Dress shirts are one of the most important style basics in any wardrobe. While many men own dress shirts, they often struggle to make them work seamlessly with the rest of their outfits. Over the years, we’ve gained valuable insights into what makes a dress shirt truly versatile and essential. If we were to start from scratch, we’d recommend these 10 foundational dress shirts that every man should own. 

Dress shirts are fundamental to a classic man’s wardrobe, yet they often receive less attention than suits, shoes, or accessories. Selecting the right dress shirts is essential, as poorly chosen ones can be challenging to coordinate and may remain unworn—which we certainly want to avoid because each purchase should be worthwhile and must serve its purpose.

With these considerations in mind, let’s explore the best dress shirts for men to establish a versatile wardrobe foundation, ensuring preparedness for various style scenarios with a minimal yet impactful investment.

Dress Shirt Details to know

Men’s Dress Shirt Guide – Fit, Collar, Cuffs & Details

A quick reference for essential dress shirt details that will help you make informed decisions when selecting different types of shirts. Understanding aspects like fit, collar styles, cuff types, and other design details allows you to choose shirts that best suit your needs and preferences.

Check this dress shirt guide first!

Essential Long Sleeve Dress Shirts for Men: Formal

1. White Dress Shirts

Choose a Plain Weave White Dress Shirt as Your Wardrobe Staple

Opt for a medium spread collar and barrel cuffs for versatility

A white dress shirt in plain woven fabric is the cornerstone of a formal wardrobe. We recommend choosing a medium spread collar and barrel cuffs for maximum versatility. This combination allows the shirt to work well in formal and casual settings, pairing seamlessly with jeans or a formal business suit.

While cufflinks add a touch of elegance, they require a double cuff or French cuff. For your first shirt, it’s best to skip this additional expense and focus on building a practical wardrobe with barrel cuffs.

Select a medium-weight fabric for year-round wear

To make a plain weave dress shirt even more adaptable, opt for a medium-weight fabric suitable for year-round wear. A lighter fabric would be too specific to summer, while a heavier one would be limited to colder months. With a medium-weight option, you get a shirt that covers various occasions throughout the year.

Go for a French placket and skip the pocket for a clean look

For the placket, a French style is ideal. Sewn underneath the buttons, the neat seam gives a streamlined look without extra fabric.

We also suggest skipping the pocket, as shirt pockets are rarely used and can detract from the clean appearance.

Many off-the-rack options may come with pockets, but when you have the opportunity to go custom dress shirts, it’s best to opt for a pocket-free design.

If you’re looking for something low-maintenance, consider non-iron dress shirts from Eton. These wrinkle-free dress shirts are perfect for busy professionals or frequent travelers.

Go for a Fancy Weave for an Elegant White Dress Shirt Option

The fancy weave white dress shirt is an elegant option to your white dress shirt collection, with a refined, textured pattern. Best worn as a French cuff shirt, it’s an ideal choice for formal occasions where you want to add a subtle twist to classic white.

We love dress shirts that stand out due to a subtle waffle pattern weave, which sets them apart from a plain weave. When viewed closely and in the right lighting, the pattern adds depth, but from a distance, it appears as a solid white shirt with an appealing texture.

Consider a standard placket for variety

As with other formal men’s white dress shirt options, it’s best to skip the pocket to maintain a sleek appearance. If you went with a French placket before, go with a shirt placket this time simply so you have a range of different things in your wardrobe. A shirt placket creates a symmetrical look, especially if you wear a bow tie. However, for necktie wearers, the placket style is less crucial since the tie covers it.

Try Herringbone as an alternative to waffle weave

If the waffle weave doesn’t appeal to you, a fine herringbone pattern is another classic and timeless choice. Whichever weave you choose, opt for a medium spread collar. This collar style suits all face shapes and works well with tie knots and bow ties. It also looks polished when worn open for a more relaxed appearance.

EDITOR’S PICK FOR WHITE DRESS SHIRTS

THE NON-IRON STRETCH SHIRT

Why we recommend this:

The non-iron finish keeps it crisp throughout the day, and the slight stretch adds comfort. It also offers customizable options for the collar, cuff, pocket, and placket to suit personal style preferences.

Image Credit: Proper Cloth

2. Ivory Dress Shirt

The ivory dress shirt offers a subtle yet essential variation from plain white. When held side by side, the difference is clear, but on its own, it remains understated.

Ideal Color Pairings for Ivory

While plain white dress shirts pair best with dark hues such as black, dark green, navy, or charcoal, they can appear too stark when matched with warmer colors like brown or earthy tones. This is where the ivory shirt excels.

You can pair ivory shirts with…

Dark hues and warm tones

Ivory dress shirts provide a softer contrast that complements tweed and warmer shades effortlessly, making it a versatile choice for business and casual settings. An ivory shirt pairs beautifully with a charcoal or navy business suit but also fits seamlessly with summer suits or outfits featuring warmer tones.

Choosing the Right Cuffs

For the cuffs, your choice depends on how you plan to wear the shirt. If you frequently use cufflinks, opt for a French cuff. Otherwise, a barrel cuff is a more practical option that balances formality with everyday wear. Once your wardrobe basics are in place, the ivory dress shirt becomes an ideal travel companion.

3. Blue/Light Blue Dress Shirts

Choose a Light Blue Dress Shirt in Plain Weave

A blue dress shirt is a must-have because of its universal appeal and versatility. Unlike white, which can sometimes feel stark, light blue adds a hint of color that complements almost every suit color, from navy to gray.

Similar to the white dress shirts, we recommend getting your first light blue dress shirt in a medium-weight fabric, preferably in a plain weave. This weight ensures that the shirt is suitable for various occasions throughout the year.

Again, choose barrel cuffs for a practical and versatile option, and opt for a pocket-free, french placket dress shirt to maintain a clean and streamlined appearance.

Select a versatile shade of light blue

When selecting the shade of light blue, keep in mind that there are countless variations. A pastel or lighter shade of blue is a great starting point, as it offers maximum versatility. The softer hue of blue pairs effortlessly with both formal suits and more casual outfits, making it an essential piece in any classic wardrobe.

Consider a Twill Weave Blue Dress Shirt for Texture and Durability

For a distinctive yet classic addition to your wardrobe, consider a twill weave blue dress shirt. You can choose a darker or lighter shade, but make sure it differs from your existing light blue options. The twill weave features a subtle diagonal pattern, which enhances the fabric’s durability and resistance to wrinkles. This structure allows the fabric to drape well, offering a polished look for the wearer.

In addition, a blue dress shirt in twill weave works particularly well in a slightly heavier weight and is ideal for colder months. It also provides seasonal variety. Conversely, consider lighter-weight fabrics to stay comfortable if you live in a tropical or warm climate.

Experiment with double cuffs and a larger collar

Double cuffs are the best choice for this shirt. This is also an opportunity to experiment with tailored dress shirts. Go for a slightly larger collar rather than a small one. If your previous light blue shirt features barrel cuffs, opting for a French cuff here will give you greater versatility and a better sense of style.

EDITOR’S PICK FOR BLUE DRESS SHIRTS

CANALI LIGHT BLUE TWILL DRESS SHIRT

Why we recommend this:

The cutaway collar adds a modern touch, while the twill weave ensures durability and a bit of warmth for cooler seasons.

Image Credit: Mr. Porter

Essential Collared Dress Shirts: Formal

Note: This section explores the essential collar styles in detail, giving you the background needed to make thoughtful, informed decisions about your formal dress shirts.

Spread Collar

Medium Spread Collar

The medium spread collar is a classic choice that complements a wide variety of face shapes and tie knots. This collar style works seamlessly with traditional neckties and bow ties, offering a polished appearance when buttoned and an elegant yet approachable look when worn open.

