past couple years. Like it’s kind of startling when you sit down and like to do the math of how everything is working out. Yeah, but whether it’s elitist or not, I mean, you know, there’s not many people who do it, so you have to be driven to find a custom shoemaker. And I don’t feel like I’m elitist. I really strive to make shoes and I do make shoes for all kinds of people—from folks who have orthopedic situations or their feet that don’t fit off-the-rack shoes, to people who are doing heavy labor and they need something that’s going to hold up, to people who are wearing like walking on carpets all day and not very hard on their shoes at all, and everything in between. And so, because of that…

[Raphael] I mean, you know, if you make minimum wage, you probably have to save up money. You know you cannot… It has to be a very conscious effort where you’re like, “I want this for my feet. I want this for the process.”

[Amara] Well, you know, I heard somebody talking about the history of cowboy boots and, historically, a cowboy would and could expect to pay about a month’s wages for a pair of shoes, for a pair of boots; and that was considered normal because it’s a tool. And so, I think that, you know, that’s kind of accurate still, yeah?

[Raphael] You mentioned not many of these bespoke shoemakers are still in business in the US. Maybe there never have been. How did you get into this?

How did you start making shoes?

I always say that this job chose me.

AMARA HARK WEBER

[Amara] Well, the short answer, I always say that this job chose me. But, I started when I was getting my MFA at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago and I was in a program for graphic design actually. I was a photographer and a writer previously, and I was in a very bad car accident and I had a head injury, and I was having a lot of physical and cognitive issues that did not allow me to continue with photography or writing. And I took a shoemaking class, and I was able to do it. And it’s partially because I come from a family of bookmakers, so I’ve always worked with my mom as a paper maker. She’s like she’s pretty astounding in her own right. But, I’ve always worked with book arts, and like I know how to bind books, and it’s kind of similar to making shoes in that you’re seamlessly covering an object. And so, the one kind of memory that I didn’t lose in my accident was my muscle memory, and so my body could do these actions even if it took my brain a while to, like, you know, assimilate everything. And so that’s how I started.

[Raphael] So, now, bespoke shoes and factory shoes are just so different. The amount of time it takes, the way they’re made. One thing I found interesting is leathers. You know, I’ve noticed recently things like, you know, cordovan has gotten really expensive and people often like them on ready-to-wear shoes. But, what are leathers that you like, you know, for bespoke shoes and what’s the difference there? And were you maybe like, “Well, this may be great for ready-to-wear shoes, but for bespoke shoes actually not the best option.”

What leather works well for bespoke shoes?

[Amara] Well, a great example is cordovan. I think that one of the beautiful parts about handmade footwear is the leathers that we use. They’re really super beautiful and they have a lot of characteristics. They don’t have a finish over them. The leathers that I choose use just transparent dyes, and so the characteristics of the actual leather are apparent.

[Raphael] Top grain, unsanded, non coated. Because with so much labor cost, it’d be foolish to use anything but the most premium materials.

[Amara] Yeah, and also, too, like you get more beautiful objects. But, it’s a more pleasurable experience for myself. Very selfishly, using wonderful materials is pleasurable. But, I’m not a factory, and so I’m making small objects and I have the luxury of cutting them out like a larger piece of leather; whereas a factory doesn’t have that luxury and so they might be more apt to use a corrected grain. I don’t use any corrected grain. So, you know, the leathers that we use are a little bit different than factory leathers. Every project is a little different so, you know, when I use a lot of different kinds of leather, it always starts with: How are you going to wear your shoes and where are you going to wear your shoes? Because, if you’re…

[Raphael] Purposeful.

[Amara] Yeah, wearing them in St. Paul, Minnesota and you do a lot of walking outside all year round, this going be very different wear on the footwear than if you’re living in…

[Raphael] Palm Beach, Florida?

[Amara] Palm Beach, Florida or Amarillo, Texas; and you are wearing them sometimes or you are there for an occasion, if it’s for a wedding, for whatever. I mean, like, so that it starts with function; and then we kind of, you know, plan backwards. So, I use a lot of different kinds of leather. The cordovan that we use is also not corrected and doesn’t have any top coat on it, so that’s one of the things that I always tell clients: That the cordovan that we use requires a lot of maintenance in order to keep the sheen that’s so beautiful. And cordovan as a material, it’s really tough and really hearty and it’s kind of challenging to work with. I don’t mind it. You know, like, the struggle is kind of fun sometimes.

[Raphael] You like hard things. Difficult things.

[Amara] Glutton for punishment. But, you know, the first time I made a pair of cordovan shoes, of course, I tested it on myself and I was like, “Wow! These are so beautiful,” and then I noticed that as I was wearing them, the sheen was different on each one. Cordovan has kind of like a nap, kind of like corduroy, and I didn’t realize that the first time I used it because, figuring it out on my own. And I had, you know, cut it for economy and the vamps were going different directions and they reflected light differently; and I was like, “Oh,” you know, amateur mistake. But, that is a factor. You know, like on a factory shoe, the cordovan is going to be more corrected. It’s going to have a glaze over the top. The next thing I noticed was that I walked through, like I walked out to my car, and there was dew on the grass, and like little specks of water made little specks on my shoes. And I was like, “Oh, my gosh!” And I didn’t like upkeeping my shoes. Because it’s just not what I choose to spend my time.

[Raphael] You do enough work already.

[Amara] Yeah, I would rather spend my time maintaining, polishing my new pair of client shoes than like maintaining my own. So, the cordovan actually got really beautiful and really cool because it got really matte. It was very different than what one would expect from like a factory cordovan. But, what did not change was that like the nap was always different so they always appeared to be a slightly different color. So, you know…

[Raphael] I think cordovan also, as you walk, like in the break, you really can see it and it’s almost a bit like it kind of stretches a little more, I find, than others.

[Amara] Yeah, it has a very different… Like every animal, every leather is going to have a very different way that it breaks, and cordovan is very particular in how it does it. It’s much more like weighty.

[Raphael] Would you say that, you know, because cordovan is a bit more unique in that way, it’s almost better suited to ready-to-wear shoes. It conforms more to your foot versus, if you have a bespoke last, you know, this is already made to fit you perfectly. Now, you put the cordovan on, now it gets a little more stretchy and it’s a little bigger.

[Amara] Yeah, you know, well, my cordovan shoes actually shrunk, but I left them outside in a rainstorm. And so, mine totally shrunk and they did not want to grow back. So, that, I can say, like, if you leave your shoes outside in a rainstorm, that’s, again, don’t to that. I didn’t know it was gonna rain. I just totally forgot them outside. But, I think that, you know, I don’t know the particulars of how cordovan is treated like for a factory condition. But, I do know that they are different shells, usually than what I would have access to.

[Raphael] Do you like using Horween, which is like kind of the gold standard?

[Amara] Yeah, it’s beautiful. 

[Raphael] But there’s so many. There’s Japanese...

[Amara] Yeah, there’s so many different tanneries. Argentina, also. There’s different places that make it. Every tanner is going to be a little bit different. But, you know, if someone says, “I want a cordovan shoe,” I always say, “Why do you want a cordovan shoe?” and sometimes that answer is: I want something that is expensive; and, if that is the reason, then I would tend to try to steer someone towards something else. If they want like, take alligator, I mean, that is going to… If you’re looking for something that looks expensive, people know that alligator is expensive. It wears hard, like, I mean, it’s like hard-wearing. If you want cordovan because you like the ripple of the wrinkle, you want to do the maintenance, or you know, any of those things, great.

[Raphael] You want your customer to be aware of what they are getting into.

[Amara] I don’t want somebody to like, you know, walk through a, you know, through the rain and all of a sudden their shoes get specks on them; and they get really upset because it’s very expensive; and then, you know, that would be horrible. You know, that’s kind of heartbreaking.

[Raphael] So, you mentioned alligator and, yes, people know it’s expensive, but I think there’s also the connotation that it’s like a delicate leather. What’s your experience?

What’s your experience with alligator leather?

[Amara] I also know that it has that feel and I have the total opposite experience. For me, my alligator shoes are super tough, and I think that, you know, the past five years or so I’ve started using a lot more exotic leather—which would be, for example, ostrich, alligator, caiman. Anyways, that’s a whole other thing. Stingray. What else do I use? Commonly, shark and all those others. They all have very very different characteristics in terms of how they look, but they wear so hard. They just have a life to them, and they’re beautiful.

[Raphael] Like leather sometimes?

[Amara] Yeah, fish leather is like very thin, but it’s like very strong.

[Raphael] Lizard? What’s your experience with lizard?

[Amara] Lizard, I’ve used it just a couple of times and it stretched a little more than I was anticipating, when I was blasting. But, it was really cool. It was beautiful and so, again, like there’s going to be a difference between something that’s old and dried up and something new and very nice. Someone gave me some lizard that was not super easy to use because it was kind of old. But, I find like the exotic leathers are really… They’re distinct looking in terms of pattern, but they just wear hard and alligator is tough.

[Raphael] Would you say, like, elephant tough?

[Amara] That’s the toughest thing. But it’s like distinct and it’s beautiful. Everything is tagged, you know, it’s not like… There’s nothing under the table, you know.

[Raphael] They all like CITES certified where it’s a clear chain. Some people say like alligator leather is, you know, the most kind of tracked leather. So, you can truly see where did this exactly originate, you know? It wasn’t just poached.

[Amara] No, for sure not. If people want the tags like anything that is restricted, it comes with a tag and then I can give the tags to that person. Absolutely. So, yeah, I have no interest in, you know, under the table, like back alley leather dealing. Because I want to stand like I want to be able to stand up for what I’m using and, if I don’t know where it comes from, I can’t do that.

[Raphael] And then there’s the classic calf leather, you know? Box calf or baby calf. Do you ever work with regular cow or bullhide?

What’s your experience with cowhide?

[Amara] Yeah, I’m actually making a pair of shoes or a pair of boots right now that are shark and American bison. And it’s like a shrunken bison. They’re just…

[Raphael] It’s a very kind of three-dimensional texture.

[Amara] Super cool, yeah. It’s really beautiful. It’s super beautiful. Yeah, I use those, too.

[Raphael] And, I think, I would say, recently in the whole leather goods industry, the whole veg tan has become more popular. Some companies you know built a whole brand around it and argue that veg tan is best and is high quality. What do you think about veg tan versus chrome tan for shoes?

Is veg-tanned or chrome-tanned better for shoes?

[Amara] Well, I think that there are really good vegetable tan leathers, and there are really good chromium tan leathers. And I wouldn’t be hazard to say I prefer one over the other because there’s great ones and there ones that are less maybe fun to work with in anything. And so, for example, these are vegetable tan leathers, and it was lovely to work with. I’ve worked with vegetable tan leather that, when it’s wet, it kind of speckled a little bit, made me a little nervous. It dried fine. I use both and I don’t necessarily use them interchangeably, but I do use both of them.

[Raphael] Yeah, and you’re not afraid to be bold, right? Like this is a green, like olive green, with this like pink thread. You even dye the thread on your own to match the pink here. I was always like… If you polish those, you know, are you concerned about it?

[Amara] Yeah, well, my strategy for polishing those would be no different than any other shoe, whereby I would probably look for a green cream polish. Just kind of moisturize. I don’t usually bring my shoes up to a super high mirror shine, but you could certainly do that. Again, I don’t do tons of maintenance on my shoes. The leather is really nice. It should be good for a while. You can wear it really hard; and, obviously, if you want to spend time waxing and polishing, you can bring up the luster or you can just let it go and do its thing.

[Raphael] And I mean, one thing you mentioned with the leather, in a factory, things are either stamped out or laser cut, right? And the idea is to have a consumption that uses the entire skin or height. You’re more like, “Oh, I’ll pick the best one and make sure the nap goes the right way,” and like for alligator, I mean, it’s a lot more tricky to cut that because it actually has naturally different patterns, right? So, how do you go about that typically?

Learn the differences!

How do you create patterns with different leathers?

[Amara] About like laying out a pattern? Well, it depends on the animal. So, because every design is singular, I work with a client to figure out how, if it is an animal that has different patterns—ostrich is another example—there are some like focal areas that are very polka dot, some areas that are very like wrinkly, and some areas that are kind of in between. And you can use all those designs strategically and so that’s super fun, you know, to be able to use the natural characteristics of the leather strategically in your design process. 

[Raphael] Like ostrich, right? Like the leg ostrich.

[Amara] Yeah, the leg is totally different.

[Raphael] Looks very different than the regular kind of dotted… Most people think of the dotted part as ostrich. They don’t think about the leg part.

[Amara] Yeah, or like the flanks and the neck and stuff. They have a different pattern. Ostrich, too, is very soft, super tough, you know? It’s another great example of something that is very distinct looking and very, very tough. 

[Raphael] So, what about lining leathers? What’s your choice there?

What do you use for lining leathers?

[Amara] Well, that is something that I actually do use vegetable tan leathers. And I know that is not… Everyone has their own choices. I choose to use vegetable tan leathers.

[Raphael] Just because you don’t want the chrome salt residue to some get into the skin?

[Amara] Yeah, I mean, like that is a big part of it, but the trick is that I use a lot of colorful lining leathers, and I know from experience that some colorful leather will like bleed through onto your skin if you don’t wear socks, for example.

[Raphael] Especially if you have sweaty feet or if it’s really hot outside and your feet sweat. The friction, heat, moisture.

[Amara] Moisture, yeah. So, I’m super careful about when I use a lining leather that’s colorful. My lining leathers, the colorful ones are from Germany. And it’s like super top, eco-grade, orthopedic everything. It’s lovely to use. It’s lovely against the foot. In the summer, I personally don’t like wearing socks, so like this is what I choose to wear and that’s what I like. You know, you can have a red lining leather and your feet don’t come out pink at the end of to day… or they shouldn’t

[Raphael] I wear my boat shoes barefoot, but I have relatively like dry feet. I don’t know if someone has like more generally moist feet. I don’t know how that…

[Amara] Sweaty. I mean, one of my cow boot teachers, he always was like, you have to like coat the thread and wax. And he know said the inside of your shoes is like jungle conditions. It’s like moist, it’s warm, it’s dark. It’s like the perfect thing for bacteria breeding, which is kind of disgusting. But, like people just…

Your foot is kind of like your armpit. It sweats a lot.

Kind of gross. But, like, you know I don’t… Like, the shoes are all leather so I don’t personally like wearing socks that much. They squish my toes. And with my shoes, they really don’t stink because there’s no plastic in them. I mean, if you think about wrapping any area of your body in plastic, it’s going to sweat more, first of all, and it gets stinky after a while. And so, like that’s another with factory shoes is that there’s going to be plastic and paper somewhere in there, and so your body just responds to it as a body would respond; and it gets a little bit more moist and maybe a little more stinky.

[Raphael] I mean, the only area really where you use non-leather, maybe is the sole, right?

[Amara] So, these ones have rubber soles, yeah.

[Raphael] You have a bunch of… I mean, there’s obviously like Vibram soles and all kinds of stuff.

[Amara] All kinds of stuff.

[Raphael] For a bespoke shoe, I mean, there’s more alternatives. Walk us through. You have a bunch of cool stuff here.

[Amara] Bunch of piles of stuff. Again, when we started a design process for any project, one of the questions is how are you going to wear these shoes and where are you going to wear them? And so, if somebody’s working on concrete is different, as I mentioned, than somebody who’s walking on carpet all day or hiking in the woods; versus in living in New York City or someone who lives part of the time in New York City and part of the time in upstate, and they want something to go between. So, you know, soling can have a huge impact on your day.

[Raphael] But, you know, it’s also like, yeah, if you’re like you want a travel shoe where it’s like it’s good for rain. That can be a cool thing. I recently had like… I found like three pairs of shoes on eBay, and they were all like Gaziano & Girling. They were in good shape, they were in my size, and there were three of them, right? And two had leather soles, and those, I naturally gravitate more towards those. And so I ended up getting the third one, too. But, I wasn’t too sold on it. But, it had a rubber sole, and the rubber sole was basically all throughout. Actually, having worn it, I’m like, this is actually good. You know, if you asked me before, I would said, “Nah, I don’t know. Maybe, you know, classic leather sole. Maybe like even a toe tab,” but the rubber so can be really nice as a, you know, even a loafer or a travel shoe. The sound is different. The grip is different.

[Amara] The sound is different, yeah. Grip is different. The other thing that is really interesting and I didn’t realize this until I resoled a pair of my shoes that were leather sole first, and then I resold them as rubber, is that a rubber so has more memory of the last. So, over time a leather sole will tend to curl up a little more. You mentioned walking in the rain. A leather sole, as you as your foot bends and flexes at the joint, a leather sole, like leather remembers your movement, which is why leather shoes are so comfortable. They remember your body and how it moves. A leather sole is going to slowly move up, whereas a rubber so is going to keep that original shape a little bit. And so, if you are a person who doesn’t like those creases, one way to kind of alleviate that is to go for a rubber sole. Yeah, which I totally didn’t realize until I did that. And I personally like don’t love those creases.

[Raphael] Yeah. Who does?

[Amara] I mean. But, the fact is like that, they happen, you know? If you see a shoe that doesn’t have those, it’s not been worn.