Wide Spread Collar

The wide-spread collar is designed for a bolder and more distinguished look. With a greater distance between the collar points, this style is ideal for larger tie knots, such as the Windsor, and is perfect for men with longer or more angular face shapes. The wide-spread collar exudes confidence, making it a go-to choice for formal events and high-power business meetings.

Point Collar

The point collar is another classic option for its versatility and subtle elegance. Its collar points angled closer together create a more elongated appearance, making it especially flattering for rounder face shapes. The point collar is a staple in business dress shirts, offering a more traditional and understated look. It pairs well with slim ties and looks impeccable under structured suits, making it a must-have for professional attire.

Club Collar

The club collar, characterized by its rounded edges, adds a touch of vintage charm to any formal outfit. Originally popularized in the early 20th century, the club collar has made a stylish comeback in modern men’s fashion. This collar style works best with narrow ties and smaller tie knots (Four-in-Hand knot), and it can be enhanced with a collar pin for an extra dose of dapper flair. The club collar is ideal for those looking to add a unique element to their dress shirt collection.

Essential Cotton Dress Shirts for Men: Casual

4. Oxford Cloth Button-Down Dress Shirt

Cotton dress shirts are a foundational piece in any man’s wardrobe, thanks to their durability, breathability, and comfort. Among cotton dress shirts, the Oxford Cloth Button-Down (OCBD) stands out as an American classic. A light blue variation is a popular choice, as the Oxford fabric combines strands of white and blue, creating a subtle, textured color effect. The OCBD shirt’s versatility makes it a wardrobe staple, appropriate for both professional and casual settings.

The OCBD shirt can be worn with or without a suit, effortlessly adapting to various occasions, and its hard-wearing nature ensures it remains a reliable piece for years. Among button-down dress shirts, it stands out as a top pick for men’s casual dress shirts.

5. Flannel Dress Shirt

A flannel dress shirt provides warmth and style, making it an indispensable choice for cooler seasons. Known for its soft, brushed texture, flannel pairs effortlessly with casual outfits like denim jeans or corduroy trousers.

Flannel dress shirts are perfect for layering under a quilted jacket or a simple T-shirt. Classic patterns such as plaids or checks offer a rugged appeal, ideal for autumn outings and laid-back winter gatherings. As a classic long-sleeved dress shirt for men, flannel is practical and stylish.

Want to Master Flannel Style?

Get tips on pairing and layering your flannel shirts for the perfect casual look.

get the guide here

6. Soft Washed Denim Dress Shirt

Once considered unconventional, the soft-washed denim dress shirt has become a modern favorite. Its relaxed, casual vibe makes it perfect for toning down more formal outfits or adding a laid-back element to your wardrobe.

When to Wear a Denim Dress Shirt

While it may not suit a strict white-collar work environment, it’s ideal for off-duty days or smart-casual settings. Pair it with chinos or layer it under a blazer for a balanced, easygoing look. 

Despite initial skepticism about its staying power, the continued trend toward casualization in men’s fashion suggests that this shirt will remain a popular choice for years to come. 

EDITOR’S PICK FOR COTTON DRESS SHIRTS

BROOKS BROTHERS PORTUGUESE FLANNEL SHIRT

Why we recommend this:

Made from premium Portuguese cotton flannel, it provides a cozy feel with excellent durability, ideal for layering in cooler weather or wearing on its own for casual occasions.

Image Credit: Brooks Brothers

Essential Collared Dress Shirts for Men: Casual

Note: This section covers essential casual collar styles, offering insights to help you choose versatile, comfortable dress shirts for relaxed and semi-formal occasions.

Button-Down Collar

The button-down dress shirts originated from sportswear and have become a staple in casual and smart-casual wardrobes. It features small buttons at the collar points, keeping the collar neatly in place and giving the shirt a more relaxed and preppy appearance.

Ideal Pairings for a Button-Down Collar Shirt

Button-down collar shirts pair well with blazers and sports coats and can even be worn alone with chinos. While it’s less formal than a spread collar, it remains a classic option for men’s casual dress shirt selections.

Camp/Open Collar

The camp collar is a relaxed and modern option that adds charm to your casual wardrobe. Characterized by its open, flat-laying design, the camp collar eliminates the need for buttons at the collar points, giving it a laid-back appearance. This collar style is perfect for warm weather and casual settings, such as outdoor gatherings, vacations, or weekend outings.

Ideal Fabrics and Patterns for Camp Collar Shirts

Camp collar shirts are typically crafted from breathable fabrics like linen, lightweight cotton, or silk blends. They often feature bold patterns, vibrant colors, or understated prints, which is great for creating a statement but with a minimalist look. 

Styling Tips for Camp Collar Shirts

Pair a camp collar shirt with tailored shorts, chinos, or denim for a comfortable summer outfit. Layer it under a lightweight blazer or wear it open over a simple T-shirt for a more refined casual look.

Essential Patterned and Striped Dress Shirts

7. Striped Shirts

Blue Striped Shirt on White Background

The first striped dress shirt we recommend is a blue striped shirt on a white background—a classic choice for adding subtle patterns to your wardrobe. Patterned and striped dress shirts add variety to a collection, making them ideal for men looking beyond solid colors.

When choosing a blue striped shirt, opt for a stripe size that balances boldness and subtlety. Stripes that are too fine may look overly plain, while bold ones can limit your pairing options. A moderate stripe works well with a variety of solid suits, adding visual interest to your ensemble without overwhelming it.

Blue striped shirts pair effortlessly with solid and patterned ties, such as small Macclesfield neats or other subtle micropatterns. It’s a favorite among designer dress shirts for its elegance and versatility.

Fort Belvedere

Green Macclesfield Neats Tie

Pair this with your blue striped shirt!

Fort Belvedere

Light Blue Silk Knit Tie

Pair this with your blue striped shirt!

White Striped Shirt On A Light Blue Background

Select a stripe size that complements your existing wardrobe for a white striped shirt on a light blue background. A finer stripe is ideal, as it adds depth without overwhelming your outfit. From a distance, it will appear almost solid, providing a versatile look that pairs well with both patterned and solid ties.

The subtlety of the stripe ensures that even when layering patterns, like a striped tie, your overall look remains harmonious and well-balanced. It fits seamlessly into collections of modern dress shirts and stands out as a men’s white dress shirt staple.

8. Checked Dress Shirt

A checked dress shirt is another versatile addition to your wardrobe, available in classic patterns like light blue checks on a white background or red and blue checks on a white background.

Why a Checked Dress Shirt is a Must-Have

Both options add a touch of color and interest to your outfits, and red and blue remain timeless staples that integrate seamlessly into a classic wardrobe. They’re among the most popular choices for affordable dress shirts that don’t compromise on style.

Perfect for Casual Settings with a Button-Down Collar

To reiterate, a button-down collar is an excellent choice for more casual settings, as it complements the relaxed feel of a checked shirt. Button cuffs are also ideal for casual wear, enhancing the laid-back vibe while keeping the shirt comfortable and practical for everyday use.

EDITOR’S PICK FOR PATTERNED DRESS SHIRTS

ETON BLUE FINE STRIPED SHIRT

Why we recommend this:

The subtle stripe adds depth and elegance without dominating your look, making it versatile enough to pair with both solid and patterned ties.

Image Credit: Eton

Specialty Dress Shirts: Warm Weather Options

For warmer months, having dress shirts made from breathable fabrics like linen and seersucker is essential. These materials are designed to keep you cool and comfortable in high temperatures without sacrificing style.

9. Linen Dress Shirt

The first summer-friendly dress shirt we recommend is the linen dress shirt. The fabric’s lightweight and breathable nature ensures comfort in hot and humid conditions, while its natural texture adds a relaxed elegance.

Linens are best for warmer months!

Linen’s moisture-wicking properties make it ideal for summer events, from garden parties to coastal getaways.

Opt for neutral shades like white or beige for versatility, or experiment with pastel tones to add a splash of color to your casual wardrobe. You can find linen dress shirts at many retailers near you or have one tailored to your preferences.

10. Seersucker Dress Shirt

The seersucker dress shirt stands out for its distinctive puckered texture, which allows air to circulate and keeps you cool in high temperatures. This lightweight fabric is synonymous with summer style, providing a crisp yet casual appearance.

Seersucker shirts are typically seen in pastel stripes or classic blue and white combinations, pairing well with light-colored trousers or shorts. The shirt’s preppy charm makes it suitable for daytime social events, ensuring you remain comfortable and effortlessly stylish. 

Essential Dress Shirt Colors

Building a versatile wardrobe starts with choosing the right dress shirt colors. These foundational hues ensure your shirts are adaptable for various settings, from formal meetings to casual gatherings, making them indispensable in any well-rounded collection.

How a Dress Shirt Should Fit

Achieving the perfect fit for a dress shirt is essential for comfort and style. A well-fitted shirt enhances your appearance and ensures ease of movement. Key aspects to consider include:

• Collar: It should be snug yet comfortable, allowing enough room to insert two fingers between the collar and your neck.
• Shoulders: The shoulder seams should align precisely with the edge of your shoulders, ensuring a natural drape.
• Sleeves: They should end at the wrist bone, allowing about half an inch of cuff to show beyond a suit jacket.
• Chest and Waist: The shirt should fit close to the body without being tight, providing a clean silhouette without excess fabric.

For those requiring specialized sizing, many brands offer big and tall dress shirts to ensure a perfect fit without sacrificing style. Custom dress shirts are also an excellent investment, providing a personalized and precise fit.

For a comprehensive guide on achieving the ideal dress shirt fit, including detailed measurements and additional tips, check our in-depth article.

Outfit Rundown

I am wearing a classic white fancy weave shirt with a subtle waffle pattern. It features a shirt placket, French cuffs, a medium spread collar, and mother-of-pearl buttons. My cufflinks are gold monkey-fist cufflinks—timeless and versatile. If you’re investing in your first ten dress shirts, these would be the perfect cufflinks to pair with them because they work for almost any occasion. For a second pair, I’d recommend silver cufflinks, which are ideal for both formal evening events and less formal settings like board meetings or the office. They’re a purchase you won’t regret.

My jacket is green and part of a single-breasted suit, made from a slightly heavier fabric with beautiful color depth. I’ve paired it with a dark green madder silk tie, creating enough contrast, especially against the crisp white shirt. My pocket square ties everything together by picking up the green tones.

Fort Belvedere

Bottle Green Macclesfield Neats Madder Silk Tie

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Fort Belvedere

Brown & Green Large Paisley Silk Pocket Square

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Fort Belvedere

Mid Brown & Green Shadow Stripe Cotton Socks

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Fort Belvedere

Monkey Fist Knot Yellow Gold Vermeil Cufflinks

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The trousers, also part of the suit, are a brown and off-white houndstooth flannel. They contrast nicely with the texture of the jacket, and the warm, soft colors complement each other. My shoes are dark green suede tassel loafers, which echo both the brown tones of the trousers and the green of the jacket and tie, completing the look. I’m wearing brown and green shadow stripe socks that harmonize with the overall outfit, unifying the brown and green elements.

Do you have all these dress shirts in your closet? If not, what are your dress shirt essentials?

When it comes to determining the quality of tweed, few signifiers are as highly regarded as those of the Harris Tweed Authority. But is this seal of approval really all it’s cracked up to be?

To start answering this question, let’s first dive into the history of Harris Tweed.

History of Harris Tweed

Harris Tweed isn’t actually a brand per se but rather a group of mills that banded together in the 20th century to establish a benchmark for quality tweed. True Harris Tweed is woven and finished by experienced weavers in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland. In fact, the word “tweed” itself comes from Hawick, Scotland, around 1826, where bales of “tweels” (twill, woolen fabrics) were sold.

According to legend, a clerk for Scottish-born London importer James Locke misread the label on one of these tweels as “tweeds.” This is probably because the mills were close to the “River Tweed” in Scotland, and the name has stuck ever since. Soon, other makers were attempting to weave the style themselves with imported mill-spun yarn from the mainland.

Protecting the Harris Tweed Name

Merchants on the island of Lewis & Harris fought to register and protect the use of the term “tweed” as coming from just their island. However, the Scottish courts determined that all islands within the Outer Hebrides could use the term tweed. Still, the name Harris Tweed was chosen to protect all mills within the province in the year 1909. They’re protected under the Orb Trademark, featuring a globe topped by a Maltese Cross and 13 jewels. This, by the way, is said to be the United Kingdom’s oldest certification mark.

Following equipment modernization and a 1993 Act of Parliament, the former Harris Tweed Association Limited was rechristened the Harris Tweed Authority. Although there were 7 million yards of Harris Tweed produced in 1966, by the year 2006, that number was down to just 700,000. Despite its legal protections, Harris Tweed still had to compete in the marketplace.

  Harris Tweed Orb Trademark

A certification mark that guarantees the authenticity and quality of Harris Tweed fabric. This trademark is only awarded to tweed that is handwoven by islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, using pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides. It ensures that the fabric meets the high standards set by the Harris Tweed Authority, preserving the traditional methods and heritage of this iconic Scottish fabric.

Challenges and Changes in the Industry

A Shift in Production

In the winter of 2006, veteran textile merchant Brian Haggas purchased the Kenneth McKenzie Mill, which produced 95% of the Harris Tweed at that time. Haggas cut the number of patterns produced from over 8,000 to just 4, outsourcing some production elements to China with a primary focus on efficiency. He also implemented a “just-in-time” ordering system where he could supply any retailer with any size and quantity of Harris tweed jacket in a matter of a few hours.

However, these changes didn’t lead to the desired sales growth, and unfortunately, layoffs followed. During this period, two other key players entered the scene: New York real estate magnate Alan Bain and former British trade Minister Brian Wilson. Each of them purchased one of the remaining historical Harris Tweed mills. This resulted in a significant consolidation of the industry, leaving only two small mills to produce the world’s entire supply of authentic Harris Tweed – a mere 5% of what was produced before Haggas’s acquisition.

Meanwhile, traditional cloth vendors had scoured the countryside for small stashes of the most colorful tweeds.
A huge stash of many of the 8,000-odd variations, including experimental types, was found in one warehouse, discarded by Haggas’s order. This treasure trove of forgotten tweeds provided a valuable source of inspiration for the two surviving mills, allowing them to draw upon the rich heritage of Harris Tweed.

Harris Tweed’s Comeback

A marketing Renaissance also emerged, with the Harris Tweed Authority courting many fashion brands with the history, richness, and romantic appeal of their clothes. In 2019, Haggas passed the leadership of the Kenneth McKenzie Mill to managing director Alex Lockerby, who was locally born in Stornoway.

By this time, the mill had rebounded and was responsible for approximately 38% of Harris Tweed production, with the other two mills producing the remaining 62%. So, although the history of Harris Tweed was significantly altered in 2006, this storied cloth is still around for us to enjoy today!

How Is Harris Tweed Made

As it says on the label, Harris Tweed is “Handwoven in the Outer Hebrides from 100% wool,” with some other variations depending on the age of the garment. The tweed was also historically hand-spun, though technological advancements rendered this technique inefficient and, ultimately, obsolete. Various clothing manufacturers use this fabric as the material for their jackets and tailoring.