[Raphael] It’s a natural material, exactly.

[Amara] Yeah, so those happen, but a rubber sole is just gonna keep that down because it’s not gonna have that memory.

[Raphael] I mean, you can actually iron them out.

[Amara] Yeah, I mean, like there are ways to deal with it. But, it’s like a thing that you have to do, yeah.

[Raphael] Okay, but, like, vibram, I think there’s, you know, the English ones… What are they called? Yes, exactly.

[Amara] [unintelligible] I have some of those back there, yep.

[Raphael] I think they’re heavier oftentimes, right?

[Amara] Yeah, they wear a little differently. And so, like one of the things… There’s some vibram in here. This is like the classic 100s, I think. They come in a couple colors. But it’s like, you know, it’s like kind of a classic grippy thing. You can have a separate heel cap so that you can have different heel heights, which can be convenient. But you can feel like there’s… This is pretty flat. It’s not super spongy. It wears hard. Like my partner wears a pair of boots that have these same soles; and he wears them hard, he wears them almost every day, and like, boy, are they ever wearing well. But, it’s, you know, like this is… it’s just kind of a classic rubber thing. Something that’s a little bit a similar in look but a difference in feel are these ones from Lactae Hevea in France, which are a lot more spongy and soft underfoot.

[Raphael] You can just see like that, how floppy, you know? Like, I mean, look at that how… Just the floppiness.

[Amara] And if you squish it… Yeah, I mean, it’s really super comfortable to wear.

[Raphael] It contracts, like you can see. Who’s standing on this…

[Amara] Yeah, so it would be great for a concrete floor. Also, it’s kind of similar to human cartilage and so, if you have knee or hip problems, these can be super super comfortable to wear. So, for example, these are going to be for those boots that I mentioned that are very rugged. But, the person who is ordering them is working on concrete and has sensitivity on the bottoms of his soles. So, this has like the same kind of like rugged look. It’s going to wear really well, it’s going to have traction, but it’s just softer and it’s going to feel really different.

[Raphael] Nice. Okay, so let’s say, you know, this is great for a boot and for commando soles, but let’s say I’m getting like this loafer made, what would you suggest if we were to go with…

[Amara] Like a rubber situation? Well, as you can see, I just made a pair of loafers with rubber soles. I like them. Again, this is a Lactae Hevea. They call them unit soles when the heel is connected. Same company, but a different pattern. So, there’s a couple different options. If you wanted to have a leather sole, you can put like a rubber half sole on it. It’s a little bit thicker. It’s not going to have the same sponginess. Or you could go for… There are leather soles that have rubber impregnated in here. So, there’s like a rubber section in the middle.

[Raphael] It’s funny because, typically, these are the soles that you see on the entry-level Goodyear or like Blake… It’s kind of funny. I’ve seen them. When I see that then I’m always thinking of like lower-end shoes, but it’s, you know… But, you can do it with bespoke. There’s nothing that…

[Amara] Well, you know, from the side, you can’t tell. So, like, for example, I have a pair of those that I wear for biking because it has the same look as like, you know, typical formal wear, like leather bottoms shoes. But then, I do have like the traction for riding my bike. So, you know, I feel like, for myself, there’s a time and a place for almost everything, and it’s just getting the right material for the right project. So, you know, something like this, this would make a great travel shoe. It’s going to flex really easily. It’s going to be spongy. It’s going to have traction if you’re walking in the rain, no problem.

[Raphael] This is 100% natural latex, right? Coming from like the milk on the tree in the Brazilian rainforest?

[Amara] Yeah, it’s a really cool… It’s a great company, and they have different colors. So, if you wanted, for example, green or red or whatever.

[Raphael] This looks more like crepe sole, right?

[Amara] Yeah, this is like your classic, what they call plantation crepe. This is laminated. You can see there’s four different layers here, and so, this is, again, really traction-y. It’s a similar material to the Lactae Hevea. But, it’s not poured into a mold obviously but it’s a different company yeah this is from a place in LA. But, these ones, I mean, if you think about like Clark’s in the 70s, that’s what they had. That’s what they kind of made. Plantation crepe. People always think, “What’s that?” and I say, “Clark’s in the 70s.” And they say, “Oh!”

[Raphael] Now, this is different. This is a lot softer, again.

[Amara] Yep, so that’s, again… Like these are the like Lactae Hevea sheets, and so you know, these again can be mixed and matched. This could be used as a, you know… It could be used in different ways or it could be used as a midsole. You know, if you do need a layer, that’s what I was kind of envisioning for these. Having these as a layer between different… As like a layer of sponginess essentially between different outsoles.

[Raphael] Oh, yeah! That’s interesting because, you know, most of the time, many of you look at the shoe factory video, right? They always show how they’re smearing like the cork paste in between. You use actual pieces of cork sheet, right? That you cut out?

[Amara] And put on a couple different things, yeah. Cork, wool, leather, at times. Yeah, again it’s like…

[Raphael] And you could also see putting this in?

[Amara] Well, this one, no, I wouldn’t put it in as like a fill, but like rather as like a midsole. So, like you can see right under here there’s like a white layer, so you can kind of build up layers in the soling.

[Raphael] Just get a midsole to get a little bit of… I had that once in a heel where there was a bit of foam. So, it was leather, foam, leather; and you could really feel it, how it would soften the impact as you walked.

[Amara] Yeah, and so that’s what I was kind of envisioning for these sheets. For, again, like somebody who has joint issues or working on concrete, etc.

[Raphael] Standing all day, getting… And it’s a natural material, but you get this kind of comfort. So, this is also not going to wear out.

[Amara] Yeah, it’s really… It’s super cool. Yeah, people think, “Oh, if it’s soft, it’s going to wear faster,” but that’s not the case. So, these are just different thicknesses of whatever, of plantation crepe.

[Raphael] And what do we got here?

[Amara] And these are Dr. Sole soles, and these come in several different models, but they are kind of popular right now. It’s what I have on my boots.

[Raphael] Hong Kong Shoe Parts Company. Original Dr. Sole Cork. Oil resistant.

[Amara] Yeah, so they have a lot of different kind of models. They’re popular right now amongst kind of heritage boot wearers. They’re a little on the heavy side. They’re tough though, and so, you know, if you have a more rugged boot, this is a great one. 

[Raphael] But, what is it? Doesn’t look like just cork. It looks like maybe…

[Amara] No, it’s cork and rub. It’s like a mix. Yeah, so a lot of times like one of the things that can be challenging about rubber or about using not leather as soling is the adhering it together because the fear, for me, is people’s shoes coming unlaminated. That’s a nightmare. And so all of these different materials take different processes to make them stick and so, you know, that is challenging. And the more you fold into your repertoire, the more testing you have to do to make sure it’s like going to not… That won’t happen. So, you know, my process for using the sole would be very, very different than for using the Lactae Hevea soles, even though they’re both like a rubber material. But, when you’re ordering these, like… I should say, you know, what the materials are and then you can figure out how to glue things or how to laminate them.

[Raphael]  And when you use leather soles, you go for the kind of, you know, the oak bark tan kind of…

[Amara] Yeah, yeah. And again, it depends, like, I’ve gone through phases of using different things. Factories change over time. My practice changed over time. What I’m aware of changes over time. My abilities. Yeah, so I’ve used a lot of different things, and there are you know pluses and minuses. But, yeah, a lot of it is, yeah, oak bark.

[Raphael] Well, and sometimes, it’s also like, you know, the factory can get out of business, but it’s like I looked at, like, kangaroo leather, for example, cause, as a lining, it’s extremely thin but really strong. But, then, you know, I did some research and I learned that, you know, in California, it’s actually illegal, right? And so I’m like,

“Well, probably California is always like a leader in the US for lots of stuff.”

So, maybe, you know, down the line, this is going to be legal all over the place. Maybe not good to invest in that now when there’s that part of it, right? So, you know, one thing that is often mentioned and it comes up with suits like Italian suits and English suits, you know, American suit. It’s similar in the shoe world, right? You have like the Austrian, Hungarian school of thought. The British. And then maybe like, you know, the Italian, French, German. Yeah, what do you think of these classifications?

What do you think of different shoemaking styles?

[Amara] Well, I will tell you this is my personal opinion is that, in the United States, we don’t have any of those classifications. So, we can kind of pick and choose what we want. But, I would say that, if you’re trying to figure out what those mean, I would think about climate, and the footwear has to follow the climate. And so…

[Raphael] Statistically, it’s a bit like, you know, if you look at old houses in the US, right? I live houses built in 1901. You look, it has like all these different… It has a bit of Victorian here; a bit of, you know, Neo-Greek Revival; a little bit, you know, neoclassicism; a bit of art nouveau. Like, it’s just all mixed. Sometimes there is some art deco in there. Is it…

[Amara] Yeah, makers can kind of do that. You know, for better and for worse, we don’t have those kinds of long-standing traditions and we have a very varied climate.

[Raphael] Like the Norvegese, right? That’s what they call it in Italy? Norwegian welts? What would you call it?

[Amara] Well, this is just a stitch. I mean, this is just like a braided stitch. So, this is nothing fancy. But, I would say that, like, thinking about footwear, English, like my teachers were English or English style or English trained, and England has always been kind of the center for menswear; and so if you think of like classic suits, also classic footwear, it generally maybe would be an English. That would be kind of an English thing, but England is kind of stormy and rainy and so their shoes have to be robust and well-built, and they have to last through bad weather, like wet weather. So, they’re generally pretty well-built. Same thing with German shoes. Like, it’s cold and kind of, like… You know, there’s four seasons, and so it’s like well-built. But, like, they’re German-engineered and Germany has an orthopedic trade.

[Raphael] Yes, huge orthopedic trade.

[Amara] Yeah. which also impacts the style of footwear being made there. It’s very…

[Raphael] Sometimes, they’re not very… Like I look at them and they’re not very attractive, right, to my eye. But, in Germany, people love them in a way.

[Amara] So, well, if you think about the design, maybe the design is following the function; whereas, an Italian shoe or French shoe is a little bit more southern, is warmer, and often more elegant.

[Raphael] Like the Austro-Hungarian wood peg sole, triple sole, larger brogues. Like the holes, everything.

[Amara] Yeah, but like, really, like ergonomics. And so, one of the things that… I’ve used lasts from all of those places, and it’s really interesting because I’ve learned a lot about fit and style. I think, like, the hard way. But, by looking at the lasts, German lasts are really comfortable and part of that is, underfoot, they’re really curvy. And so , Italian like…

[Raphael] They also have like the toe spring, right? 

[Amara] Yeah, more toe spring.

[Raphael] More toes spring so, when you walk, you naturally have that spring built-in, which is a lot of French or some English are elegant. They’re super flat, and that’s why people all start using the toe tap. So, it doesn’t wear so quickly

[Amara] But, the other part of having a flat, having more or less toe spring is having a thicker sole. So, a lot of those soles are a lot thicker, so they’re not going. If it was flat, you’d just clump; whereas if it’s thicker and you know there’s less movement, then you’ll roll; whereas, if you have a very thin sole, you’re able to move, like you still can bend at the joint, if that makes sense. And so, that allows different styles to happen, you know? It’s interesting to like think about how design and functionality are, you know? Work together or don’t. Because you can get some pretty clumpy shoes pretty quickly if you’re using the, you know, too thick of sole with the wrong toe spring or whatever.

Do you have a house style?

[Raphael] So, do you have a house style? If someone just comes to you and says, “Hey, make me…”

[Amara] “What’s your style?” Yeah, I don’t know. I feel like I’m kind of like a jack of all trades. I mean, I don’t want to make a shoe that I don’t find attractive, and I want to be interested in what I’m making.

[Raphael] You have a wide spectrum. Like, you do women’s shoes, you do men’s.

[Amara] I do different things.

[Raphael] And you are artistic. So it’s not just classic Oxford, Derby, brown, black. You do a lot of…

[Amara] No, I do a lot of different things. Yeah, and that’s like a blessing and a curse. You know, jack of all trades and master of none. I think that, in some ways, if I could just like pick a lane and stay in it, I would be able to move forward more quickly. But, I enjoy doing a lot of different things. Everything is always… Like you’re always on your toes. And I think that, hopefully, like long term, I have a like a wider understanding of footwear, generally. And we’ll be able to help my clients, who are like, “Oh! I want a black Oxford,” or “Oh! I want to boot that I have to wear on concrete;” you know, “I have foot problems,” for example.

The goal is that I have a deep understanding, so I’m able to work with people in a productive way and not, you know, just have one thing that I do and that’s what I do.

What’s something you wish your customers knew better?

[Raphael] What do you wish your customers would, you know, understand more of or better that would make your life easier? 

[Amara] That would make my life easier?

[Raphael] Or just, you know, lead to a better product overall?

[Amara] Yeah, that’s a good question. I don’t totally know. Like, I wish that people understood kind of the physicality of this job. And a lot of people, I think, compare my work or handmade shoes to factory shoes and are like, “Oh, wow! this like a factory shoe!” And I always feel like factories try to do what we do. Like, our shoes should be leading the way and factories try to catch up. We’re able to be nimble and to pivot really quickly and, um, that is super freeing. And so that’s one thing that I wish that people, you know, that would understand is how, um, skillful handmade, like how many skills are involved, and, um, and that it’s not going to like, it’s, it’s different materials, different processes. It’s just a different thing than a factory shoe, and I think that because the end product can be very beautiful, people think like, “Oh, it’s like factory-made.” But it’s better, and it’s different, and it’s just, it’s like a different object entirely, you know.

Where do you draw inspiration from?

[Raphael] Where do you draw inspiration from?

[Amara] Oh, everywhere!

[Raphael] What are some like, are there Instagrammers you follow…

[Amara] Yeah, sure. I mean, like so, in terms of technically making, like fact is I’m from Minnesota, and I never even saw a handmade shoe till I made one myself, much less wore one. So, I’ve since like travel and visit and try to be as open as I can and like put as much into the world so I can, hopefully, get us much back, you know. Um, on Instagram, I’ve learned a lot of like technical things, like I really appreciate seeing how people make things, even if they’re just showing the most perfect day.

[Raphael laughs]

[Amara] You know, like, that’s the fact people show their beautiful stuff… 

[Raphael] That’s Instagram in general, right?

[Amar] That’s, yeah, like that, you know, it’s anything you show…

[Raphael] It’s like you look at, and you’re like “Oh man, everyone is here on a vacation and starting the Lamborghini.”

[Amara] Everyone has like their perfectly spaced nails.

[Raphael] And then you look at my life, and you know, what am I doing wrong?

[Amara] My nails are all slightly… 

[Raphael] It can evoke these feelings. They’re not healthy, really.

[Amara] No, I mean, well, I totally know, like, we have good days and bad days. Like we’re craftsmen, and so like, I try to be realistic about that in what I portray but I know that not everybody is like that. The other thing is like some people just don’t have an eye, and so they might be really proud of what they’re doing and not see that everything is really crooked. For example, you know, whatever, we’re all different places, but I learn a lot of like technical things from Instagram, but I think, like in terms of like color and design and like ideas and wear, I mean it all has to do with movement.

And so, I’m an active person and I move my body, like I swim, I’m outside, I have little kids that are learning to walk ,so watching them learn to walk and how they move their body is fascinating. Last spring, I did like a residency at the University Arboretum, where once a month, I would go and spend a day just in the plants looking at how the folds and joints kind of come together, like what lines and curves look like on different forms. Because, again, it’s like three-dimensional and it’s all curved, just like shoes, you know. They kind of come together in interesting ways and have like incredible color combinations, just like nothing gets more wild than plants. Like they’re just so wild and cool.

inspiration comes from

Everywhere

Am and I read a lot and listen to a lot of books, and so like I think like I get ideas, and I think about, I think about the hows of what I do, and like where I am as like a human in the universe at this moment of space-time, you know, from like being intellectually stimulated in some way, so you know, you have to be open. Yeah, I try to be very open, but of course, you can’t catch everything, but yeah inspiration comes from everywhere. Yeah, the beautiful world we live in. 

[Raphael] You know, when it comes to factory versus bespoke, right, in factories, I typically see plastic lasts in bespoke workmanship, I often see wooden lasts. Now, I met with Saskia Wittmer through an event by The Sartorial Club, and she mentioned, you know, she’s like, “Well, I like plastic lasts because with changing humidity, they don’t change the shape.”

[Amara] Such a good, that’s such a good point, yeah. 

[Raphael] So, in your studio, I’ve seen both. I’ve seen plastic last, I’ve seen wood lasts. So, how do you decide what you work with and… 

[Amara] Yeah, um well, again it’s like, it’s ‘the preference is in the maker’ and also how the maker procures their lasts. When I first started I was buying vintage lasts, and then working with the factory to have them graded and multiplied, and those factories only made plastic lasts. And I was like, “Fine, great, whatever,” but as I worked more and I had more variants and sizes, so you know, like size 48 plus down to like size 35, 34, like that’s a huge range. And like a really huge plastic last is really heavy, and so I, um, I realize that like for larger sizes I maybe prefer wood. Also, I do a lot of alterations on my lasts, and I just prefer to sand on wood than sand on leather. It’s like a more pleasurable experience, so, um yeah, I use, I use both but usually, when I’m ordering lasts I go for wood just because it’s a little bit more lightweight, and um, and it’s more pleasant to work on, and I do a fair amount of work on all of the lasts.