Types of Harris Tweed

Aside from the most popular spongy, dry, and hairy variations of tweed, there are also other types. This would include the thornproof tweed used for hunting and sporting. The wool for Harris Tweed is mainly harvested from the Cheviot and Scottish blackface types of sheep on the islands of the Outer Hebrides. Increased demand, though, has meant that 100% virgin wool from elsewhere in Britain, Australia, and New Zealand is also used today.

The Dyeing Process

The wool is dyed in various colors to be woven into complex color and pattern combinations. The dying process isn’t like most weaving, where the yarns are dyed, but instead, the fleece itself is dyed before being spun into yarns. Once finished, the wool is put into a giant spin and tumble dryer until all of the moisture has been removed. The wool is separated into 30 base colors, which serve as the “key ingredients” when patterns are created.

The most traditional tweed patterns are the so-called “estate tweeds.” Historically, these were the uniform patterns of the lords, ladies, and workers of a given estate, which the mill then trademarked. A fun fact for you: while tartans are for the entire clan or family line, these estate tweeds are just for the estates or the properties themselves.

How Harris Tweed Gets its Unique Hues

The 30 base colors are weighed out in different amounts to determine which color and pattern will be created. The strands are kneaded together so that no one color is dominant. This creates a unique color in and of itself, and it somewhat resembles a giant cake batter. When these different mixes are brought together, this is what gives tweeds their radiant color combinations. The needed fleece is dropped into a vacuum tube and broken up into smaller clumps, where it’s blown around by what is essentially a giant “leaf blower” until the colors are thoroughly mixed and incorporated. [Image credit: TartanKiltsByScotweb]

Hand-spun for Quality and Character

Toothed rollers then tense and mix the fabric for more incorporation and maximum durability. Then, the threads are spun seven to nine times to give them optimal strength. Tweed, unlike worsted wool, keeps both long and short fibers in the mix. This is what leads to that signature hairy feel, as well as those lively color combinations.

Meanwhile, worsteds just keep their long fibers and are combed for that soft, uniform texture. At this point, the yarns are put on a loom to be woven and inspected for defects or weak points. This process is done entirely by hand to be considered genuine Harris Tweed. Finally, the fabric is washed again to remove any remaining oils or impurities in the wool. [Image credit: TartanKiltsByScotweb]

Meeting the Harris Tweed Standard

Once the Tweed fabric is fully prepared, it’s then looked over by an inspector who gives “an accepted cloth” the official Harris Tweed seal of authority. The result is a sturdy and durable tweed fabric that can last for decades of wear and tear or one mixed with softer fibers to create a more contemporary, comfort-first appeal. [Image credit: TartanKiltsByScotweb]

Products Made from Harris Tweed

The Harris Tweed shop offers a variety of products on its website, and most are things that you would probably expect to see, like suits, sports coats, waistcoats, and casual jackets.

It is worth mentioning that today, these garments tend to have a more contemporary cut to them, featuring things like narrower lapels, more open quarters, and less padded shoulders, but at around $400 a jacket, it’s also likely that these are either half canvassed or fully fused garments.

The Harris Tweed shop also has some more vintage-inspired items available, like plus fours or eight-panel flat caps. The shop also offers gloves, dopp kits, pillows, home goods, and many other accessories that feature their signature Harris Tweed, as well as their seal. These items might be fun to consider if you’re a big fan of the rustic aesthetic that tweed creates, but they’re probably not going to give you quite as much mileage as more classic menswear garments would.

Of course, we have some different preferences for our gloves and accessories, but we might be a bit biased. As mentioned earlier, many other menswear manufacturers, be they large brands or small tailoring shops, also buy Harris Tweed fabric to construct their garments. This is true of a number of pieces in Raphael’s collection, as well as the jacket that I’m wearing today.

Outfit Rundown

Today, I’m wearing a jacket made from Harris Tweed—this one is vintage from the now-defunct British menswear store Hodges. The overall feel is of a medium taupe, but there are also tones of green, orange, yellow, brown, blue, and black, all in the barleycorn weave. The casual nature of the jacket is also accented by its brown football buttons, and each sleeve features just one button on the cuff.

This jacket is a brand new acquisition for my wardrobe at the time of filming this video, so I haven’t even had a chance to get it tailored yet. Under the jacket, I’m wearing a light blue Oxford cloth button-down shirt—this one is also vintage, and I inherited it from my late grandfather.

It features a relatively long spear point button-down collar, which provides an excellent frame for showing off the ascot I’m wearing today. This silk ascot from our brand, Fort Belvedere, features a large paisley pattern in tones of burgundy, red, blue, and green, with a somewhat purplish character in certain spots as well. These colors are also echoed in my linen pocket square, featuring tones of blue and burgundy. My trousers are plain brown, though they do feature a reddish undertone, which also harmonizes with the color palette.

My belt and shoes are both medium brown, and the shoes are wing-tipped brogue derbies that feature no medallion on the toe cap. Rounding things out today are my two-tone shadow striped socks in tan and navy blue and the fragrance I’m wearing today, which is Green Irish Tweed from Creed. This one, of course, seemed especially appropriate.

And, of course, I’m wearing one of my trusty short-brimmed fedoras, this one in mustard brown. Speaking of accessories, if you’re interested in the ascot, pocket square, and socks I’m wearing, as well as a wide variety of other classic men’s accessories, corduroy trousers, and fragrances from the Robert Ugolini collection, be sure to check out the Fort Belvedere shop here.

Fort Belvedere

Brown Paisley Silk Ascot

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Fort Belvedere

Blue X-Stitch Edge Burgundy Pocket Square

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Fort Belvedere

Navy & Yellow Shadow Stripe Cotton Socks

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Harris Tweed Beyond Traditional Menswear

It’s not just traditional menswear outfitters that use Harris Tweed, though. The fabric has also found a place in womenswear, and most contemporarily, the MLB has partnered with Harris Tweed for a line of wool baseball caps. If you’re looking for a somewhat more refined baseball cap, this might be a good choice for you, but of course, a flat cap or panel cap would be a more strictly classic choice.

Still, we do appreciate that classic brands are finding different ways to expand their reach, and if one of these baseball caps is what gets you into a fabric like Harris Tweed, and then from there, into classic menswear, then so much the better.

Overall, if construction methods are critical to you, then we’d suggest only buying from trusted makers who use Harris Tweed or buying the fabric directly and taking it to a trusted tailor yourself. This way, you can get exactly the style you want and also address elements like full canvassing if you so desire.

We believe that the Harris Tweed shop offers their smaller accessories for fair prices overall; however, some of the other materials they use, like leather, tend to be cheaper, so you might be better off finding dedicated accessories and small products from other retailers.

So, Is Harris Tweed Worth It?

Firstly, of course, it depends on what you’re looking for. With Harris Tweed, you’re typically going to be getting a fiber-dyed, heavier-weight garment that is good for the colder months of the year because of the processes used to make it. You’re going to get a rich color depth that not only looks good on its own but is also easier to pair with other colors elsewhere in your outfit.

Overall, if you see the Harris Tweed label, you can rest assured that you are buying what is, in general, a good product.

Vintage Harris Tweed Is Better

That being said, not all Harris Tweed is alike because modern Harris Tweed tends to be quite a bit different from vintage Harris Tweed. Any cloth produced under the auspices of the Harris Tweed Authority should be of high quality, especially if you’re buying from a pre-2006 vintage. So, in this way, the cloth is “worth it” generally. As mentioned before, buying the cloth directly and having it made into a garment by a trusted tailor will be your greatest guarantee of quality.

There is a robust supply of vintage Harris Tweed available, but as with anything else, be mindful of the styling conventions as there are plenty of secondhand Harris Tweed jackets out there, particularly from the 1980s and ’90s, that were cut in boxy styles with things like center vents. Meanwhile, a jacket with a half belt or shooting pleats will probably be a bit more difficult to find, and you’ll probably want to consider the odors from vintage tweed garments.

What to Look for When Buying Harris Tweed

Regarding manufactured garments, your mileage may vary. Whether they’re from the Harris Tweed shop or any other seller, you’ll need to assess the quality of their construction independently. In Raphael’s experience, for instance, he’s found that Harris Tweed is generally a good material for jackets like sports coats, Norfolk jackets, or hunting jackets with game pockets.

When to Choose (and Avoid) Harris Tweed

When it comes to hats or accessories, Harris Tweed will generally look the part but will probably wear out a bit faster, specifically for handheld or handled accessories as opposed to hats, than something made from high-quality leather, for instance.

harris tweed:

Durable yet not without limits

Even though it’s a hardy fabric, it will eventually wear out if you wear it hard. This is why so many jackets have elbow patches, after all. Generally, Harris Tweed also isn’t necessarily ideal for pants and trousers as its coarse and scratchy feel, as well as its heavy weight, won’t be particularly comfortable for some.

Of course, you certainly can get trousers in Harris Tweed, and you’ll probably even want them for a proper shooting suit, for instance, but just make sure that you have a proper lining put in.

Construction Matters

So, ultimately, this review is somewhat different than most of the other installments in this series, as we can really only speak to the essential quality of the Harris Tweed cloth itself. As with any purchase, the whole is made up of materials on one hand and construction on the other.

Phrasing this another way, gold is certainly a valuable material on its own, but given that it is malleable and soft, it would be a particularly poor choice to be made into a shovel. Keep in mind that different retailers are going to have differences in pricing, as well as use their own cuts and styles.

As a hearty, rugged cloth, Harris Tweed or any tweed will be better suited for cooler climates and harder wearing large garments instead of small accessories.

Final Verdict

To sum all of this up, you’re going to have to use your menswear knowledge to determine if a specific garment made from Harris Tweed is something that you want to add to your collection. But, in general, the Harris Tweed cloth itself is of high quality, and we find it to be worth it.

With that said, what are your experiences with Harris Tweed, either the cloth itself or garments made from it? Let us know in the comments!

Tweed often gets unfairly labeled as a niche fabric, reserved for aging northeastern college professors or English gentry in the Scottish dells. This stereotype paints it as itchy, stuffy, and old-fashioned. This is an ironic misconception, considering the remarkable role that tweed has played in Classic Style!

In fact, tweed is a versatile and stylish fabric that could be the perfect addition to your wardrobe, especially if you require garments that are insulating and durable but also visually interesting.

The Well-Dressed Have Always Loved Tweed!

Tweeds have been worn by tastemakers and movie stars for centuries, and after learning about the history of tweed, its many varieties, and how to wear it today, we think that you will agree that there is nothing stuffy or stodgy about this remarkable fabric.

Read on to discover the curiously compelling story of tweed and how to include tweed as part of your personal style.

The History of Tweed

Tweed Began as a Working Man’s Fabric

Tweed developed from the homemade, heavy-duty fabrics made in Scotland and Ireland as a way for the farmers and workmen there to battle the chilly, damp climate that characterizes those regions. This fabric was hand-woven and rough, thick, and felted, with muted and earthy colors derived from the most basic dyes. It was truly a working man’s cloth.

Tweed was an early form of

Camouflage

Tweed is known for its stubby, mottled appearance that features tiny flecks of color in an organic, irregular pattern. Because tweed is usually made with earth-toned colors, this mottled effect causes the material and its wearer to partially blend into the background if the colors of the tweed match the local flora and geology. For centuries, Scottish and Irish hunters have used this fact to employ tweed as a kind of primitive camouflage. 

Originally relatively plain and extremely utilitarian, tweed began to develop certain patterns and colors inspired by the earthy landscapes of the Scottish Highlands and Lowlands, drawing from the color palette, or should we say “colour palette,” of Ireland and the northern reaches of the United Kingdom. 

The Origins of the Term “Tweed”

There are two popular theories for the origins of the term “Tweed.”

Tweed Becomes the Preferred Sporting Fabric for Gentlemen

Because tweed is a rugged fabric, resistant to wind and water, with excellent insulating properties, it was soon almost ubiquitous during cool and cold weather conditions in Scotland and parts of Ireland. 

The wearing of tweed entered a new phase when, in the first half of the nineteenth century, many estates in Scotland were acquired by English noblemen wishing to expand their life of leisure. Prince Albert, the husband of Queen Victoria of Great Britain, is notably credited with popularizing Scotland as a shooting and hunting destination. 

Albert was among the first English gentlemen to wear tweed for sports. He created a unique pattern called Balmoral Tweed, named after his Scottish estate. Its colors reflect the local landscape. Balmoral Tweed is an early example of Estate Tweeds, patterns made by landowners to represent their estates.

Balmoral Castle Inspired

Balmoral Tweed

Although Prince Albert moved into Balmoral Castle in 1853, he had been developing his personal Balmoral Tweed for years. Blue with white sprinkles and crimson in color, it was no coincidence that it looks gray from afar, resembling the granite mountains of Aberdeenshire around Balmoral. It was designed for deer stalking in the area.

The Differences Between Estate Tweeds and Clan Tartan Tweeds

Tweed is available in various patterns, but two of the most meaningful classifications are the aforementioned Estate Tweeds and Clan Tartan Tweeds. Both patterns are examples of tweeds, but they have very different significance. 

A Clan Tartan Tweed is a particular pattern of tweed that is used to identify members of the same family and does not necessarily relate to geographic location. It is similar, therefore, to the tartan patterns on traditional Scottish kilts.

An Estate Tweed is a particular pattern used to identify people who live and work on the same estate, regardless of whether they are related or not.

Learn More About Highland Formal Attire!

The Rising Popularity of Unique Tweeds

British noblemen and gentry embraced both tartans and estate tweeds as unique ways to showcase their wealth and status. They focused on developing new tweeds that were distinctive and identifiable while remaining practical: after all, the tweed was still employed as camouflage for hunting and deer stalking. As such, the colors continued to be derived from the land itself, and even the brightest were designed to blend in with the heather, timber, and rocky terrain.

Those who aspired to a similar standard of living to the English gentry in the United Kingdom began to employ tweed patterns as well. In 1874, the New York Gun Club adopted a variation on the Coigach estate tweed as its official livery. The Club modified the tweed using two alternating darker colors together with the white of the Shepherd check, thereby templating what is now known as the Gun Club check.

The first estate tweed

Glenfeshie

In Scottish Estate Tweeds, the author identifies Glenfeshie as the first estate tweed. Commissioned around 1835, it was worn by the estate’s ghillies, who acted as assistants to fishers and hunters, and keepers, who were responsible for maintaining and protecting the land. The Glenfeshie was modified from a basic black and white check worn by the estate’s shepherds overlaid with a red windowpane.

The variety of patterns and colors of tweed found today owe much to the originality of those 19th-century estate owners. Although these patterns were once restricted only to family members and workers of the estate, much like the regimental tie or school crest, today, anyone can wear them.

Tweed was the Performance Fabric of Its Age 

Tweed was the ideal sporting attire of the 19th and early 20th-century gentleman, and as such, it was the performance fabric of its time. The English gentry quickly adopted tweed as the favored outdoor cloth on their upcountry estates. Wearing tweed made hunting, shooting, and fishing comfortably enjoyable pastimes.

In the 19th century, Victorian middle-class people started wearing tweed because they linked it with the leisure activities of the aristocracy. They wore it for almost every sport and adventure, like golf, cycling, tennis, driving, and even mountain climbing.

Tweed on the Battlefield

The durability of tweed was such that it even found its way onto the battlefield. It is a little-known ironic fact of history that during the Boer War, the Boers, in fighting against the British in their desperate struggle, overwhelmingly clothed themselves in tweed!