[Raphael] And you know sometimes, you see very few people that do like the old-school way where you start with a block of wood, and then kind of work it out by, you know, by hand and stuff.

[Amara] Yeah.

[Raphael] I mean, that just means it takes a lot longer… 

[Amara] It takes longer.

[Raphael] You don’t necessarily get a better result? 

[Amara] Yeah, I mean there’s a, I can understand the beauty of that, and I also know that for myself, I end up kind of, I started out, I’ve done all these different kinds of things, and so when I started really working hard on like altering lasts in earnest, just cut cutting them up, redoing everything, like all the different stuff, trying to figure out what I liked to work with, what shapes I was drawn to, what shapes I could make, what shapes how shapes functioned, um, I quickly realized that a lot of the shapes that I was coming up with were pretty similar, and a lot of the shapes that I was buying larger last from and carving them down to were pretty similar, and so I for me I realized like there’s not necessarily a net benefit in like starting from scratch every time. It’s more economical and also more dependable for me to have a kind of um like a blank is how you call it, it’s like a template, essentially, that I’ve worked with factories to come up with. So, it still is like my design overall, but I’m working with last makers to make these lasts that I understand how the curves are, and then looking at someone’s foot and their heel-to-ball, ball-to-toe proportion, at their arch, at whatever I can alter the last in a more like more intelligent way.

[Raphael] Yes, it fits them better.

[Amara] It fits them a little better, and also too, be more confident about if one foot is larger than the other or not, that I’m making them that like it’s going to be right, whereas if I were making them both from scratch every time, I just don’t think I would trust myself to make, to make everything exactly the same. I think it would be super super hard for me to do that. 

Which shoemakers do you look up to?

[Raphael] No, it makes perfect sense. So who are some people in the industry or maybe, you know, that’s it changes, but people you look up to, where you’re like, “Man, I like the way they do this, or I like the way they do that.” Or, “I’d love to go and learn from them based on, you know, the output that you see. 

[Amara] Yeah, well, you know that, um, that depends on a lot of different things, like there are so many people who are so much more experienced than I am that I look up to in certain ways. In the United States, Marcel, of course, one of my teachers has been really generous with information with me, and he also has little kids, which like, for me, has been… 

[Raphael] Relatable? 

[Amara] Relatable, and also like, I don’t know, he’s just, he’s been really really generous with me, and I’ve learned so much from him and spending time with him. Lee Miller down in Texas. He is super generous with information also, and I think like a lot of people think about Lee, and they think, like, “Man that’s the life I’d like to live,” because he’s got a, he’s so skilled, he’s so generous, he has, um, a good business, he has like a strong, like he’s just has a really strong he’s a craftsman, business is working, like, and he, like, runs and plays guitar, and is so nice. And like all of those things are all enviable, you know, like that’s just lovely. And so those are two people that are close that I think of right away that I just admire a lot. Um… 

[Raphael] Maybe someone that you’ve never worked with? Like who are some people who you’re like, “No, I never met them, but I  think their work is cool.”

[Amara] Yeah, Nor Yuki from Japan. He was just here in the United States, like I really admire him. Um, his craftsmanship is just impeccable, his ideas are cheeky, and he’s making artwork and making really amazing shoes, and he’s also, like, sharing information and teaching. And so, like, those are all three things that I strive for is like being generous and making shoes that are smart and a little bit funny, hopefully, and, you know, sharing information because that’s how everybody improves, you know like that’s, that’s the goal. So people who kind of imbibe that attitude I enjoy. I know that, like, the culture in the UK is really generous with information, and so that’s really awesome to know, like, there are folks that I can contact there and that I have contacted that I’ve never even met. I just contact them, and they share all of this information, which is just like so generous and so meaningful because I’m so far from anybody here, you know. Like, I’m pretty isolated, and so to know that there’s a community far away, that is, you know… 

[Raphael] Supportive. 

[Amara] Supportive and helpful. It’s just unbelievable. It’s the blessing of the computer age, you know. [Laughs]

[Raphael] Awesome! Well, thank you very much for your time. I appreciated it!

[Amara] Yeah. 

[Raphael] Yeah, and I look forward to working with you with more shoes in the future.

[Amara] Well, let’s hope that, let’s hope they turn out. [Both laugh] Thank you. It’s always a pleasure to see you. 

Do you own bespoke shoes? What do you like most about the process and the end result of bespoke shoes? Let us know in the comments!

Resort Attire, as you might expect, refers to the unofficial dress code of clothing that typifies resorts, be they in vacation destinations or just the ritzy parts of town. Unlike conventional dress codes, men’s resort wear entails a very wide range of formalities, and what you wear when will be very dependent upon precise circumstances. 

In this guide, we will define exactly what Resort Wear is, where you will be expected to employ it, the elements that constitute it, and how you can prepare a stylish ensemble that will make you the talk of the town. 

What Resort Attire Is

Why It Exists

Resort wear is a dress code that ensures a certain standard of attire for guests. It suggests a dress code that balances formality with the relaxed atmosphere of a vacation setting in a warmer climate. It fundamentally consists of smart, well-put-together clothing that respects the upscale ambiance of a resort while acknowledging the tropical or seaside environment. 

This dress code suggests a smart, casual look that’s comfortable yet polished, suitable for most activities at a resort such as dining, socializing, or exploring. But while guests are encouraged to dress nicely, traditional business or evening wear such as dark suits or tuxedos would be excessively formal and out of place. Instead, lighter fabrics, cheerful colors, and a more casual yet sophisticated style of dressing are appropriate for resort settings.

Balancing Formality

The term Resort Attire can be somewhat nebulous, as interpretations of resort wear may vary from one establishment to another. However, it is prudent to consider the level of luxury and formality inherent to the venue when selecting appropriate attire.

Generally, the more prestigious and opulent the setting, the higher the expectation for formal dressing will be. Consequently, guests should opt for more elegant and sophisticated clothing options to align with the elevated sartorial standards these establishments uphold, rather than casual or beach-appropriate garments such as board shorts that could be suitable in other areas of the resort like the beachfront or spa.

Where You Wear It

Resort attire is a versatile clothing style designed for the sophisticated traveler and is typically expected at upscale resorts, especially in tropical destinations. You’ll find resort attire appropriate for specialty restaurants, country club meetings, and even on some cruise lines during the daytime; accordingly, Resort Attire is sometimes called “Cruise Wear.” It strikes a balance between relaxed and refined, making it perfect for vacationers who want to look well-dressed without sacrificing comfort.

When packing for a destination that suggests resort attire, think of places like beachside bars, poolside cabanas, or yacht clubs where the atmosphere is laid-back but still maintains an air of elegance. Additionally, many warm-weather wedding receptions or outdoor corporate events may request resort attire to ensure guests are appropriately dressed for both the occasion and the climate. The key is to aim for clothing that is both functional for the setting—lightweight fabrics for warm weather, for instance—and stylish enough to reflect the upscale environment of the resort or event.

What Resort Attire Isn’t

Avoid These Common Resort Attire Mistakes!

1

Don't wear athletic attire

Outside of a gym or when exercising, athletic attire is too casual and inappropriate for Resort Attire. This includes, but is not limited to, gym shorts, t-shirts, track pants, sweatpants, joggers, and workout shorts. It is advisable to refrain from wearing t-shirts or tank tops; instead, opt for shirts that feature a collar, such as polo shirts—either with short or long sleeves— sport shirts, or light-colored dress shirts.

2

Establish the dress code for other casual clothing

The acceptability of attire such as golf khakis, shorts, or slacks paired with a polo shirt can vary by establishment. Therefore, it is beneficial to inquire about or ascertain the specific dress code of the venue in question.

3

Avoid very casual footwear

Footwear should also reflect the elevated ethos of Resort Attire; thus, the wearing of shower slides, flip-flops, or sandals should be confined to the beach or poolside locations. Athletic footwear, including tennis shoes or trainers, should be avoided. When selecting sneakers, it is prudent to opt for leather dress sneakers. Conventional leather dress shoes in hues like tan, or perhaps suede options in green or dark brown, are recommended. Black shoes, although classic, may convey an excessive level of formality for most Resort Attire occasions.

4

Don't be overdressed

Certain more formal or refined clothing elements may appear over-the-top in a resort setting. Cufflinks, plush neckties, formal shoes, and similar details may be acceptable in the evening but could seem stodgy during the day. Also, as a practical measure, avoid excessive layers, such as vests, waistcoats, and topcoats in most situations as they can be stifling and hot.

Daytime Resort Attire Garments

Keep It Casual and Cool

During the daytime, you will hopefully be spending most of your time eating al fresco, lounging by the pool, chatting with friends, or getting in a game of golf. Accordingly, expect daytime ensembles to lean more into casual styling, with an emphasis on staying cool and comfortable.

Shirts

Because you may or may not be wearing a jacket, your shirt is likely to become the centerpiece of your ensemble. Therefore, it is especially important that you select a vibrant but elegant option that adds personality while accounting for the realities of the hotter temperatures typical of resort and vacation areas. 

Linen Shirts

A staple of resort wear, linen shirts offer a breathable fabric that is ideal for warm climates. Their lightweight nature allows for air circulation, keeping the wearer cool. Linen shirts typically come in long and short sleeve variants, with a preference for pastel shades or white, which reflect sunlight and enhance the shirt’s cooling properties.

Polo Shirts

For a sportier look that still fits within the resort attire category, polo shirts are a great option. They are versatile and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. Polos made from performance materials offer additional comfort and moisture-wicking properties, which are beneficial in hot and humid environments.

Popover Shirts

Popover shirts are essentially a hybrid between a polo and a traditional button-up shirt. They typically have a four-button placket and can be found in various fabrics, including linen and lightweight cotton. This style offers a more structured look while maintaining the ease of a pullover garment. When curating shirts for a resort wardrobe, the key is to focus on breathable fabrics, comfortable fits, and a clean, well-groomed appearance. Patterns and colors can vary, but they should always maintain a certain level of refinement to adhere to the upscale nature of resort settings.

Should you wear

Neckwear?

Especially today, most types of neckwear are considered too formal for daytime resort settings unless you happen to be eating lunch in a more upscale restaurant. That being said, a sufficiently casual accessory, like a playful bow tie or a silk knit tie, can be worn if desired; opt for bright, fun colors and patterns.

Casual Silk Shirts

Silk shirts are the epitome of luxury within the resort attire spectrum, offering a sleek and smooth texture that drapes elegantly on the body. These shirts are inherently dressy due to the sheen and feel of the fabric but can be styled casually to fit the resort casual dress code, especially when they feature colorful prints. When selecting a silk shirt for a resort setting, opt for those with muted tones or subtle patterns to maintain an air of sophistication. While silk is less breathable than cotton or linen, it compensates with its lightweight nature and soft touch, making it suitable for evening events or cooler days. It’s important to note that silk requires careful maintenance to keep it looking its best, but its luxurious appeal makes it worth the effort for many resort-goers.

Aloha Shirts

Also known as Hawaiian shirts, Aloha shirts are recognized for their bold tropical prints and bright colors. While they are casual, selecting an Aloha shirt with a subdued pattern can align with the resort chic dress code. These shirts are traditionally made from silk or cotton and are designed to be worn untucked, offering a relaxed fit.

Trousers

Trousers are a fundamental component of the Resort Attire dress code, offering a blend of sophistication and relaxation suitable for upscale vacation environments. The right pair complements the breezy shirts typical of resort fashion, ensuring both comfort and style.

When curating trousers for a resort wardrobe, prioritize materials that offer breathability and movement. Especially during the day, stick to lighter shades to reflect the sun’s rays. The goal is to achieve a look that’s effortlessly chic, comfortable for all-day wear, and adaptable to the various activities that a resort setting offers.

Linen Trousers

A favorite for their breathability and lightness, linen trousers are synonymous with resort wear. They come in various styles, from straight-cut to more relaxed fits, and are available in an array of neutral and soft pastel colors that reflect the serene resort setting.

Chino Pants

Chinos are a versatile option that can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. Made from a lightweight cotton blend, they provide comfort without compromising on style. For a classic resort look, choose chinos in beige, navy, or light gray.

Classic Shorts

When temperatures rise, classic shorts become an acceptable and stylish choice within the resort attire category. Aim for a mid-thigh to knee-length cut to maintain a polished appearance. Pair them with a lightweight button-up shirt or polo to keep the look refined.

What about

Madras shorts?

Madras shorts are a vibrant and playful addition to the Resort Attire wardrobe, injecting a dash of color and pattern into the ensemble. Originating from the Madras region in India, this lightweight cotton fabric is known for its plaid patterns in various bright and pastel hues.

White or Light-Colored Jeans

A crisp pair of white jeans can also fit into the resort attire dress code, especially for cooler evenings. Opt for a slim-fit or straight-leg cut in a lightweight denim to ensure comfort and style.

Seersucker Pants

Seersucker fabric, known for its puckered texture, is another excellent choice for resort wear due to its heat-dissipating properties. Seersucker pants in classic stripes offer a preppy vibe that’s perfect for seaside resorts.

Shoes

Footwear is a critical aspect of the Resort Attire dress code, as it can define the overall tone of the outfit. The right shoes not only complement the look but also provide comfort for all-day wear in a resort setting.

When choosing shoes for resort attire, consider the activities you’ll be participating in and the level of formality of the venues you’ll be visiting. Always aim for a balance between elegance and practicality, ensuring your footwear choices enhance your overall resort experience while keeping you comfortable and stylish.

Loafers

Loafers are a classic choice that offers both comfort and style. Leather or suede loafers in neutral colors like brown, navy, or tan can easily be dressed up or down. For a more nautical feel, opt for a pair of boat shoes, which are specifically designed for seaside wear.

Driving Mocs

Driving moccasins, or driving mocs, are another excellent footwear choice for the discerning resort-goer. These slip-on shoes are designed with comfort in mind, featuring soft leather and a flexible sole. Their sleek design and practicality make them ideal for navigating the resort in style, whether you’re lounging or taking a leisurely drive. Available in a variety of colors and finishes, driving mocs can easily complement your resort attire, adding a touch of laid-back luxury to your look.

Boat Shoes

Also known as deck shoes, boat shoes are a timeless and functional choice for resort wear. They are characterized by their non-marking rubber soles with siping (thin slits) for traction, leather construction that can withstand saltwater, and lacing system along the sides for a snug fit. Boat shoes are typically worn without socks and pair well with shorts, chinos, or linen trousers, making them versatile for various resort activities from boating to dining al fresco. Their classic design, often featuring shades of brown, navy, or tan, provides a relaxed yet preppy look that is perfect for the laid-back elegance required in resort settings.

Leather Sandals

A pair of high-quality leather sandals is essential for resort wear. They should have a refined look, with clean lines and minimal embellishments. Choose a style that secures the foot well and provides support for walking long distances, whether you’re exploring the resort or heading to the beach.

Espadrilles

Espadrilles are the quintessential summer shoe, featuring a canvas or cotton fabric upper and a flexible sole made of esparto rope. They are lightweight and come in various styles, from slip-ons to those with ties that wrap around the ankle, adding a casual yet chic touch to any resort outfit.

Accessories

Accessories play a pivotal role in elevating and personalizing the Resort Attire look. They should be chosen with care to complement the outfit without overwhelming it. When accessorizing for resort wear, the key is to think understated and functional. Accessories should enhance your comfort and convenience while reflecting the leisurely spirit of your surroundings. Remember, the best accessories are those that blend seamlessly with your outfit, providing an effortless finish to your resort look. 

Socks

Resort Attire is one of the few Classic Style dress codes that allow you to go sockless, but your feet will thank you if you instead opt to wear no-show socks. They offer the same clean, casual appearance of eschewing socks but with reduced chafing and stickiness.

Watches

A watch is a subtle accessory that can make a statement about your style. For resort wear, opt for timepieces with a nautical or casual flair, such as those with a canvas or leather strap. If you’re planning on water activities, a waterproof watch is a must.

Sunglasses

A stylish pair of sunglasses is indispensable for any resort getaway. Not only do they protect your eyes from the sun, but they also add a touch of sophistication to your appearance. Classic shapes like aviators, wayfarers, or clubmasters are versatile options that suit most face shapes.

Belts

A belt can serve as a functional accessory to ensure a proper fit of your trousers or shorts, as well as a decorative piece. Choose a woven or braided belt for a relaxed look, or a classic leather belt for a more refined touch. The color of the belt should coordinate with your shoes for a cohesive look.

Scarves & Day Ascots

For a bit of flair, you could incorporate a lightweight scarf or foulard made of linen or cotton. For a dapper vintage appearance, consider a day ascot, also called a casual cravat. Choose one with a subtle pattern or in a solid color that completes your outfit.

Hats

To shield yourself from the sun while adding a fashionable element to your outfit, consider a Panama hat, a cotton or linen flat cap, or a fedora made from lightweight straw. These hats are both functional and stylish, perfect for a day spent outdoors.

Evening Resort Attire Garments

Formal Can Still Be Fun!