The look of the

Linksman

Early golfers such as Old Tom Morris only played golf in tweed because the fabric could stand up to extensive walking, did not restrict movement, and was sufficiently insulating to ensure comfort on even the chilliest of days.
The wearing of tweed for golf was nearly ubiquitous up until the 1930s when summer flannel pants and polos started becoming more popular. However, many tweed patterns are still associated with golf, appearing on caps and on golf bags.

Tweed truly was the cloth for all things sports and outdoors back in the day. It was perfectly adapted to country pursuits, as opposed to the darker wool suits worn in the city. This distinction between the leisure-based, earthy-colored tweed and business-focused gray, dark blue, and black suits perhaps gave rise to the so-called “no brown in town” rule, which has mostly gone by the wayside with the possible exception of London.

Types of Tweed

Tweed Is Categorized by Source, Qualities, and Use

Tweed can be sorted in different ways. Some types are named after the sheep that produced the wool, others after the region they come from. Some are linked to brand names, while others are named for their function or the professions of those who wore them.

Tweed Named After Varieties of Sheep

Cheviot Tweed

Cheviot Tweed is named after a breed of white-faced sheep first kept in the Cheviot hills of Northumberland and the Scottish borders. Cheviot yarn is generally larger, rougher, and heavier than other types of tweed. It is a stiff fabric with a certain “sharpness” to the touch and a bright luster. Cheviot fabric usually is woven more tightly, making it well suited for country wear due to its firmness and durability and city wear due to its ability to drape well and hold a crease.

Shetland Tweed

Shetland tweed was originally woven from sheep raised on islands of the same name, from which also hails the famous ponies. This wool is very fine, soft, and has a slightly shaggy texture. It’s the perfect casual tweed for a relaxed, laid-back style during cooler months.

Geographically Named Tweed

Donegal Tweed

The name of this tweed is derived from the Irish county of Donegal. The fabric is coarse, which produces a rustic look, and features contrast-colored specks known as “neps” or “slubs” that appear sporty and casual.

From Spain to Saxony to Scotland

Merino Wool

Merino sheep were originally raised in Spain during the Middle Ages. For centuries, Spanish sumptuary laws forbade the export of Merino-producing sheep from the Christian areas of Spain. As those laws were relaxed, in 1765, the King of Spain sent a herd of Merino sheep to his cousin, the Elector of Saxony in 1765. By the end of the century, the state of Saxony had 4 million of these sheep. Eventually, they spread across the globe.

Saxony Tweed

Saxony Tweed has a fine, short pile on its face and is very soft. It is used to produce comfortably wearing Merino-based sport jackets and, to some extent, suits. In the past, the British Bladen company provided the marvelous 700-gram Supasax tweed, which was a fantastic piece of Saxony Tweed. Although the company is still in existence today and still produces this tweed in 650 grams made from dense and heavy lambswool, it does not have the same hand as vintage examples. Also, the jacket styles available ready-to-wear are more limited. However, the company does offer a lighter 450-gram version that mixes wool and worsted yarns that are well-suited for office wear.

Functionally Named Tweeds

Gamekeeper Tweed

This tweed was designed to be worn by gamekeepers, who maintained animal populations on estates and regularly participated in hunts and cullings. The cloth is typically a heavier weight, over 700 grams or 24 ounces. This provides superior insulation and protection on cold days in the harsh elements. It can be found in various patterns, weaves, and colors.

Sporting Tweeds

Sporting tweeds were developed as a form of ingenious camouflage to help hunters blend into the landscape, and each was particular to individual hunting estates. Color combinations were optimized to find the most effective combinations. For instance, one local weaver produced eight color variations for the Strathconon Estate before enlisting hunters to prove which was least visible. Tweed’s estate sporting background is the primary reason we have so many variations of patterns and colors today.

Thornproof Tweeds

A thornproof tweed is woven with high-twist fibers to make the cloth tough and resistant to tears and punctures. It was first used in 1870 in the Red River Rebellion in Canada, where troops sought out heavy-duty fabrics to resist thorns when tramping through undergrowth. Thornproof is usually a plain, solid-colored, lightly gray-green fabric, but today it is also available with windowpanes. It is convenient for hunting or hiking through thick underbrush, brambles, and gorse. An unusual feature of the thornproof tweed is that it is a self-repairing cloth. If you push a sharp, pointed object through the fabric to make a hole, all you need to do is massage the cloth between your thumbs, and the hole will disappear.

Brand Name Tweeds

Harris Tweed

The most famous brand named Tweed is Harris. Harris Tweed has an open, loose twill weave that is rough to the touch. First woven in the 18th century by crafters in the Outer Hebrides, especially on the Isle of Harris, it was introduced to the British aristocracy in the 1840s by Lady Catherine Murray, Countess of Dunmore. From age-old towns in remote communities, the people of Scotland’s Outer Hebrides provided the world with incredible tweed fabrics.

To regulate and protect the fabric against imitations, the Harris Tweed Orb certification mark was created in 1909 – the oldest British mark of its kind – with the definition, “only tweeds woven in the Outer Hebrides would be eligible.” The use of the name was protected, and only hand-spun and hand-woven products of 100% wool from the Outer Hebrides were allowed to use the Harris Tweed trademark.

Today, the yarn is 100% pure virgin wool but no longer hand-spun. This change was introduced because new looms, such as the Hattersley Mark 1 loom, the first kind operated by feet, were so efficient that the weavers were unable to produce the quantity or consistent quality necessary from hand-spun yarn. Unfortunately, there was not enough wool from the Outer Hebrides to meet the demand, and hence, 100% virgin wool from the United Kingdom is accepted now. Clothing made out of Harris Tweed will have a trademark label sewn into it.

Estate Named Tweeds

Estate-named tweeds are associated with the particular estate for which they were commissioned. These tweeds are remarkable for their variety in patterns, colors, and weaves. This variety gives modern-day tweed wearers plenty of options from which to choose.

Common Tweed Patterns

Tweed can be made into numerous patterns with various colors and designs. In most cases, the pattern choices are merely aesthetic, but in some instances, they can affect the durability of the fabric. How busy or vibrant a pattern is will also affect the overall formality of the tweed fabric.

Plain Twill

This is a simple weave with a diagonal pattern running throughout.

Overcheck Twill

A plain twill with a large checked design overlaid in contrasting color.

Plain Herringbone

Herringbone is so named because it looks like fish bones. The direction of the slant alternates column by column to create ‘v’ shapes. The pattern is quite pleasing to the eye.

Overcheck Herringbone

This pattern consists of a herringbone weave overlaid with a check in various colors. It is also sometimes referred to as “Estate Tweed,” because it was a popular generic design on the estates.

Barleycorn

Barleycorn tweeds are typically coarse and have a weave that produces the effect of barley kernels when viewed close-up. It is a very lively pattern.

Striped

Striped tweeds incorporate vertical lines to create visible stripes of various sizes.

Houndstooth

This pattern resembles the back teeth of a dog and was found to be a very effective form of camouflage. The larger houndstooth pattern is contrasted with the smaller “dogtooth” and the even smaller “puppytooth.”

Checked

A pattern of horizontal and vertical lines that create small squares. It is sometimes enhanced by a larger overcheck in a different color.

Tartans and Plaids

The traditional Scottish clan cloth, that designates a particular family or region, can be woven as a tweed.

Tweed Today

Although tweed does evoke stereotypes such as the Country Gentleman, The College Professor, and East Coast Intellectual, the cloth has experienced a renaissance in recent times and now carries with it a certain sophistication.

A long line of subculture movements such as the British Indie, hipster, Sloane Rangers, and preppies has enthusiastically adopted tweed as a part of their wardrobe repertoire. This periodic “return to tweed” not only helps keep the tradition of tweed alive but also serves to inject new life and energy into this iconic cloth.

Although tweed may still be the exclusive uniform for windswept Scottish estates, nowadays, a thoughtful, well-tailored tweed jacket or suit evokes a certain refined flair for any man. Its rustic outdoor heritage makes it a very democratic cloth, suitable for wear for all classes.

How to Wear Tweed

Because Tweed is inherently a cool weather fabric, it goes well with autumn, cold-weather golfing, the opening of bird season, fall run trout, and crisp winter days. A good rule of thumb for tweed is to wear it in any cool weather situation where a sports coat or casual suit is appropriate.

Weekends are great for tweed. Conventionally, tweed would never be worn in professional or business settings, but with the decreasing formality of menswear in general, no one will bat an eye at a tweed suit except in the most formal and traditional of offices.

Tweed should not, however, be worn on formal occasions: it is simply too sporty and casual. 

Tweed needs to be

Broken In

Because of the way that the wool is woven, brand-new tweed garments, especially jackets and coats, require a break-in period for the fabric to naturally loosen and relax. Some people even go so far as to dash their tweeds against a wall to speed up the process! We recommend that you simply wear your tweeds around your home until they break in: you will know that they have once they feel supremely comfortable and natural to wear.

Tweed Weight and Temperature Appropriateness

Like all fabrics, tweed fabric is usually measured by weight in grams: generally, the higher the number, the heavier and thicker the fabric. Suits made of heavy 700-gram fabrics will not be suitable for most people unless they go shooting when it’s cold outside or the fabric is made up into a coat. Of course, a heavy 1000-gram Gamekeeper’s tweed may be great for some outdoor activity, but if worn indoors, it will likely be too warm.

For most, suits or sports coats made out of a 300 – 400-gram tweed cloth will be much more suitable for a number of different activities such as hiking or strolling. As with anything, consider all these aspects before buying tweed so you are not stuck with a beautiful garment that just hangs in your closet because it’s too warm for you to wear.

How to Wear Tweed Garments

The Traditional Tweed Suit

True country tweed suits are hard-wearing long-lasting garments. Little details like collar closures, leather buttons, and hacking (slanted) pockets all add to the distinctiveness of the look.

If you fancy tweed, you should consider investing in a three-piece tweed suit, perhaps even with knickerbockers, but whatever you decide, ensure you choose a weight that is appropriate to your climate and purpose. The additional waistcoat will also unlock considerable styling potential as a visually grounded odd waistcoat. 

If you’re really into tweed and the country lifestyle, you can go full bore with a Norfolk jacket.

Tweed Jackets and Coats

Due to its country heritage, the vast majority of all tweed jackets are tailored in a single-breasted style with notched lapels and center vents, the vents being a nod to the adaption of jackets for horseback riding. Back in the day, tweed suits were the normal wear option, whereas today, you see more sport coats than two-piece and three-piece suits.

Coats and Overcoats

As an insulating fabric with a gorgeous drape and unique color, tweed is well-suited to coats and especially long overcoats. Heavy, by which we mean over 500 grams, tweed cloth makes for fantastic overcoats, such as an Ulster or Guards Coat.

Tweed Vests and Waistcoats

The general advantage of an odd waistcoat is its ability to expand your dressing ensembles in size and flexibility without taking up much additional space in your wardrobe, all at reduced costs. This is especially true of tweed waistcoats, with their unique texture for visual interest and earth-toned color schemes that will harmonize with most Classic Style outfits.

Accessories

Tweed is not only suited for apparel but also for duffel bags, luggage, gun cases, or even briefcases. You can even find people who wear matching accessories with their bespoke tweed suits, which can look rather sophisticated.

And let’s not forget the classic tweed driving cap favored by rally racers and golfers of yore. These hats lend a dashing touch to a tweed jacket or suit.

What to Pair with Tweed

Shirts

Most tweeds look best with shirts that are not white. Instead, choose pastel colors or patterned flannel shirts in Super 80s rather than a super 200s, because not only are they more in line with the country heritage, they provide more stimulating visual interest that balances the texture of tweed.

Trousers

If you decide to go with an odd jacket made of tweed, there are several good options for pants. In general, a heavier wool is called for to match the weightiness of tweed fabric. Flannel is a great choice as are corduroy, preferably wide-wale, Calvary twill, moleskin, and even waxed cotton. Chinos could also work if the tweed is a lighter weight. Some might even consider a sturdy pair of selvage jeans in a pinch.

Neckwear

Wool, cashmere, or madder silk neckties are an excellent companion to tweed because of their slubby texture. Knit ties in wool are recommended as well for the same reason.

Pocket Squares

Any pocket square that complements your outfit will work well with tweed, although autumnal colors will be especially appealing. Avoid, however, white pocket squares, for the same reason that you avoid white shirts.

Shoes

Full brogues in all shades of brown, lace-up dress boots or jodhpurs, and double soled derbies are all excellent compansions for tweeds because they suit the formality of the fabric. Avoid oxfords as they are more formal, and definitely avoid black shoes: they are too professional and business-oriented for tweeds.

Tweed’s Best Friend: Corduroy Trousers from Fort Belvedere

Stancliffe Corduroy Trousers

British Racing Green

Refined & Regal

Stancliffe Corduroy Trousers

Goldenrod Yellow

Sunny & Stylish

Stancliffe Corduroy Trousers

Pale Tan Taupe

Easy & Elegant

How to Buy Tweed

As a mainstay fabric in Classic Menswear, tweed is sold by almost every major retailer in some iteration. Heritage tweed makers provide their fabrics to numerous companies, including high-end and fashion brands, as well as occasionally assembling garments themselves.

Companies to Consider

The following companies are closely associated with either the making of tweed or the production of quality tweed products. You may find it beneficial to peruse their websites while making your selection, but in general, any brands that you personally favor and trust are likely to offer tweed products in their lineup.

Tweed Lookbook

Brown Tweed Jacket with Maroon Corduroy Trousers

Fort Belvedere

Edelweiss Boutonnière Flower

A Blooming Boutonniere!

Fort Belvedere

Paisley Silk Pocket Square

Subtle Silk

Gray Donegal Tweed Jacket with Maroon Corduroy Trousers

Fort Belvedere

Product Name

Conclusion

We hope that we have been able to show you that tweed is not the itchy, stuffy, stodgy fabric only worn by aging men but rather a fabric with a rich and varied history that is also practical, versatile, and classically stylish. Although eminently suited for its original outdoor purpose as well as any cool weather casual occasion, it can certainly be worn in the city today, especially in less formal environments or on the weekends.

How do you like to wear your tweeds? Let us know in the comments!

In the second part of our series about proper ironing, we will discuss how to iron a dress shirt step-by-step. By following our simple instructions, your shirts will have the ultimate crispness and neatness that you desire, even if you are a beginner when it comes to ironing.

Of the three major garments worn for tailored clothing – jacket, trousers, and dress shirt – a dress shirt is the easiest to iron and the best one to begin with when learning how to iron correctly. In addition to the many benefits you will derive from a beautifully ironed shirt, this process will allow you to practice your ironing skills before attempting more difficult-to-iron articles.

Make sure that you have the

Right Tools

In addition to essentials like the iron itself and an ironing board, we have identified several items that will make ironing a shirt more efficient and easier. Investing in these items will make ironing even easier.

Find new ironing tools

Can't I Just Wear Wrinkle-Free Shirts?

The reality is that truly non-iron or wrinkle-free shirts do not exist. Some companies treat their fabrics with chemicals like formaldehyde to make them wrinkle-resistant, but this effect diminishes after a few washes, requiring you to iron the shirt eventually. Additionally, the fabric will remain stiff and uncomfortable.

Other companies have developed processes that are chemical-free and reduce the appearance of wrinkles but do not eliminate them entirely. While you may not have to iron these shirts as often, they will still require occasional ironing.