In general, evenings at resorts are more elevated and formal than the daytime. You will likely be enjoying fresh fare in a fine dining establishment, relaxing barside, or racking in your winnings at the casino. Accordingly, expect to incorporate more formal detailing into your outfits, including the addition of a jacket and more elevated accessories.

Jackets

As the sun sets, the question of whether to don a jacket as part of your resort attire arises. A well-tailored blazer can elevate your outfit, providing an extra layer of style for dinner or a night out. Opt for materials like lightweight cotton, linen, or a breathable wool blend that offers comfort without overheating. For those balmy nights, a light sports coat or an unstructured jacket can add a touch of formality while keeping things casual. However, always consider the event’s dress code and location; a jacket may not be necessary for more laid-back venues or tropical settings. The key is to ensure that your jacket complements your trousers and enhances your overall look without compromising on comfort.

Shirts

As a general rule, evening Resort Attire shirts should mostly be long-sleeve sport shirts or dress shirts, although if you prefer a more laid-back look, short sleeves are acceptable, provided they follow all stated dress codes. For the greatest versatility, opt for dress shirts made from cotton, linen, or silk in bold but elegant bright colors like pastels or with subtle patterns. A more open weave will help keep you cool even if the night turns sultry. 

Should I wear

Neckwear?

In most cases, a tie will always elevate your Resort Attire look, especially in more formal settings like a restaurant or casino. To match the whimsy of the location, consider fun and unique options, like silk grenadine, a knit, or anything with texture or a fun pattern.

Resort Attire Ready Neckwear from Fort Belvedere

Breezy and Elegant

Knit Tie in Solid Yellow Pale Silk

Let the Sunshine In!

The Flower of Summer

Orange Red Jacquard Bow Tie

Wear the Island Sunset!

Cool and Refreshing

Grenadine Silk Tie in Dark Blue

Ride the Wave!

Trousers

When it comes to resort attire for the evenings, classic menswear offers a variety of trouser options that blend comfort with style. In general, however, you should plan to wear long trousers to match the elevated formality and dignity of the evening. Linen pants are a perennial favorite, providing breathability and a relaxed fit perfect for warmer climates. For a more structured look, chinos in neutral colors such as beige, navy, or light gray can be both versatile and elegant. If the occasion calls for something slightly more formal, lightweight wool trousers offer sophistication without sacrificing comfort.

Dress Shoes

In the evenings, your Resort Attire shoes should always be close-toed and, ideally, lace-up or with a full vamp, such as a monk strap. For upscale dining at the resort, a pair of dress shoes such as oxfords or derby shoes may be required. Select a breathable material like perforated leather to stay comfortable in warmer climates. You could also consider a bold pair of shoes, like Spectators or white bucks.

Accessories

Accessorizing evening resort attire is all about striking a balance between elegance and ease. A leather belt matching your shoes can seamlessly tie your outfit together. Consider a statement watch or a simple bracelet to add a touch of sophistication to your wrist. For those opting for a jacket, a pocket square can introduce a pop of color or pattern without overwhelming the ensemble. Over-the-calf socks should always be worn if you’re wearing dress shoes, but they can be in bolder colors to suit the whimsy of the overall dress code. Remember, accessories should complement, not dominate, so choose pieces that reflect your personal style and the relaxed ambiance of your surroundings.

What about

Warm-Weather Black Tie?

“Formal” Resort Attire is distinct from Warm-Weather Formal Evening Attire, which is a variety of Black Tie.

Learn the Difference!

Conclusion

Curating the perfect resort attire is an artful blend of comfort, style, and situational appropriateness. Classic menswear for such occasions should offer a relaxed yet refined aesthetic, allowing for seamless transitions from daytime exploration to nighttime sophistication. By selecting the right trousers, deciding on jacket appropriateness, and tastefully accessorizing, one can achieve a look that is both effortlessly chic and perfectly suited to the resort environment. Remember, the key to nailing this sartorial challenge lies in the details and understanding that true style does not shout, but rather whispers with an air of understated confidence and timeless appeal.

Let us know in the comments about some of your favorite Resort Attire looks. 

Outfit Rundown

Raphael has donned a long-sleeved polo shirt with a collar, which he pairs with a tie to exhibit the full range of the ensemble. He could have easily skipped the tie and still looked impeccable. His jacket bears a resemblance to seersucker but stands out with its checkered pattern—a small yet distinct design that sets it apart from the conventional business suit.

The tie Raphael has chosen is a red and blue shantung, harmoniously echoing the blue hues of his jacket, while his pocket square features hand-rolled edges and x stitches, adding a touch of artisanal craftsmanship.

He’s opted for bold red pants that are reminiscent of Nantucket red but a shade darker, crafted from 100% cotton, making them ideal for warmer climates. To complement the white elements in his shirt and jacket, Raphael selected white buckskin shoes accented with red shoelaces, effectively tying the outfit together with the pants. It’s a statement look, and for those less inclined towards such vibrancy, he suggests that the same ensemble sans tie, paired with medium brown oxfords, would present an entirely different, subtler aesthetic, even with the red pants.

For socks, Raphael is wearing red and blue shadow stripe socks, which integrate the outfit’s color scheme. Sunglasses are an essential accessory for daytime wear, so he doesn’t overlook them. And for added style and protection against the sun, he recommends carrying a Panama hat, which not only looks stylish but also provides shade for the face.

Fort Belvedere

Shantung Striped Dark Red, Blue and White Silk Tie

shop here

Fort Belvedere

Dark Blue Linen Pocket Square with White Handrolled X Stitch

shop here

Fort Belvedere

Midnight Blue and Burgundy Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks

shop here

Transcript (Lightly Edited for Clarity):

[Jack] Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette. Today, I’m in London at the Arterton Showroom with my friend Anders Sundström. Anders is an expert in shoe polishing, and today, we’ll be ranking different shoe polishes. Anders, welcome to the channel!

[Anders] Thank you.

[Jack] Now, what we’re going to be doing is we’re going to be ranking polishes from top to bottom. We’ll be looking at wax polishes, so something that you would get in a tin that’s typically like a hard wax, versus a cream polish.

The ranking guides that we’ve got are quite whimsical. We’ve got at the top, “Shines Like A Diamond;” moving down to “Super Slick;” we’ll also have “Daily Gleam,” so something that’s very middle of the road; and then working down, we’ve got “Works In A Pinch;” all the way to “Rough As Dirt.”

1. Saphir Pâte De Luxe

[Jack] So let’s get started with the one that I think everyone knows: Saphir.

[Anders] So, Saphir is one of the most well-known brands out there and, first of all, they do really good chemistry. No doubt about it. And we should really start by looking at the the polishes.

So, first off, you would have the Saphir Pâte. This is the most well-known. It’s actually a soft wax polish— softer wax polish—consisting of more of the natural and mineral waxes, and they also use turpentine, which is a very important part of the chemistry of a good wax polish.

Because if you use mainly naphtha, you would actually lose some of the evaporation properties that are necessary for the speed of a high shine—when you build layers—because evaporation will speed up solidification of the wax, because it will draw energy and cool down the wax. It’s a very key part of the process of building layers.

So, the Pâte is actually a great product because it has… You have beeswax, your carnauba, you have montan waxes and you mineral waxes, and it’s a great mixture to create quite of a easy buildup layer, and I would argue that it actually has capacity to avoid, in a way, the cracking issue when you build spit shine.

Because, obviously, when you build a thick layer, you would potentially crack it when you flex. So, this is some of the issues you would run into when building spitshine. So, I would definitely rank that as a top one. Yeah, definitely, it’s a good, good polish.

[Jack] Are we talking absolute top tier or…?

[Anders] Yes.

[Jack] Fantastic.

[Anders] It’s one of the top tiers, definitely. It is a good product.

2. Saphir Mirror Gloss

[Anders] Now, they also have the Mirror Gloss. The Mirror Gloss is a hard polish, and if you compare those two, most who have worked with both will notice that the Mirror Gloss is actually very hard. And the idea with a Mirror Gloss is you want speed when building layers, which hardness is ideal.

The problem you’re going to have with Mirror Gloss, because obviously, you’re going to build layers fast, but what they did is that, similar to the Pâte is that you use about 50% naphtha and 20% turpentine. So, it’s a mixture of naphtha and turpentine; it’s not only turpentine. And then you add more of the harder waxes, which would be montan waxes. Now montan waxes have a great feature of shine that would be good; however, when you solidify a mineral-based wax, especially montan waxes, it will shrink.

[Jack] Oh, okay. So is that why when you get a tin of polish, sometimes the polish looks like it doesn’t fit the tin?

[Anders] Yeah, that is one, for example.

That has something to do with the evaporation of the solvents. But, if you put the wax polish on the leather, and as soon as the solvent evaporates and the wax film solidifies, it will start to shrink even after it’s dried. It has that chemical property.

Drawbacks of

Montan Waxes

And the problem you will run into, if you have a high content of the montan waxes, is the cracking of the wax layers over time. So, if you put the shoes in the wardrobe, they will crack even if you don’t use them.

[Jack] Interesting, okay.

[Anders] So, that’s one of the issues I’ve seen with a Mirror Gloss. One of the issues. Again, it is really efficient to build layers, yes, and it will create a good shine; but a good polish is not only a shine, it’s long longevity of the shine itself. So, that is one of my concerns with that product. Also, one of the big problems montan waxes is the high melting point.

So, some people who uses Mirror Gloss have a problem with that it doesn’t melt on your fingers when you want to speed build a shine because then, you need to, for example, apply multiple layers fast; you will run into to that kind of issue.

So, again, it’s a great product. It has some some good features. It has some problems. So, I would top rank it more towards the top-middle—The Super Slick. Yeah, again, a good product but it doesn’t really… I would say that the Pâte would be superior because it has some of those feature that create a generally good shine for longevity, which is more important than just looking good when you’re finished.

3. Saphir Pommadier

[Jack] Interesting. So, how would you rank the soft creams that Saphir offers?

[Anders] So, the soft cream, the Pommadier — again, a great product. The big feature of this is the pigmentation, I would say. That’s the niche. It has high content of pigmentation . It is as good as it could be bad because I seen a lot of users actually using it, and it creates almost a painted layer of pigmentations of over the grain, which almost ruined the shoe. It could be used well, it could be used not so great.

I would also say Super Slick for the Pommadier. It’s a good cream, it has nourishment, it has great shine potential, it has good nourishment properties, and definitely a good shine. Definitely, super slick.

4. Boot Black Shoe Polish

[Jack] Great! Moving on. We’ll come to another brand that is definitely within the echelon of specialist shoe care, would be Boot Black.

[Anders] So, Boot Black, the Japanese brand. Really interesting brand. They have a good polish that uses turpentine, it uses carnauba wax, and I would assume mineral waxes. I don’t know their formula by heart, but yes, it’s a good polish.

The problem I have when I’ve played with it is that it’s a bit grainy. It has a tendency to be a bit grainy—which is tendency of, typically, when you either haven’t fully solidified it properly after filling. Because they need a cooling process that is a bit delicate, and if you don’t cool it properly, it will not gel properly. The wax blend will not gel properly, and you can have grain issues.

[Jack] Are you talking about during manufacturing?

[Anders] Yeah, during manufacturing, correct. So, that is some of the concern I have with that product.

Obviously, you can do a good shine. You could use it to do a mirror shine, of course. So, you could build layers with it, but because of the grain structure, it hasn’t properly blended together to proper gel—wax gel. So, that’s why I would maybe put in Daily Gleam. Maybe mid.

[Jack] That mid tier? Yeah, okay.

[Anders] Because that grainy structure has some issues.

[Jack] Yeah, I can understand.

5. Boot Black Artist Pallete

[Anders] But, it’s an absolutely good polish, of course. I mean, if we look at Boot Black, their absolute best product is the Artist Palette.

[Jack] Great! So, what about Boot Black’s cream?

[Anders] So, the cream in Boot Black is their herald product. Literally, the best product in their assortment, and I think that’s widely known also. When it comes to a good cream polish, when we rank a good cream at the top, you can’t really compare to a polish, obviously, when it comes to shine because, when you build a cream, you value not only shine but you also value waterproofing, you also value nourishment and pigmentation. So, it a cream is very different it’s like comparing apples and pears when it comes to, obviously, polish.

Well, this cream from Boot Black is literally the best product in the assortment, and I would definitely rank it as the top—Shine Like A Diamond—cause it actually provides really good shine. If you work with it, great shine, great patina, so you could really create a nice finish on the leather, which really, if you compare to other creams, it’s not that often the case. Because, again, it’s a product where you compromise between the different properties because, usually, it’s some sort of emulsion—you mix water and wax. So, I would rank this quite high because it has all the function.

Nourishing, pigmentation, & waterproofing

The Cream That Does It All

It has really great pigmentation and really great nourishment as well, and you do get waterproofing, which is literally the biggest issue for most creams.

Waterproofing, when it comes to a cream, is challenging because you mix a lot of different components but, in the end, you need a surface that has this hydrophobic surface. So, yeah, top tier, definitely.

[Jack] Excellent! That sounds like Boot Black is going to be the best cream polish for the person that just likes to rejuvenate the color of their shoes, give it a once over with a brush or maybe a cloth and just have that nice sort of semi-shine for the day.

[Anders] Yeah, exactly, and that’s the the beauty of a of a proper cream. You make it fast, it’s a convenient product. A polish is harder. It takes a little bit more time. But, cream—it’s fast, it’s easy, it’s convenient, it’s soft. So, you can work with it quite easy. So, that’s why a cream, like the Pâte, it’s a great product to use.

6. Kiwi Shoe Polish & Kiwi Parade Gloss

[Jack] Excellent! So, moving on to our next brand, and this one might be a bit controversial—it’s Kiwi.

[Anders] Yeah, so Kiwi. We don’t really know what’s happening with Kiwi. Will they be lost through history or will they remain? Will they be bought up? We don’t know at the moment, but they do have a core part in history when it comes to polishes. We all know the Parade Gloss, and the standard Kiwi polish has been… You can easily find it anywhere, and it’s been widely used through history.

[Jack] Definitely, I think that’s something in my own menswear journey and, even now, Kiwi’s been the brand that I can rely on being available in a lot of different places—supermarkets, corner shops.

It’s the cheaply-available, every-man shoe polish.

[Anders] Yeah, and I mean, I can tell you if I look at my father’s shoe care bag, you will find a Kiwi Parade Gloss. And Kiwi, I mean, most old gentlemen will have it. Anyhow, so if we look at the products though, we can start with the standard polish. It is obviously a compromise when you have to lower the cost as they’ve done, but their focus is consistency, which would mean that this product is not as agile for a high shine if you compare for the the high brands. So, maybe I would rank this low—as Rough As Dirt.

But, if you’re going to take the price into account… Yeah. Looking at the Parade Gloss though, this is a interesting product because it still has a quite valuable low price point, but it a harder wax for a higher shine. I mean, this would be trying to compete with the Mirror Gloss, obviously.

[Jack] From Saphir? 

[Anders] From Saphir. Yeah, exactly. The thing about the Parade Gloss is, yes, you have carnauba wax, which is the harder natural wax you want for high shine, but it’s also made with a lot of paraffin, microcrystalline waxes, don’t use turpentine. Now, using this product, you will notice that you have more tendency with cracking; not cracking of the wax layer, cracking of the leather.

[Jack] Interesting, okay.

[Anders] Yes, it is because, generally, when you talk about polishes, you don’t get a lot of nourishment; however, it will easily dry up the product if it doesn’t have some of the nourishing waxes like beeswax, for example. So, cause it does have a lot of solvents can be a bit harsh. 

So, the Parade Gloss will be able to build a fairly good shine, but it has a tendency to dry out the leather slightly, so you have to be a bit careful when using that product and I mean, paraffins are really good for waterproofing. But, for shine and good for the leather, not so much. So, this would be a mid-low, Works In A Pinch kind of product, if I going to be honest. But, again, a perfectly good product for normal households.

7. Paul Brunngård Spitshine & Paul Brunngård Sublime Wax

[Jack] Okay, so on to our next brand. Now, this one is quite special, and it’s one of the reasons why we’ve got Anders with us today. Although this video is not sponsored, Paul Brunngård is a unique product in the shoe care world. Why is that, Anders?

[Anders] I’m actually the man behind Paul Brunngård.

[Jack] Fantastic!

[Anders] Yeah, so I’m actually an engineer, but I come from a passion for shoe care. I’ve competed with shoe care, competed in shoe shining championships in Sweden, and I really want to bring that passion into this brand. Even though I come from an engineering standpoint, I wanted to have that twist and not be too designing to marketing and really a focus on the quality, the craftsmanship.

[Jack] Excellent! So, essentially, Paul Brunngård has been formulated over your many years of trying and testing other different polishes—which, like I say, is why Anders is with us today—because, essentially, you’ve got more experience in the world of shoe care than I could ever hope to. So, we’re also expecting that Paul Brunngård’s probably going to rank pretty high, but let’s see, where would you put the hard waxes?

FOR THE LOVE OF SHOES

Paul Brunngård

Paul Brunngård has been formulated over many years of trying and testing other different polishes.

Official website

[Anders] Yeah, so we have two waxes, and we have Sublime Wax and Spitshine. Both are polishes. It’s not a cream polish, but rather a hard polish, and I would say, for example, the Sublime Wax is a softer polish.

[Jack] That’s that one there?

[Anders] Yeah, this is the sublime wax. Whilst the Spitshine is harder. And if we look at Sublime Wax, generally, this what we want to use. What I wanted to achieve was a convenient polish, apply easy, get a really high shine for someone who might or not want to do spit shine. Obviously, you can do it. So, these two products are different types of products. It’s a bit apples and pears still. They’re different tools for different processes of the shoe care routine, so they’re a bit optimized for the different parts. 

[Jack] So, essentially, depending on what the user wants to get from their shoe care routine, a different product is going to do a different thing for them?

[Anders] Yeah, exactly!

[Jack] Okay.

Paul Brunngård Sublime Wax

Sublime Wax uses carnauba wax, beeswax, a little more of the soft waxes to make sure that you can easily apply it. It’s soft, nourishes leather slightly, but really when you use a a polishing brush like the yak brush, you can achieve that really nice shine.

Paul Brunngård Spitshine

With Spitshine we can actually achieve an even greater shine and easier buildup. It is optimized for building layers and especially fast. Speed is the key.

[Anders] So, the Sublime Wax, obviously, uses carnauba wax, beeswax, a little more of the soft waxes to make sure that you can easily apply it. It’s soft, nourishes leather slightly, but really when you use a a polishing brush like the yak brush, you can achieve that really nice shine. But, it’s easy, it’s convenient. You can spit shine with it—of course, you can. But, here’s the difference: This Spitshine is made for passionate freaks like me.

[Jack] Not freaks, I would say. I would say “enthusiast.” 

[Anders] Enthusiast! Yeah, yeah! So, the thing about this Spitshine is, if we take the Sublime Wax, you could obviously achieve a really good shine. I would rank it to Super Slick—top to mid, absolutely! But, if we go to the Spitshine, we can actually achieve an even greater shine and easier buildup. So, this product is still optimized for a good, easy shine, but the Spitshine is optimized for building layers and especially fast. Speed is the key.

[Jack] Awesome! So, if you’re the sort of person that likes that mirror shine, that really gleaming toe cap, the Spitshine is the one.

[Anders] Yeah, and here we made sure to use more hard waxes, so you will, if you compare these two, you will definitely see a much harder paste. But, the thing I wanted to achieve with the Spitshine, especially, is that I wanted to have a hard, spit shine polish, a hard wax polish that doesn’t really get the issues with cracking as much. So, when you usually apply wax with too much Montan wax or too hard wax, it could easily crack. But, with this one, we didn’t really have those issues because we tweaked it to be optimized to tweak out those issues; those features that you could find with those types of waxes.

[Jack] Got it! So, the Sublime Wax ranks at the Super Slick. What about the Spitshine?

[Anders] Shines Like A Diamond, obviously! Of course, again, here we use turpentine— optimized to have a evaporation rate, which helps to build layers really fast. Harder waxes to build a solid wax layer. So, definitely shines like diamond. Top tier.

8. Paul Brunngård Artistic Cream

[Anders] And when it comes to the creams, we have the Artistic Cream, and again, you can’t compare a proper cream to a polish. Two different kinds of products but the wonderful part about the Artistic Cream that we’re really proud of is that you really get a really fantastic shine, but still good water repellency.

[Jack] Oh, awesome! Okay.

[Anders] So, it does provide good nourishment. It does provide pigmentation. I would argue that our cream has less pigmentation to, for example, Pommadier, which would be an advantage for some that might over apply it.

A Cream Can

Shine too…

But, my focus on the cream is a high shine. Obviously, not a spit shine or a mirror shine, but a good shine with good water repellency and a good nourishment and pigmentation to the degree that you need. So, definitely a top cream.

[Jack] Yeah. So, you’d say that one is also Shines Like A Diamond?

[Anders] Yes, that one shines because, actually, the shine from Artistic Cream is fantastic.

9. Dasco Shoe Polish

[Jack] Next up is another one very similar to Kiwi. It’s kind of that supermarket brand. I know that I’ve definitely been upsold this one  in a lot of sort of High Street shoe stores. It’s Dasco.

[Anders] So, compare Dasco polish to PB or Saphir. The biggest difference you will see is the lack of turpentine. They will use naphtha. While it’s cheaper and the argument for turpentine could be health issues (some people are more concerned about the health, which is a bit overrated), but the thing about the Dasco is it uses a mixture of, yes, you have carnauba wax, but you also have some synthetic waxes that are not optimized for a good shine. So, obviously, for a general shine, for something that you use on your everyday shoe, fair enough—it’s okay. 

[Jack] So, a Daily Gleam?

[Anders] Daily Gleam. Yeah, absolutely, it’s not the worst you could get. It’s not, but it’s it’s okay. Definitely okay to use.

10. Dasco Shoe Cream

[Jack] And what about soft cream polishes for Dasco?

[Anders] They do have one, and for the price point, it’s an okay cream. They use beeswax, at least, so you get a nourishment, you get a bit of shine. It’s an okay cream. I wouldn’t rank it too high—Works In A Pinch. It’s an okay cream for the for the price point, I would argue.

11. Cherry Blossom Shoe Polish & Cherry Blossom Shoe Cream

[Jack] Okay. Next up is one that I think a lot of the vintage aficionados will definitely recognize. It’s a brand that I know has been around for many, many years, and that’s Cherry Blossom.

[Anders] Yeah, even from the UK, as well. So, yes, Cherry Blossom is an interesting brand. They do have a polish, and I’ve actually tried it out a bit. The problem you’re going to have with it: They don’t use turpentine. It’s like with Dasco. It is an okay polish. Fair enough, but I’m trying to polish with it, you can’t really build layers fast. It creates an okay shine. The biggest issue with this product is the insufficient wax layer buildup. Definitely the biggest issue with this one. So, it doesn’t really compete with PB, Boot Black, or Saphir.

[Jack] I’ve always seen Cherry Blossom and Kiwi and potentially even Dasco being as competitors amongst the kind of lower echelons, also lower price bracket. I think that’s the reality, right?

[Anders] Yeah, which is fair enough. I mean, they compete at a different segment. So, again, it’s a bit apples and pears, but you have to still compare price point and quality. And definitely an okay brand for someone that that likes their specific formulations. But, trying them out, not really impressed with, especially, the polish. The cream—Daily Gleam. Absolutely okay. Okay cream. Provides a bit of shine.

[Jack] So, you’d rank the cream higher than the wax?

[Anders] Yeah. 

[Jack] Got it! So, the cream came in at Daily Gleam and the polish—Works In A Pinch.

[Anders] It works in a pinch. Yeah, yeah. Definitely.

12. Tarrago Shoe Polish

[Jack] Okay, next up is a Spanish brand of shoe polish, Tarrago. Not one that I’ve had a lot of experience with so I’d be intrigued to hear your thoughts.

[Anders] I’m actually very fond of Tarrago as a middle-segment polish. Because if you look at their formulation, they make sure to use natural waxes—beeswax, carnauba wax; mineral waxes, which would be—I don’t know exactly what kind of mineral waxes—but I would assume a bit of montan wax, a bit of other types of mineral based waxes that are important to create a gel. So, their formula is more stable and more clean, more neat, which is good. They don’t use turpentine.

They have the same problem if you want to build layers as you would have with Dasco or Cherry Blossom. But, definitely an okay, good polish, I would say. I would definitely rank this Daily Gleam if you compare that to, for example, the Dasco and the Cherry Blossom.

[Jack] Good to know. So, is that one that should probably look out to include in my own shoe care routine?

[Anders] Yeah, if you’re going for a… It’s obviously slightly cheaper. So, if price point is important for you, I would definitely go for Tarrago, actually.

13. Tarrago Shoe Cream

[Jack] Nice. Good to know. Do they do a cream polish?

[Anders] Yeah, which is a good one. They make sure to use good ingredients. Get fairly good water repellency, which, again, it’s a balance. Maybe the shine is not as good as, for example… Definitely not Artistic Palette, definitely not PBand , definitely not Saphir. But, it’s good. I would rank it Daily Gleam definitely.

[Jack] So, a consistency with Tarrago polishes.

[Anders] Definitely consistency. I think Tarrago, they do good products.

14. Lincoln Shoe Polish

[Anders] So, the next brand (that’s really interesting) is Lincoln. This is an American brand that is established in the 1920s in California, San Francisco.

It’s a bit interesting cause they they seem to have a great following. I mean, fan base for really shoe care lovers. That military passion for a high shine—military spit shine, so to say.

[Jack] So, what made the brand special to begin with? You say 1920s?

[Anders] Yeah, so it seems to be that the founders, sort of, were the passionate people of a high shine shoe, and you can really see it in the product that they focus a lot on high shine. The product works really well for high shine, and you can get that that is highly reflected in the fan base; that they are as passionate as me, which is great and which gives that brand some credit.

[Jack] Excellent! What are they like, price point?

[Anders] It’s a fairly good price point for the quality, I would say. Yeah, it’s a good product for the price.

[Jack] Okay, so where would you rank their wax polishes? Their harder polishes?

[Anders] Daily Gleam. The polish is a Daily Gleam. It’s a good polish, and I think that’s their hero product.

[Jack] So, again, quite similar consistency with, for instance, Tarrago that we saw earlier. So, if you’re looking for something that’s going to give you a decent return on your money, then Lincoln.

[Anders] Lincoln, definitely. I mean, they have passion. So, definitely a good bang for the buck. Definitely.

[Jack] So, essentially, Anders, but a hundred years ago.

[both laugh]

[Anders] Good point, good point.

15. Pure Polish Shoe Polish

[Jack] Finally, we come to a brand that, again, is new to me but you know a lot about and that is Pure Polish. 

[Anders] Yeah, again, an American brand. Also like Lincoln, made in the United States, and they bring something new to the table. So, instead of using turpentine, they actually use orange oil. Why they do this is because they feel that the turpentine being a bit harsh, generally, to the to the user.

The orange oil is more fresh, which is definitely the case. It has a more fresh smell. Funny enough though, if you take the consistency or the content of a turpentine oil, it consists of limonene, which is the main component of the orange oil. So, actually they are similar slightly, but the orange oil will have similar flash points like the turpentine because it is a turpentine kind of molecule.

So, it’s an interesting concept, and I think they achieved a really nice both polish and cream. So, why would you want to use Pure Polish is mainly because you want something that has a different smell.

[Jack] So, if you don’t like that sort of really harsh… It definitely hits. We were talking about the Mirror Gloss from Saphir. That one is very high turpentine scent. It kind of hits the back of your nostrils. So, if you prefer something that’s perhaps a little kinder, especially if you have sensitivities to scents, I can imagine this is the better polish for you.

[Anders] Yes and no.

the main concern of turpentine is

Terpene

The main concern of turpentine is alpha pinene, which is a terpene. Some are a bit concerned that, yeah, if you get it on your skin, it can penetrate into the blood which is true. But the problem with, for example, if you look at the orange oil is that you… It mainly consists of limonene, and limonene is an antioxidant but it is highly oxidative in air, and once it oxidizes, it’s quite harsh. If you look at the classification for the orange oil compared to the turpentine, they’re quite both harsh. So, you don’t get any perks healthwise with orange oil. Even though some say it is if you look at the medical and chemical properties in research, it says otherwise.

So, it’s just that it’s different and that might be for some. That has a lighter smell instead of the bit sharp one. And if you look at the polish, for example, the high shine, it only uses natural waxes, which is good. It uses beeswax, carnauba wax. A good thing, obviously, cause you don’t have paraffins. Again, this means that you can also get a good shine. I would definitely say that.

The problem though with the polish from Pure Polish, I would say, is consistency in graining. There are some… I have seen cases where you have a bit of grain structure, and this is because, even though beeswax and carnauba wax are really interesting waxes to use in a polish, you need some other waxes to create a gel, and the cooling process is vital to to create this gel structure between the waxes and the solvents.

[Jack] So, does that gel structure it creates, the smoother the cake of polish in the tin.

[Anders] Yeah, simplified, yes. So, it can be a bit grainy. So, I would say that is I think the downfall. But you do get really nice shine, and this is because the high content of the orange oil, which has a high flash point, helps to create a good shine, and of course, carnauba wax. So, definitely, Super Slick on the polish.

[Jack] Cool, okay.

[Anders] I like it. It’s just it has some issues, and I think they could be could be definitely better if they try to fix some of the quirks on that product. But really nice product.

16. Pure Polish Cream 

[Jack] And for the cream polish?

[Anders] A good shine, good water… I would definitely put that on Daily Gleam.

Summary of Ranking of Shoe Polishes

Conclusion

[Jack] So, there we have it. Some shoe polish brands that you’ve definitely heard of, as well as some that you probably haven’t heard of yet and how they rank against each other. Now, I’m curious, would you rank these polishes the same as us? What experience do you have? Let us know in the comments below, and Anders, thanks so much for being with us today.

[Anders] Thank you very much!

In this guide, you will learn what to wear as part of men’s wedding guest attire. We will share essential considerations when selecting your ensemble, provide information on the basic elements of each dress code you are likely to encounter, and offer examples of every outfit.

Armed with this information, you will be prepared to enjoy any wedding secure in the knowledge that you are properly attired.

Essential Wedding Guest Sartorial Etiquette

Follow These Guidelines When Dressing as a Guest at Any Wedding

When you are preparing your clothing and accessories for any wedding, be sure to keep this information in mind while crafting your ensemble. These basic tenets will ensure that you are correctly dressed so that you will not inadvertently draw undue attention.

Never Overshadow the Marrying Couple

Whether the wedding you are attending has two brides, two grooms, or a bride and groom, you never want to dress in any way that might draw undue attention to you and effectively overshadow the happy couple. The wedding is their special day, and on that occasion, they and their wedding party deserve to be the center of attention. Therefore, avoid any clothing or accessories that could appear obtrusive.

No flashy colors or patterns

Overly loud or bold suits, jackets, trousers, or shirts, whether because of their color, pattern, or cut, will naturally draw attention to you. Unless the wedding invitation specifically invites a more dynamic range of sartorial styles, plan to wear more sedate colors, like whites, blues, and grays, and solid colors or basic patterns, like stripes, checks, or grids.

No Monochromatic Ensembles

Although trendy in the 2010s, the monochromatic look has become increasingly dated in dressy affairs, often appearing overwrought and fussy: the black suit with a black shirt and black tie is particularly notorious. This drastically matched look is also very noticeable and will draw attention to you, meaning that you are drawing that attention away from the marrying couple and the wedding party.

No Obtrusive Accessories

Items like top hats, fanciful boutonnieres, ascots, gloves, and the like are increasingly associated with members of the wedding party at nuptials or the groom himself, being intended essentially to mark the wearer as playing a special role in the proceedings. Therefore, avoid wearing accessories that are out of the ordinary unless specifically invited to do so by the marrying couple.

Cover the Basics of Classic Menswear

Unless a wedding is extremely casual, you will never be remiss in ensuring that your wedding guest ensemble consists of the following basic elements.

1

Suit or Jacket and Trousers

Tasteful suits in sedate colors like brown, gray, or blue are ideal for almost any contemporary wedding; navy and charcoal are especially versatile options in a lighter or heavier weight of wool to suit the seasons. A peak lapel or a notched lapel is acceptable, with the former being considered more formal. A similar look can be achieved by pairing a jacket in one of those colors with trousers that are either gray, like flannels, or off-white, like chinos. Even if the jacket should prove to be somewhat on the formal side, you can always take it off.

2

Dress Shirt

A cotton shirt with a collar that features a button front and is long-sleeved will never be remiss at a wedding and is far more appropriate than short-sleeved garments like a polo shirt. In most cases, a white shirt will be the most versatile, but light blue is also an option if desired.

3

Necktie

Some kind of neckwear is almost always appropriate for a wedding. While bow ties could be too whimsical and ascots should only be worn if demanded by the dress code, a necktie is a subtle accessory that is suited to the widest array of dress codes. Similar to the jacket, it can also always be taken off if necessary. For more formal dress codes, the type of neckwear, such as a black bow tie for Black Tie, will be included prescribed.

4

Leather Dress Shoes

Historically, leather dress shoes, usually oxfords or derbies in dark brown for daytime events and black for evening events, were de rigeur for weddings. While we generally believe that continuing to observe this convention is best, you can, if desired, potentially wear dress sneakers at weddings, provided that they are unassuming and have simple, elegant lines. Avoid any shoes that are more casual, especially trainers or other footwear that is obviously intended for athletic events.

Always Follow the Stated Dress Code

For most weddings, the couple will designate a dress code. This information will usually appear on the wedding invitation or, sometimes, on the wedding website. If a wedding has a stated dress code, always follow it: ignoring a dress code is extremely rude and will cause you to stand out obtrusively among the wedding party and the other guests.

Do Not Underdress

Appearing underdressed at a wedding, especially a wedding with a more formal dress code, is a common faux pas that communicates disregard for the couple and their wishes. While it may seem like what you choose to wear doesn’t matter, failing to dress yourself according to the desired level of formality could be perceived as a slight at your hosts and will, at the very least, cause you to be extremely noticeable around the other guests who dressed correctly.

What if I just can’t follow the

Dress Code?

Some dress codes, especially more formal dress codes, can require a sizable investment in time or capital to achieve the correct look. If you are unable or unwilling to fulfill this request, you should not plan to attend the wedding: fortunately, however, you can achieve most dress codes’ formalities without breaking the bank.

Do Not Overdress

You may assume that any couple would be glad to have a dapper gentleman dressed to the nines at their wedding, but the fact of the matter is, dressing to a degree more elevated than the stated dress code is almost as obstructive as underdressing. The marrying couple might even take your overdressing as an insult indicating that you felt the couple was in error when they selected their desired dress code.

There are also practical concerns to consider. If the groom is wearing a business suit and you are wearing a morning suit, your elevated appearance will distract from the groom and create confusion among everyone present; just as only the bride should wear white at a wedding, only the groom should be dressed according to the loftiest dress code present.

Ensure You Have Sufficient Time to Prepare

As soon as you decide that you are going to attend a wedding, start thinking about your ensemble. Give yourself at least a month, and possibly longer, to ensure that all of your items are available, in good repair, and properly fitted. Alterations may be required to ensure a good fit, and you do not want to feel rushed as the time for the wedding draws near.

Make Sure You Understand These 10 Essential Guidelines for Fit

There are some things you

Shouldn’t Wear

Unless specific provision for them has been made in the invitation, never wear sandals, flip flops, shorts, tee shirts, or casual jeans at a wedding: they do not convey the basic decorum typical of nuptials.

These 8 Things should never be worn at weddings!

Changing Clothes Between the Ceremony and Reception

Nuptial celebrations can either feature a wedding ceremony and reception held in close proximity to each other or with a lapse of time in between: for instance, a wedding ceremony held in the early afternoon followed by a reception in the evening.

In the former situation, there is likely no expectation nor opportunity for you to change your clothes. In the latter, however, you may be expected to wear a different outfit to the reception than wedding.

How to Pick a Versatile Outfit for the Wedding and the Reception

To ensure that your look is suitable for both the ceremony and the reception in the event that you are unable to change clothes, base your outfit around the expected formality of the more formal event. It is always better to be overdressed at a wedding than underdressed.

Special considerations for

Novel Nuptials

Extremely casual weddings, those with an unusual theme, or those in which guests have been asked to dress up in costumes usually have different expectations from conventional weddings. In these circumstances, go with the flow as indicated by your hosts and the wedding party and do not be a stickler for traditional rules: do not expect an unconventional wedding to follow conventional rules.

General Formality Guidelines for Wedding Guest Attire

Time of Day

As indicated by the distinction between daywear and eveningwear, events that take place during the daytime will, in most circumstances, be slightly less formal than events taking place at night: the exception to this rule is any daytime event with an explicitly formal dress code, such as morning wear.

In all other circumstances, however, you can generally wear more casual variations on attire for daytime events that still fall within the stated dress code. For example, at a wedding with a business formal dress code, if the ceremony takes place during the day, you could wear a medium-blue suit with brown shoes. For a wedding of the same formality taking place at night, however, a navy suit with black shoes would be more appropriate.

Season

In general, weddings that take place in the cooler months of autumn or winter tend to be more formal than weddings taking place in the warm or hot months of spring and summer. This is because the color palettes typical of warm months tend to be lighter and brighter, inviting a generally more casual dressing style.

These conventions are especially true for any event taking place out of doors, for which you will be allowed greater leeway in your clothing choice to ensure your comfort.

Keep in mind, however, that these distinctions of relative formality always exist within the confines of the stated dress code: the time and season of a wedding do not grant you permission to dress according to a standard contrary to the dress code.

Venue

Where you celebrate a wedding or reception will impact how formal you are expected to be. Just like you would dress differently at a fine restaurant than you would at a diner, so too will the attire expected at a fancy hotel or country club usually vary from what is worn at a brewery or converted barn. As always, follow the guidelines laid out in your invitation and use common sense.

A Special Consideration for Places of Worship

Places of worship usually, but do not always, have a higher expected level of formality than most secular spaces. This distinction reflects the additional solemnity that religious rites impart on a location and the reverence due to them.

Be mindful that in certain faith traditions, you may be expected to observe particular customs, such as removing your shoes or keeping your head covered. Your hosts will make this fact clear in your invitation, and if you plan to attend the wedding, plan also to adhere to these instructions.

Common Wedding Dress Codes

Determine Exactly What You Are Expected to Wear

No Dress Code or Come-As-You-Are

This extremely casual dress code affords you the most implied leeway when it comes to what to wear to a wedding. In effect, the hosting couple is explicitly stating that they want you to wear whatever makes you feel comfortable and best able to enjoy the festivities. 

In practice, however, “no dress” does not allow you to wear whatever you want: your hosts probably do not intend for you to arrive in a Superman costume or in a wedding gown. Practically speaking, there is still an implied standard of dress. To determine that standard of dress, read our guide on What to Wear to a Wedding with No Dress Code. 

Theme

Technically speaking, this “dress code” is actually a dressing convention. It invites you to prepare a unique ensemble that reflects the stated theme of the wedding, with less of an emphasis on conventional wedding attire or formality. This theme could be fairly sedate, such as “1920s Gatsby Gala,” or more involved, such as “Disney Characters.” In general, thematic dressing places a strong emphasis on creativity and having fun, so embrace the theme if you plan to attend such a wedding. 

Destination, Beach, or Tropical

These descriptors technically indicate a type of wedding and not a formality. Such weddings, like a beach wedding, could feature clothing as casual as Bermuda shorts and tank tops or as formal as an ivory dinner jacket worn as part of a Black Tie. Therefore, be mindful of the likely formality of the event and be sure to read our guide to Resort Attire.

An Example of a Resort Attire Ensemble

Fort Belvedere

Shantung Striped Dark Red, Blue and White Silk Tie

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Dark Blue Linen Pocket Square with White Handrolled X Stitch

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Fort Belvedere

Midnight Blue and Burgundy Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks

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Smart Casual or Dressy Casual

The most casual dress code you are likely to encounter at a wedding, this standard of dress emphasizes simple lines and the comfort of the wearer. It is not, however, an invitation to show up in a hoodie and stained gym shorts.

Instead, pair plush, plain garments, like a cardigan or simple blazer, with comfortable trousers like chinos or possibly corduroys and a light-toned shirt with comfortable shoes: loafers are an excellent option. You could also skip the jacket, but we recommend wearing a more structured shirt with a collar, like a long-sleeved polo shirt or a henley. Knitwear, like a pullover or a turtleneck, could also be an option.

An Example of a Smart Casual Ensemble

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Reversible Scarf in Burgundy Red and Blue Silk Wool Motifs and Paisley

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Mid Brown and Green Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Fil d'Ecosse Cotton

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Fort Belvedere

Petrol Blue Men's Gloves with Button in Lamb Nappa Leather

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Business Casual

Traditionally, the Business Casual Dress Code would never be offered as an option during a wedding, as it is a work, and not a social, dress code. The general popularity of this dress code, however, has led to its increasing adoption in social situations and it is possible that you might find it mentioned on a wedding invitation.

One of the most diverse dress codes, the potential options for Business Casual are so far-ranging that it is sometimes summarized with the flippant rule that “Business Casual means no three-piece suit and also no jeans, but anything in between.”

For those who prefer a definition, the perfect business casual outfit is a combination of elements that are casual and formal, combined to produce a dressy but casual whole. It consists of a seasonally appropriate sports jacket or blazer with slacks, chinos, or khaki pants. It includes a collared shirt that can be worn open or with an optional casual knit tie or bow tie. It is usually paired with more casual footwear, such as loafers or loafer-style shoes, monk straps, derbies, and over-the-calf socks.

This dress code affords many options when it comes to accessories, so do not be afraid to get creative in your selections, especially in regards to color, pattern, and texture.

Because Business Casual offers so much leeway, it can easily be adapted to fit the mood, vibe, and expectations of almost any wedding and can be a very creative dressing option when properly employed.

Can you wear Business Casual

With a Suit?

A light-colored single-breasted suit or combinational outfit is also not out of the question, provided that you enliven the look with fun accessories. A whimsical pocket square, bold socks, and perhaps even a small but colorful boutonniere will keep the ensemble sufficiently fun and frolicsome as part of the Smart Casual dress code, even if you will probably end up taking off your jacket sometime during the festivities.

An Example of a Business Casual Ensemble

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Orange Red Mottled Knit Tie Cri De La Soie Silk

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Fort Belvedere

Monkey Fist Knot Cufflinks – 925 Sterling Silver Platinum Plated

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Dark Havana Brown Calf Leather Belt Aniline Dyed Cut-To-Size – Folded Edges 3cm x 120cm

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Benedict Silver Solid Brass Belt Buckle Exchangeable Oblong Rectangle with Palladium Plating Hypoallergenic Nickel Free

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Burnt Orange Silk Pocket Square with Dotted Motifs and Paisley

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Business Attire, Business Formal, or Cocktail Attire

Due to the popularity of Business Formal as a dress code for business events, it is sometimes adopted as a social dress code. In fact, a social, evening-time variation on Business Attire already exists, and it is known as Cocktail Attire, reflecting the mid-century propensity for the well-dressed to enjoy cocktails in the liminal space after work before officially dressing for dinner: the cocktail dress is closely associated with this level of formality.

At this level, expect to wear a single-breasted or double-breasted suit in a dark shade of gray or blue, such as charcoal or navy; a dark brown suit may be suitable for weddings that take place outdoors or during the daytime. Your shirt will almost always be solid white or possibly light blue, with subtle patterns and textures being acceptable in more casual environments. Black oxfords or derbies should be worn in the evening, with dark brown shoes being an option during the day. Accessories should be elegant and have just a little “pop,” such as an unexpected pattern, rich color, or bold texture to set you apart.

Find the Perfect Collar Jewelry for Your Next Big Event!

Bold and Beautiful

Collar Clips

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Understated Elegance

Collar Bars

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Effortless Cool

Collar Pins

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Collar jewelry, such as a collar pin or a collar bar, is an ideal option for adding unexpected visual interest and a unique flash of metallic luster.

An Example of a Cocktail Attire Ensemble

Fort Belvedere

Madder Silk Tie in Dark Blue, Light Blue and Red Macclesfield Neats

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Collar Bar Clip in Platinum Silver

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Fort Belvedere

Silver Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Lapis Lazuli Balls

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Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Light Grey and Light Blue

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Semi-Formal

Semi-Formal attire, historically, referred to a dressed-down version of formal attire, but now the term refers to a wider range of potential formality that straddles the divide between formal evening attire and daytime attire. At its most basic level, this dress code refers to an elevated, dignified style of dress that is more formal than regular daytime attire, especially for a semi-formal wedding.

Black Tie Optional

At its most basic level, Black-Tie Optional is an evening dress code that extends to you the option to wear Black Tie. You are free to partake of this option or follow a modified dress code that will help you approximate the feel, if not the exact components, of a Black-Tie ensemble. Black-Tie Optional events are designed to communicate a judgment-free acknowledgment that not all men necessarily own or can afford a conventional Black-Tie ensemble.

As you might suspect, Black Tie Optional attire is intended to be reminiscent of Black Tie garb but with fewer specialized elements. Expect to wear a dark single-breasted or double-breasted suit, usually dark gray or dark blue that is ideally solid, although very subtle patterns or textures may be acceptable. Your shirt should ideally be white, but light blue is acceptable if necessary. Likewise, black oxfords with a plain toe are preferred, but black oxfords or derbies with conservative detailing can work as well. Avoid shoes of any other color if possible, but if necessary, you could wear very dark brown oxfords with no or minimal detailing.

Black Tie Optional

Accessories

As part of this dress code, accessories should be tasteful and sedate, with rich, dark-toned boutonnieres, pocket squares, and neckties, and, if desired, tasteful, discreet jewelry, such as cufflinks.

Fort Belvedere caters to all of your classic menswear jewelry Needs

An Example of a Black Tie Optional Ensemble

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Platinum-Plated Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Carnelian Balls

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Silk Tie in Jacquard Burgundy Red with White Polka Dots

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Black Tie

Black Tie is the most common example of formal evening attire worn today. It consists of a formal dinner ensemble, referred to as a tuxedo or tux, a dinner suit, or a smoking ensemble, depending on your geographic location. As an example of formal attire, the rules for Black Tie are fairly strictly and explicitly stated, so this dress code is actually fairly simple to wear, provided that you correctly source all of the elements: because almost every element is prescribed, you have relatively few decisions to make yourself. 

A Black Tie ensemble consists of a dinner jacket, which is not the same thing as a day suit jacket and is black or midnight blue, a pair of formal evening trousers, an evening shirt with a wing or turndown collar that takes studs, a black bow tie, a waist covering, either a cummerbund or an evening waistcoat, silk evening socks, and formal black shoes, usually plain-toed oxfords.

Black Tie is worn at Which

Time of Day?

In most of the world, a Black-Tie wedding only takes place after 5 pm so you are only likely to encounter this dress code for receptions or the occasional evening wedding. In North America, however, Black Tie tuxedos are commonly worn during wedding ceremonies and receptions regardless of the time of day at which they take place.

Fort Belvedere

Black Self-Tie Diamond Bow Tie in Silk Satin Sized with Pointed Ends

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Dark Red Carnation Boutonniere Life Size Lapel Flower

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Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Onyx Ball – 925 Sterling Silver Platinum Plated

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White Linen Pocket Square with Handrolled Edges, Made in Italy

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Finest Over The Calf Socks in Black Silk

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Black Satin Evening Shoelaces

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Morning Attire

Morning Attire is the most formal example of daytime attire. While increasingly rare for weddings in the Americas, it is not uncommonly worn by wedding parties in the United Kingdom, the European Continent, and parts of Asia and Africa. Unless you are attending a state, society, or noble wedding, however, it is unlikely that you will be expected to wear morning attire as a guest.

Morning attire consists of a cutaway swallowtail coat, black-striped or gray formal day trousers, a waistcoat in a neutral color, traditionally buff or dove gray, a formal day shirt with a wing or turndown collar, formal neckwear, traditionally an ascot or “wedding tie,” and formal black-capped or plain-toe oxfords.

A Morning Attire Variation: The Morning Suit

In Great Britain and some parts of the Commonwealth, the term “morning suit” is employed for a less formal iteration of morning dress. This suit differs from formal morning dress only in that the cutaway, trousers and waistcoat are constructed from the same light or mid-gray material.

In the accompanying image, the second gentleman from the right is wearing a morning suit.

What is the

Stroller?

The Stroller ensemble, also referred to as Black Lounge Attire, was a semi-formal iteration of morning dress popular before World War II. It consists of all of the elements of morning dress, but with a black or charcoal suit-like jacket, the shirt always has a turndown collar, and a conventional necktie is usually worn. While relatively rare today, the stroller is sometimes worn as a wedding ensemble for Continental weddings, especially in Germanic countries.

An Example of a Morning Wear Ensemble

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Pale Pink Carnation Boutonniere

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White Linen Pocket Square

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Yellow Gold Monkey Fist Cufflinks

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Black and Silver Stripe Tie

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White Tie

The most formal example of formal wedding attire for evenings, White Tie, is increasingly uncommon as a wedding dress code, usually appearing only in society, state, royal, or noble nuptials. If you are invited to a wedding with this dress code, ensure that you follow exactly all of its conventions and requirements if you plan to attend. A White Tie wedding is a supremely dignified event, and as a guest, you have an obligation to maintain that high standard of decorum. 

White Tie requires a formal evening dress suit consisting of an evening tailcoat, formal evening trousers, a marcella pique bib-front evening shirt that takes studs, a full dress white formal evening waistcoat, a white marcella pique bow tie, silk evening socks, and plain-toed patent leather shoes or opera pumps.

An Example of a White Tie Ensemble

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Platinum-Plated Monkey Fist Shirt Studs

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Marcella White Tie Formal Evening Bow Tie

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Formal Evening Silk Socks

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Purple Carnation Boutonniere

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Accessories

Add a Personal Touch with Classic Accessories

At every formality level, the most versatile way to make your wedding guest ensemble your own, adding a touch of personality and the unique, is with accessories. These little touches set you apart without drawing undue attention to yourself and emphasize the celebratory mood of any nuptials.

Neckwear

If you are emphasizing a Classic appearance in your wedding guest look, you will almost certainly be wearing neckwear of some kind. At more casual events, bold options, including colorful day bowties and neckties with fun patterns like broad paisley, geometric, or even florals, are options. For more formal evenings, restrict the color palette and design to reflect the more sedate and dignified nature of the event, and for the most formal evening events, limit yourself to an appropriate formal evening bowtie. You can still make the bowtie your own, however, by selecting a unique bow type that suits your face.

Frolicsome Bow Ties

Make a Fun Impression!

Classic Neckties

Countless Colors and Patterns!

Formal Bow Ties

Find the Right Shape For You!

Pocket Square

Breast pockets look bare without a pocket square, so consider wearing one any time you wear a jacket. They help to break up the front of a jacket and add unexpected visual interest that is not overwhelming. For more casual weddings cultivating a fun and frolicsome atmosphere, bold, colorful pocket squares are perfectly acceptable, but to maintain a refined air, in at the most formal of affair, nothing compares to a crisp white linen pocket square.

Fun &Unique

Available Here!

Bold Colors

Available Here!

Formal Air

Available Here!

Boutonniere

Flowers are commonly associated with weddings, so what could be more fitting than an elegant bloom in your lapel? Because members of the wedding party often wear boutonnieres as favors or a means of identification, do not wear an extremely intricate, colorful, or oversized boutonniere as a guest. Opt instead for a smaller flower in a color that harmonizes with your ensemble. Carnations, spray roses, orchids, camellias, and petals of similar scale are suitable options, often in unobtrusive light colors like white, pink, lilac, baby blue, or pale yellow.

Camellias

Wander in Our Garden

Roses

Behold These Blooms

Carnations

Find the Finest Flowers

Be Aware of

Visual Balance

When assembling an outfit, especially as a wedding guest who does not want to draw excessive attention, always consider the visual weight of your boutonniere and your pocket square. If both items are prominent due to color, pattern, or size, the look can appear overly heavy. Therefore, consider offsetting an especially noticeable pocket square with a sedate boutonniere and vice versa, or consider only wearing one.

Socks

Few items are better suited to imparting visual interest without becoming distracting than socks, as they appear on your often more plain lower half and are partially covered by your trousers. An unexpected pop of bright color could be the perfect finishing touch for a fun casual wedding. Even more formal weddings allow for creativity in the form of jewel-toned evening socks, and nothing compares to the rarefied elegance of genuine silk evening socks.

Evening socks don’t have to be boring! Check out these jewel tones!

Bottle Green

Understated Elegance

Burgundy

Bold Beauty

Navy

Formal Finesse

Do not forget to consider overall

Formality

The more formal the wedding is, the more attentive you need to be when selecting the type, color, pattern, material, and overall feel of your accessories. At a very casual wedding, almost anything goes, but for more formal affairs, the appropriateness of accessories can be much more limited. Be sure that you suit your selection to the occasion.

Conclusion

Weddings are a celebratory event intended to commemorate the happy couple and their love in the presence of friends and family. Therefore, always strive to cultivate a joyous and exultant mood when planning a wedding guest ensemble while keeping the desires of your hosts in mind: they wish to cultivate a particular look and feel at their wedding, and, as a guest, you have an important role in that process. Follow the stated dress code, avoid making a spectacle of yourself, and have fun, and you will be the ideal wedding guest, honoring the marrying couple, their wedding party, and all of your fellow guests.

What are some outfits you’ve worn to a wedding? Let us know in the comments!

Video Transcript [Lightly Edited for Clarity]

[Raphael] Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette. Today, I have with me Simon Wegmann from Wayman Bespoke. Simon, pleasure to have you here.

[Simon] Thank you very much for the invitation.

[Raphael] So, we’re here in Florence at Pitti Uomo, so kind of a makeshift studio situation. But, Simon has a very interesting approach with his company where he makes remote bespoke shoes in China, but you’re in Frankfurt, Germany, right?

[Simon] That’s right, yeah.

[Raphael] So, how did you start and go down that path of making bespoke shoes in a remote way?

[Simon] So, yeah, it kind of started with me having very difficult feet. So, I’ve always had issues finding shoes off-the-rack that would kind of fit me in kind of any sensible way. So I, like once I got my first kind of job, where I needed proper leather shoes, dress shoes, I was looking around and couldn’t find anything that would fit me even remotely. So, then I kind of started looking into bespoke, but I quickly noticed that it was quite far outside of my budget. So, then, I was kind of trying to find the makers that were a bit further away, but maybe a bit lower in cost. But, they all told me like, if I wanted to get measured, I would have to go there; and then with the traveling and so on, it would be even more expensive than having something made within my reach.

Simon Wegmann

His passion for classic menswear went hand in hand with a huge interest in well-made shoes. It took him two and a half years to develop the remote bespoke shoe program. When he got sucked in deeper and deeper into the world of bespoke and handmade shoes, his expectations for the program grew with it. With a dedication to highly skilled handwork, his company was able to offer the shoes fully hand clicked, hand lasted and hand welted.

So, I kind of wondered why it wouldn’t be possible to kind of take your the measurements yourself send them to the maker and then they would make the last with maybe a trial shoe and send it to you. But, they all told me it’s impossible, you can’t do it, but I kind of couldn’t accept it. So, I reached out to a bunch of people and kind of made connections along the way and kind of was referred to different shoemakers from different people.

So, in the end, I kind of developed this remote program where you would measure your own feet, and get a trial shoe and then, the finished pair; and, along the way, I kind of figured out I put so much effort into this and I’m probably not the only one with this issue that I could probably offer it to other people as well. So, from this initial need for a proper pair of shoes for myself, this business idea grew and then, like, right before COVID started, I kind of went all out and and started the company. 

[Raphael] That’s awesome, that’s awesome! It’s great! So, basically, you had an issue you wanted a solution, and you didn’t take no for an answer. You were persistent and pursued it, and then you had a product. You said you’ve difficult feet? You have a pair of shoes here, can you just hand it over so we can actually look at them? Okay, so this is a pair of shoes. I mean, the look is rather classic. Kind of walk us through the details here.

[Simon] So this is a classic cap-toe Oxford with the quarter brogue, which is like the whole punch in the front for the cap.

[Raphael] Got the swan neck here.

[Simon] Exactly, the swan neck, which is kind of like a nice design detail. Then, you have the seamless heel, which is very unique for bespoke shoes or very high-end ready-to-wear shoes; and then, what we also do is like this very close-cut heel with this pitch

[Raphael] And just to make sure, again, you know, normally, what you see would be a seam in the center back here. Basically, what you did, it’s not one piece of leather, but you still have a piece here, a piece here around, and then another piece again here. But, it’s a neater look. It’s also something I usually go for. And then, you say tight heel, you mean like here, right? There’s hardly any gap if you compare it with a factory shoe; you just get this really nice, yeah, tight heel.

And even if you look from the back here, you can see it’s very kind of tapered. That’s what you get with a bespoke product. It’s layer by layer of leather. It’s not a ready-made block.

[Simon] Exactly. The heel, you can, for our shoes, choose how much of a pitch you want. If you want it quite square or like a medium pitch, which is already a bit stronger, and then you can even go more extreme and you can also pitch the kind of inside of the heel next to the sides. And then another kind of bespoke detail is also the outsole with a very close-cut, very narrow waist

[Raphael] Yeah, and you can even like see a little bit like if we hold it like this, right? You can see the waist. It’s really slick, slim, nice, curved, and round. You can see how it’s cut in here. Typical, like, bespoke or really high-end ready-to-wear or made-to-order shoes.

[Simon] Yeah, and these are obviously also already well worn, so you can see how the waist is still kind of like intact, and I also put toe taps on on the front, which you can get done by a cobbler as well, but this is also a service we offer.

[Raphael] Like right off the bat? So, you just wear them down a lot less?

[Simon] Yeah, exactly.

[Raphael] Have you ever done the toe taps on the heel?

[Simon] Well, we have done it for like kind of our bespoke samples. But, to wear it with like a metal piece at the back is very uncomfortable because it clacks a lot and also if you go inside somewhere, you will scratch up the floor. So, usually, it’s not very practical in like everyday life, but it looks cool. 

[Raphael] I’ve seen, sometimes, like, you know, someone had like almost like a little wedge, little triangle cut in there, so it would wear less or, I mean, if you put it on the rubber, you get a little bit of wear protection. But, I think the rubber works pretty well. In the toe, like you’re not screwing up the floors initially. I was worried cause we have a wooden floor. We screwed up, but it really doesn’t seem to do it much. 

[Simon] Yeah, I mean it doesn’t also. I mean, it looks nice but it also doesn’t make sense for everyone to have this done. It just makes sense if you kind of wear out the front of your soles prematurely, which I, for example, do because if I don’t put these on, I will kind of almost like rub off the front of my outsole before the shoes are even worn in properly.

[Raphael] So, then, you have to kind of repair it really prematurely, and, otherwise, you walk through the welt, and then it’s a lot more expensive to fix 

[Simon] Exactly, exactly.

[Raphael] Yeah, but nice! It’s like channel soles, right? They cut in so nice.

[Simon] Yeah, and what we do is kind of the outsole right here is fully stitched by hand, so you get also a very tight stitch density, much tighter than what you would find in ready-to-wear shoes.

[Raphael] So, what do we have here?

[Simon] It’s probably 10 or 11 stitches per inch. 

[Raphael] Per inch? So, about one stitch every like two or so millimeters.

[Simon] Yeah, probably, yeah. And then, some design details, which you also see in bespoke shoes are like the kind of inversed v-shape for the lacing. So, once you have like a small gap up here, it looks almost parallel. The whole stitching area.

[Raphael] Yeah, and I mean, typically, over time, right, when you do a bespoke shoe, because leather’s a natural material, you start with a little gap and then, eventually, it should close as you wear it more frequently.

[Simon] True, yeah. And that’s also a question I get a lot, like from first fittings where there’s a small gap, and people are like, “Seems it’s too tight,” but actually, you want to have a small V gap right up here, so you can still kind of tighten the shoes as the leather stretches and wears in 

[Raphael] Cause if you don’t, you actually have overlapping leather, so it should start like this, cause if you don’t have it and you start like this, it’s going to be like this, and it’ll look awful and you want to avoid that.

[Simon] Yeah, and it’s also like you might kind of lose the grip inside the shoes if they aren’t fitting tight enough.

[Raphael] So, I mean, you mentioned before, right, going with bespoke for you was a very personal fit thing cause you’re like… What issues did you have? The shoes were too wide for you, right, or what was the issue? 

[Simon] Well, I have very strange feet overall. Like for example, my pinky toe was always pinched, but I have a lot of excess volume right here at my big toe joint, and then, I also have a very low instep.

[Raphael] That leads to wrinkles cause you have more volume or air here, you get the wrinkle here. You move around.

[Simon] Right, but even more so like when I tried on shoes ready-to-wear, I couldn’t even… Like the lacing would just overlap because I had so much space here. I couldn’t even like have… Even if I tied them down completely, I couldn’t get any grip inside the shoes. So, even the new shoe was overlapping, so there are like some workarounds like tongue pads and so on, but in the end, it really didn’t didn’t do much for me.

[Raphael] Nice, okay. All right. So, yeah, so obviously, there’s the fit aspect for bespoke, right? Another aspect that I value, too, is the customization, right? Being able to truly create something that is unique.

And then, of course, there’s also the relationship with the shoemaker. I enjoy, you know, bouncing my ideas off their experience cause it’s a cool… Oftentimes, you know, we, as a customer, like we don’t know it all, right? We think we do but then really you learn a lot. Maybe walk us through the process, and then we can talk about, like, you know, how does the fit work for you, how is the customization, and how is that kind of relationship aspect, right? Maybe let’s start with a fit process. I mean, I underwent this process myself with you and so did Preston. So, I think we started with some measurement instructions, right? 

[Simon] Yes, probably usually even before that, most customers reach out to me via email or text. Just to kind of clarify some things even before they kind of start the ordering process, and then, yes, you start with the measurements. We have a website, where we kind of have all the instructions, also a short instructions video next to the paper guide, and then you kind of take the measurements yourself. Most customers send me the measurements before they place the order.

[Raphael] And it’s not even yourself. I think it’s best to have someone else doing it. Like you stand, so you need two people. But, you do that, and the nice thing is, too, like you can just take your phone these days and just like film it. You see how it works and that gives you a bit more information so you see it. Was it done properly and you know what’s happening? And, then, also, I think I shared kind of, you know, my idea, right? Like if I’m like, “Hey, I like really tight shoes or I have this toe pain here. Please, let’s consider that.”

I think, I said, let’s put a little bit of foam in there so let’s build the last so there’s enough room for a little bit of foam in there. So, if I’m at a really long day of walking, I will have no pain whatsoever, right? Cause compared to like a sneaker or a tennis shoe, if you walk all day on cobblestones, you will feel it more. I also think there’s this tendency now that people wear these like Hoka shoes with these huge foam layers and that can actually lead to foot pain, right?

There’s that fit thing, so I just communicated with you, and you were like, “Okay, we could do that.”

[Simon] Yeah, exactly, so I mean, of course, especially doing it remote, there are there are some limitations with what kind of fit issues we can accommodate because we aren’t orthopedic shoe makers so we can make a shoe that fits comfortable or comfortably and looks good, but we can’t kind of fix any issues for the feet. So, yeah. So, that’s kind of… We have to manage expectations in that regard.

[Raphael] Preston also has, similar to you, difficult feet, right? And he has one leg that is slightly shorter than the other, so you were able to accommodate all of that stuff. But, so it was nice. Then, I think the next step was you with the measurements, and then one day, I just had like a trial shoe that showed up.

[Simon] Yeah, exactly, so we take the measurements, and then we build the custom last from these measurements. What kind of differentiates us from more traditional shoemakers is that we make a 3D model of the last and have it milled out. So, this saves us a lot of money and also time compared to kind of…

[Raphael] Hand tools?

[Simon] Hand tools, and doing it from wood.

[Raphael] Okay, so it’s like a CNC machine?

[Simon] Yes, exactly. Exactly. And so, it’s a plastic last essentially, and then, yeah, so this will be the the first. You choose the toe shape for the last. We have three different ones, which kind of should be enough for everyone to choose what they like aesthetically and then, of course, the last is built on your foot measurements anyway, so every kind of shoe will look a little bit different and the toe shape will look a little bit different because of the foot width and so on

[Raphael] I remember we had a long email thread, right? It was like you have a good Instagram archive. I think in your website, you have drawings, which personally I thought weren’t that helpful cause they’re stylized, right? The style is not as the shoe will actually turn out.

It’s more like of the idea. You want a double monk strap, you want this. So, you have basic things but then, I found actually going to your Instagram or even picking up other pictures and sending them to you was really helpful in communicating. And so, I was always communicating with you.

It was always the same person. You’re obviously not the shoemaker but, at least, you know how to communicate with your shoemaker so I felt it was a good level of detail and I could express what I wanted in that shoe and also get the feedback from you. We’re like, “Well, I don’t know if we can do that or maybe that’s a bit difficult.” But, overall, I think you mentioned something of most people get, you know, an Adelaide or like a cap toe Oxford or… Tell me a little more about that.

[Simon] Yeah. So, in the beginning, when I when I first started this program, was like, all my kind of followers on social media were like shoe enthusiasts. So, people who were… loved buying shoes and doing different stuff with colors, with patterns, and designs, and so on. So, the first customers I had were all shoe enthusiasts who loved the freedom they had with designing their own model, which we also offer, can pretty much… can pretty much do anything that’s kind of within reason. And, but nowadays, of course, we still have those customers, but they’re very few, and more so like people who actually have fit issues, who kind of need a pair of shoes that fits them well, that’s probably the first pair of shoes that’s hand welted and so on. So, they go to us, and they usually go quite conservative, because… 

[Raphael] Which is fine. Cost per wear, you just get more wear out of it.

[Simon] Exactly.

[Raphael] And it’s all a good thing. So, for example, I think you know, this is the kind of shoe that we talked about, and I think, you know, it was like you had some leather samples, and you had pictures. I thought the pictures were quite small in that two-dimensional shape. I much rather like looking at them on the finished shoe.

[Simon] Yes.

[Raphael] That was really helpful, and so at first, I was like, well, maybe we can make this butterfly-style loafer and have suede here. But then I changed my mind because I was like, well, if I polish of shoes, it’s probably going to be more difficult with a suede. After all, I think it would have worked either way. But this is like that Museum calf leather and this is kind of this grained scotch grain, but it has this nice like, I would say, a darker peak and a lighter valley. So, I thought that that was really nice.

[Simon] I think we put a bit of a patina on it as well. We have like this kind of changeant effect.

[Raphael] Nice. Yeah, but the cool thing was I was like, “Well, can you do it here? And I was like, well can you do it in the back, right? Kind of to have that theme of that butterfly and I even asked Simon, “Hey can we do the stitching in like an X stitching right to kind of get that,” and you tried it but you were like, “I wasn’t happy with it.” So, then we just skipped it, right, but then here you did like a nice Vibram… 

[Simon] Heel block.

[Raphael] Vibram heel block and this is a beautiful waist. It’s very tight. You have the Johannes Redenbach sole. I mean they went out of business, but I think the recipe was bought and then toe plates. So, I’ve worn them a bit, as you can see. They’re not worn extensively, but it’s, um, yeah, it’s good to see the toe shape, too. We had, I think, a round-toe shape first. And it was a bit of miscommunication, ’cause initially it was like, “Well, you can still decide on the toe shape,” and then we went down and then we wanted to change it, and you were like, “Oh, that’s more work.” So, I think, ideally is you decide on a toe shape from the get-go and don’t change it.

[Simon] Right. Because like after the first kind of last is created, everything else is done by hand. So, we then, we had to build up the last to create a square-toe shape and do all the changes by hand, which is, also, which also works and is fine. 

[Raphael] But of course, it’s that it’s cost-effective

[Simon] And also, it might kind of be a bit difficult to get the the same aesthetic, which that we were initially looking for. 

[Raphael] Then, of course, if you use a computer, right? And you get the identical toe shape, versus if you do it by hand with a shoemaker, right, it’s… They get it close, but it’s obviously not identical because 

[Simon] Exactly. 

[Raphael] We’re humans and that’s that’s not possible. Cool, yeah. So, customization-wise, I felt like I could do a lot, maybe with my local shoemaker in St. Paul. I could maybe even a little more but yeah, I was positively surprised in what you could do. We could have also chosen, I think, a Norvegese welt, right? 

[Simon] Yes.

[Raphael] Yeah, you do those, and then do you also offer like wood peg here if people want it? 

[Simon] No, we don’t do wood peg. What we do offer is that we put the initials with brass pegs in the waist. 

[Raphael] But you can only do two initials, I think. Right? 

[Simon] Yeah, otherwise, we’ll run out of space. 

[Raphael] You run out of space, yeah. So, we just skipped that here and that’s totally fine but also, so like, if you maybe can pass the other shoe again. Does that have that you know, on your website you have these like Cuban style, and when I looked at it, I don’t know it seemed maybe a bit extreme to me. So, I asked him, “Hey, can you do something between a Cuban heel and like the normal heel that we have,” and were like, “Yeah, we can do that,” and I think it really kind of worked, right? This is a little higher. 

Still nicely tapered on the side. Here, this is a slightly tapered to the front, right? So, you even can do things that are not on the website, so…

[Simon] That’s, yeah, that’s um I think like for the website in general, like the options we have, I try to slim it down a bit because most customers, they aren’t like us, and they love to go into every kind of detail and, so for them, I made it a bit easier to choose what what…

[Raphael] But like this, you can really see the difference, right? Like the angles and stuff, and oftentimes, like, having fewer options is easier for people. Otherwise, it’s just kind of paralysis of choice and nothing happens. So, from a business point of view, you’re like, “Well, it’s better if people actually have fewer choices,” but if you are one of those people who want a little more, you can do that. 

[Simon] Yeah, you can always reach out to me and ask whether it’s possible or not. Oftentimes it is, and if it’s not, I will just tell you. But yeah, for the customer who orders his or her–mostly his–first pair of bespoke shoes, it’s easier to slim down the options and have a more streamlined process because otherwise, they will just be overwhelmed with all the options.

[Raphael] One thing I like to do is, if we look from the back, you can truly see, you know, it’s higher on the inside of the foot than on the outside; not something you get with a ready-to-wear shoe, even like high-end. That’s typical, done. I liked it very much. I appreciate that. Also, I think, if we compare these two here, I liked that I have a thicker, kind of folded over edge than having a pure cut edge. I, yeah, that’s something I requested and you were able to do.

The only thing that I saw that I thought was interesting was when we looked at the shoes here. Now, it came, and I noticed that you had a kind of cut edge here, right? So, I was like, “Well, why didn’t they put it like here where it was hidden underneath?” So, I didn’t quite get that. Was probably an oversight or something.

[Simon] Yeah. Good point. 

[Raphael] Yeah ’cause I I noticed on this shoe, it’s it’s smooth all around, versus here, it it’s fine, right? And it’s a little detail it’s on the inside of the shoe. The pants are going to be over it. It was just something I noticed.

[Simon] Interesting. 

[Raphael] And I was like, probably not many people notice like. 

[Simon] Yeah, good point.

[Raphael] But uh, something I noticed but you know,I think it’s like with any bespoke product, right? The first shoe it’s … it’s almost impossible to get it 100% right, but in your case, though, I was I was impressed ’cause, you know, we got a trial shoe, I tried it on, and trial shoes are always very different, because even if you use kind of leather, which you do.

It’s, it’s not just like a, it’s a more kind of advanced trial shoe. It’s not the exact same thing, ’cause you don’t have to welt and the shoe looks different because you, this here like just looks very different. It’s much tighter, and then, the heel block, you know, is not like this. It’s kind of a square block, and it’s it’s like harder so you can walk around in those shoes, just to kind of feel how it feels, and then I took, what’s the usual step? You ask people to just put them on…

[Simon] Yes, and wear them for a couple of hours just in your home. The trial shoes aren’t really made to be worn outside. I mean, of course, for a little bit of time, but not for an extensive period. And then I asked them one, for one thing, like for the comments, like what kind of issues or maybe, aesthetically or also in terms of fit they find, have like a list with things they can go over and then for me, the most helpful is usually just some photos and videos, so you can just look myself.

I also work directly with my lastmaker, and we kind of together see what kind of things we would like to change. Also, of course, with the customer in mind, because fit is a very subjective thing, like everyone perceives a good fit a bit differently. So, some people like it when the shoes fit a bit more loosely, and some prefer it when it’s quite tight. 

[Raphael] Yeah, you can ask, right? But people are like, “No I don’t like my shoes tight,” and then, you know you look at them, and you’re like, “Based on my experience levels, yes, you do.” You know, but it’s very subjective, so you have to work with a customer and figure it out, and I think with my shoe, I like it like we did that and you gave us very specific instructions on how to cut them open, and, you know, we use our cameras to film it, but obviously, you can just do phone footage. It’s so good these days, it really helps, and being remote, it’s just important having that extra detail, because you can’t be there in person.

But then, I think you made another trial shoe based on that initial feedback, and um, that’s your standard process, right you do two trial shoes, kind of one, depending on how…

[Simon] Depends, yeah. Standard is one, but of course, there are some cases where two trial shoes are needed. In very rare cases, also three. But we usually don’t go to the finished product if we aren’t comfortable with kind of where the shoes are at.

[Raphael] ‘Cause you want people to be able to wear them even if they’re not 100%, you know? You get 95%, 98% there.

[Simon] Exactly. Exactly. 

[Raphael] Okay, and I think in my case, there was because we had that foam layer … it was kind of funny because, I, the first shoe came with a foam layer, and the second one didn’t have it. So, actually, fit really differently. I was like, I think that’s the reason, and then I changed it, and I put it in. 

But I could remember I could feel it, you know, on my ankle joint, on the outside but then that the final shoe was different. It was good. But obviously, it’s yeah, you think because you use a leather material, the trial shoe is just like the real shoe, but it’s not. The way feels and stuff, it’s not, but it would be too expensive. I mean, part of the reasons you go, most people go, remote bespoke is because you have an attractive price.

[Simon] Exactly.

[Raphael] So, we’re talking about the starting price of…

[Simon] 1300-1500 euros. For first-time customers, it’s a bit more expensive because you have to pay for the initial last and the fitting shoes. But then, yeah.

[Raphael] And you have different options to even, you can have like a hand-sewn welt. Do you… I think you also have a Goodyear option, is that right?

[Simon] Uh, no. So, all the standard option is that the waist is sewn by hand, and the outsole is sewn by machine.

[Raphael] Just show us. 

[Simon] So this part, which is like very tight, and you you can’t see any stitching, actually. It is all done by hand and then from here onwards, it’s done by machine but still very very tight, and a very close stitch density. But we also offer an option where like, all around is done by hand,  which, of course, some people like who are very, like purists and and enthusiasts, love to choose but generally, people are fine with this because you don’t really notice that much of a difference at that point.

[Raphael] Yeah, it’s not visible, but you can bring the price down that way. 

[Simon] Exactly. 

[Raphael] Then you also offer shoe trees; is that included by default, or is it an upcharge? 

[Simon]That’s an upcharge. So, depending on the model, these are the kind of… They’re always lasted, of course. They’re made to your, like it’s essentially a copy of your bespoke last. We have a couple of different options for the shoe trees, and that kind of depends also on the price, but we also try to be less expensive than traditional makers. 

[Raphael] Yeah. So, this is like, what is it? Oak? Looks like…

[Simon] I think it’s sandalwood. 

[Raphael] Sandalwood, maybe. okay. Okay. Um, yeah. I mean, I think if you go the extra mile of a bespoke shoe made it’s in the cost-per-wear interest to get the lasted tree. It’s so much better, so I, like, if you go this route, definitely add them in. I think yeah if this down here was a little more rounded or just taken away, I think it would be even better… because then I could put them in more easily and stretch them and it wouldn’t hurt the shape of the shoe ’cause if I’m not having that extra, if I have more negative space, I think it would be easier to put them in, and there wouldn’t be no discernable leftover.

[Simon] Yeah, so the shoe trees are the only thing we don’t do ourselves.

[Raphael] Okay.

[Simon] I work with a factory in Spain, but probably will work with a different company in the future. So, this is something we are kind of trying to work on.

[Raphael] And that’s normal with any company, right? You have a vendor, and then maybe they are not, they don’t do what they say they do, and you’ll move on or you change things. It’s a very normal process with anyone who offers products. Okay, nice. So yeah then I mean once you are confident with the fit you’ll basically make the shoes, right? So, how long does it normally take from, you know, the stage customer reaches out and expresses interest, and then or, let’s say customer commits, right? So, you just make a down payment you make a payment in full? 

[Simon] Make a payment in full, and then we create the last, we make the fitting shoes. The fitting shoes, as you mentioned, we try to be as close to the finished pair as possible, so we make actually the full pattern, not just like, some shoemakers do just a generic Oxford or whatever. We try to do the actual pair that was ordered for the fittings and yeah, so the fitting shoe to be made with the last and so on takes around four weeks.

So, after 4 weeks, we can send out the trial shoes to the customer, and then it always depends a bit on the customer how fast they kind of respond, how fast they kind of push, put, push the process forward, but once I have all the feedback I need and we’re comfortable to go to the finished pair, it usually takes around 10 to 12 weeks for the actual pair to be made, which is also a bit faster than traditional makers, which often have like a big backlog of orders and so on. So, yeah.

[Raphael] So, that’s quite a good time frame. I mean, there can always be delays, right? With COVID and things, like it’s not within you, so I think, you know, if you have a deadline like a wedding and you need it by then, I’m like I wouldn’t bet on that. It’s like, give yourself a little more time.

[Simon] Yeah, exactly. 

[Raphael] Just so it can actually work and be successful, ’cause the last thing you want to do is, like, rush it and maybe feel like you’re pushing it through just because you need it by that specific date

[Simon] Yeah, I think most customers ordering bespoke are used to kind of the process taking a bit more time usually, when they buy bespoke shoes from us, they usually have already made some experiences with maybe ordering a tailoring bespoke. So, they know things can take their time. So, usually, they aren’t in a rush, and if I have customers who need it for their wedding, which I’ve also had,  they usually reach out like within one year in advance. 

[Raphael] That’s great. 

[Simon] There’s sufficient time to get things right. 

[Raphael] That’s great. Nice. So, can a customer supply their leather? ‘Cause I think I saw like @mr.renworks on Instagram, right? Like, he had this really cool shoe. It was like, was it alligator? 

[Simon] It’s a caiman. Yeah.

[Raphael] Caiman? It was this like reverse, it was this really cool effect. You did a really nice job on the patina. So, one thing that so, maybe not so obvious, ’cause most people don’t choose it, but you offer really stunning patina options, right?

[Simon] Yeah, that’s also something we do. We can also make the shoes in a cross calf, which is like an undyed calf, and then we do a hand patina. So, hand-painted patina on it, in pretty much any color or shade you want. Of course, with that, expectations have to be managed because it won’t look exactly like this, the same as you, maybe the example picture you will show us, but we try to get as close to it as possible.

[Raphael] Yeah, no, but it’s pretty impressive and just like with art, right, you getting the exact copy, some, sometimes different people have different ideas. There are marble effects. I mean, there’s so much out there, but your people can do pretty good stuff. So, I thought it was quite impressive. Overall, I think, the outcome of my first shoe, it was good. I think probably the foam threw things a little bit off. I have these very kind of tight heels, and we talked about it a few times. I think they probably could have been a little tighter, but to be fair, I had that same thing, that same issue happening with the bespoke shoemaker I worked with in person.

[Simon] Mhm, okay.

[Raphael] So, with Amara, the first could be a little tighter into the heel, and loafers are also hard for a first shoe. They are, I mean, loafers in general. I think people don’t realize it, but a lot of bespoke shoemakers don’t like doing loafers because you need an entirely new last, right? It’s similar to maybe like a Chelsea boot, I think. So, I’m always like, okay, if you want, if you like Chelsea boots, that’s great to go with bespoke or a loafer, ’cause they have to stand your foot, you can’t compensate with the laces.

[Simon] Exactly.

So, that [loafer] is definitely trickier. I definitely threw the trickiest option at you that was possible.

SVEN RAPHAEL SCHNEIDER

[Simon] Yeah. 

[Raphael] And actually, I’m going to put them on now, so you can kind of see what they’re like, because that’s the first time. That’s obviously, you can’t see it. You can see a video of maybe what the final shoe looks like on a person, but then, like the second pair should be really really good because there’s no issue in making adjustments. 

[Simon] Yeah, and also, like, even when you get the shoes new, and once they’re broken in the fit will be very different and that’s something you can’t really kind of predict in advance, so it always makes sense, once you have your first pair that you break in the shoes for a couple weeks, and see kind of some issues, which you might have at first, they kind of disappear, but maybe other things that aren’t perfect will appear after, just after a few weeks. So, it makes sense to break in the shoes properly before we make any adjustments  

[Raphael] So, you’d say break-in period, how long? 

[Simon] I mean, of course, it depends on how much you wear the shoes, but usually, you will feel it once the shoes kind of molded to your foot a bit more.

[Raphael] So, what if I wear them like, you know, if I walk like two hours a day. Like two weeks, 3 weeks?

[Simon] Probably, yeah, like 5 to 10 wears probably is enough for it to kind of, to see what the actual wear looks like.

[Raphael] Nice. Okay. Well, let’s, actually, like I’ll put them on here and you just share your feedback, what you want. So, overall, what’s, how, what do you… I see more like wrinkling here. Is that part of the leather, you think? It’s, you’re just more likely to, I mean there’s always some amount of wrinkling. You’re not going to avoid that.

[Simon] So, you need a little bit of space for the wrinkles to go somewhere. You don’t want it to be completely close-fitting. 

[Raphael] Yeah. 

[Simon] Of course, as close as possible, but you need some wrinkles are kind of normal, because the leather needs to go somewhere. Also, the leather you chose is a bit more difficult because it’s a bit thicker, it also makes it a bit more difficult to put shape in, into the toe shape, for example. If it was like just a regular calf, it would look a bit more refined even than this. 

[Raphael] Yeah, that’s true and it’s it’s a grain calf, and I mean, can you split the leather to your desired thickness, or do you basically get it like that from the tanner?

[Simon] We usually get it like this, yeah.

[Raphael] So overall, I think it’ll get, yeah, as I wear them more, I’ll see how they break in, but I’m, you, know very happy with the way it turned out, considering it is remote. 

[Simon] Yeah. 

[Raphael] And yeah, I think it’s a really good first option if you’re new to it, you want to check it out, especially if you live in an area where there’s no bespoke shoemaker.

[Simon] Exactly. That was kind of the idea behind it and that’s also the majority of customers I get; from mostly US customers, like from rather remote areas usually, and also in Asia. So, it’s quite an interesting offering, I think.

[Raphael] Yeah, I still, I think it’s it’s not even an either or, you know. I have a bespoke maker in my hometown, and I love the relationship with her, I love being able to work on things like, you know, we’re working on an alligator loafer right now, so alligator, for example, would be difficult with you because if I wanted to ship like there’s that CITES regulation. So, doing it for a single pair of something is just crazy burdensome paperwork and all that stuff, right? The import costs you thousands of dollars. So, I think that just wouldn’t make sense, right?

So, that’s the use case where I’m like,  go with someone on your continent, so you don’t have to send it across borders, for example, right? Special things like that or like we were even like, you know, discussing. “Okay, this is the pattern,” and before, you know, she cuts it, we’re looking exactly on a particular skin how it’s going to be cut, so we make sure everything is the way, you know, we want it, and I’m obviously more detail-oriented than the average person so that comes into play as well.

But, yeah, I think, you know, being able to get that lower price point and doing it without actually putting in much time is really worth it. For all of our bespoke projects, you have to travel somewhere, and then that is cost, that is extra time. And yes, you can make it a vacation or something, but it’s different. So, I think, yeah, the pros are really: it’s a low price, relatively speaking.

[Simon] Relatively, yeah. It’s not cheap, but uh… 

[Raphael] It is, you get a nice product. It’s a quality product.

[Simon] I think so, yeah. 

[Raphael] You can truly kind of yeah customize it. You also, you’re not pressured, right? When you’re like at the shoemaker, and maybe you forget something, you have all the time in the world, and if it comes back to you, you can take your time and think, get over through a day to get that…

[Simon] Yeah, exactly.

[Raphael] That right idea that you have in mind. 

[Simon] Yeah, yeah. I think so, too.

[Raphael] I think that is very helpful. Yeah, it really, I like that you made bespoke shoes accessible to a lot of people that previously wouldn’t have able to afford it either because of the travel cost, or the overall cost. So, yeah, thank you for what you do, Simon. I appreciate you. 

[Simon] Thank you for having me.