After years of practice and experience, we have developed the following order for ironing different parts of the shirt. We therefore encourage you to follow this process exactly to ensure the best experience. Doing steps out of order could compromise the overall effect of the pressing.

Pre-Ironing Prep

What To Do Before You Iron

Proper pressing actually begins in the laundry room. Correct handling of your dress shirt after cleaning will ensure the best possible ironing experience. The steps you take will depend on how you clean your shirts.

If Removing the Shirt from the Washing Machine

The higher the spin cycle on your washing machine, the dryer your shirt will be, but also, the more wrinkles the fabric will have. Promptly remove your wet shirt from the washing machine after the cleaning cycle has finished. Manually stretch and smooth out any obvious wrinkles, and loosely hang your shirt up to partially dry. If you allow your shirt to sit crumbled and wet inside the washer, deeper wrinkles can set in.

If Removing the Shirt from the Dryer

To preserve the life of your shirts and eliminate any risk of shrinkage, we generally recommend avoiding a dryer at all when cleaning your fine dress shirts, but if you do opt to employ one, we recommend removing your shirt before it has become fully dry, as a moist shirt is easier to iron. You should also avoid leaving your shirt crumpled up in the dryer, as doing so can encourage the formation of wrinkles.

If the Shirt Has Not Recently Been Cleaned

While we prefer ironing a shirt shortly after it has been cleaned, it is not necessary that you do so. Take your shirt from your drawers or closet, spray it generously with water, and let it sit in a plastic bag for 10 minutes. Afterward, you have the perfect fabric conditions for ironing.

The Benefits of Ironing a

Wet Shirt

When a shirt is slightly damp, it is usually easier to iron because the heat from the iron can fully shape the cloth with less risk of damage. If your shirt is too wet, it takes a long time to iron, especially if you do not have a vacuum ironing board. On the other hand, if your shirt is too dry, chances are you will not release all the wrinkles when ironing. While the exact level of saturation will vary based on the material of the shirt and your personal preferences, a damp shirt is usually easiest to iron.

Consider Ironing in Batches

Because proper ironing requires a certain amount of preparatory work and setup, we have found that it is most efficient to iron your shirts in batches. That being said, if needed, you can always iron shirts individually prior to wearing them.

1. Organize Your Equipment

When your shirts are ready for ironing, prepare your board and other equipment, such as a sleeve board, tailor’s ham, and spray bottle.

Orient the ironing board with the pointed end to the left if you’re right-handed and to the right if you’re left-handed.

2. Check for Stains

Check your shirts closely for any stains or spots. The heat from ironing will set these stains, making them more difficult to remove.

Likewise, ensure the fabric cover on your ironing board is completely clean, as stains could transfer onto your shirt during the ironing process.

Inspect also the underside of your iron, called the sole plate, for any stains or burned-on matter. Any stains on the iron will transfer to your clothes.

If your iron is dirty, clean it. Apply detergent to the sole plate and let it sit for an hour before washing it clean. Use a scouring pad if needed to remove any detritus fully.

Quick Tip

• Always iron in a well-lit area to see any stains or missed wrinkles.

3. Add Water

Check the water reservoir on your iron. If it is not full, top it up.

Make Sure you are using

Soft Water

Unless you have a water softener or your water is already soft, use distilled water in your iron. Tap water in many areas is “hard water,” meaning it has minerals that can cause calcium and magnesium buildup inside your iron. This buildup can clog the holes and stop steam from coming out. If steam does come out, it might convey whitish or brownish solids that can stain your clothes. A jug of distilled water is cheap and can be found at your local grocery store; investing in it will spare you the hassle of a damaged iron or stained clothes.

Quick Tip

• If sections of the shirt start to dry out, spray them with water.

4. Set the Correct Temperature

Your iron will have different settings suited to the fabric type that you are ironing. Consumer irons will have fabric-specific heat settings, while professional irons usually just have numbers or dots to indicate intensity. Most irons will have a designated heat or steam area that is best for ironing shirts, so consult your user’s manual for more information.

How to find the safe

Temperature

Examining the fabric care label on your shirt will indicate the proper setting for your iron. Most cotton shirts, for instance, are safe to iron at medium heat, as indicated by the symbol of an iron with two dots. More delicate fabrics like silk, however, may benefit from cooler temperatures, while hardier fabrics like wool or linen may require a higher temperature.

Let the Iron Heat Up

After plugging in your iron, do not immediately start ironing; instead, give your iron time to reach the desired temperature. Consumer irons will have fabric-specific heat settings, while professional irons usually just have numbers. Most irons will have a designated heat or steam area that is best for ironing shirts, so take a closer look.

Quick Tip

• Use the steam function on your iron generously to relax stubborn wrinkles

How to Maneuver the Iron

A key to success with all ironing is not to make broad sweeping motions with the iron but to apply short, controlled movements, applying consistent pressure to the cloth. Moving your arm too broadly or too rapidly will pinch the fabric, adding new creases.

Remember, ironing is also called “pressing” for a reason, and putting weight on the material as you iron is essential for good results.

As you press, keep pulling and moving the shirt to keep it flat. Spreading the fabric out on the board or smoothing it with your hands is essential when ironing. Focus on small areas as you work.

5. Press the Cuffs and Sleeves First

Begin by laying a sleeve on the board. If you have a sleeve board, now is the time to use it.

Open the cuff button and lay it flat; press it, first the inside and then the outside. Then press the length of the sleeve.

If you have French cuffs, iron the underside first and then the side of the cuffs you’ll see when you wear it.

Cuffs should also be ironed from the outside with gentle motions, so you avoid wrinkles.

The top of the sleeve should be ironed last.

Repeat with the other sleeve.

What about a

Sleeve Crease?

If you don’t want a crease down the middle of your bicep and elbow, avoid pressing the edges of the sleeve down against the board. Instead, concentrate on the middle of the sleeve. If you like a prominent crease, we suggest you invest in a clapper, which ensures a very sharp, obvious crease every time.

The Benefits of a Sleeve Board

If you have a regular ironing board, you will always have to iron two layers of the shirt at the same time, which increase the risk of wrinkles. To avoid this issue, you can invest in a sleeve board. This tools allows you to separate fabric layers and iron them one at a time, effectively eliminating shirt sleeve wrinkles. In addition to shirts, it also works well on both trousers and jackets.

6. Press the Collar

Pop up your collar. If your shirt has removable collar stays, remove them at this time. First, iron the underside of the collar with gentle motions. Press the inside flat.

Now, flip over the shirt and iron the outside of the collar (the side you will see when you wear the shirt).

Fold the collar back to its normal position and press the outside.

Quick Tips

• If you want a soft roll collar, don’t press down to the points—just iron the portion that will sit behind your neck.
• If your collar has a sewn interlining, iron from the outside in using short strokes. If you iron in one motion, you will get wrinkles in the shirt.

7. Iron the Yoke

The yoke of the shirt is the panel of fabric that drapes over the shoulders. It can either be in one large piece or two sections, which is called a “split yoke.”

Use the shape of the tip of the ironing board or a sleeve board to separate the layer of the yoke from the rest of the shirt.

Iron the yoke. Avoid rumpling the recently ironed sleeves or collar as you work on the yoke.

If your dress shirt has a split yoke, iron one side and then the other.

8. Iron the Shoulder and Chest Areas

As you did with the yoke, you can employ the curved structure of the iron board to assist you as you iron the shoulders and upper chest sections of your dress shirt.

With either the top button of your shirt done or undone, align the top area of your shirt with the narrow part of the board and press the shoulder and chest on one side of your shirt.

Iron the other half of the front of the shirt in the same way

Rotate the shirt and iron the back. Do not iron in one big motion, as this will not remove wrinkles and may create even more.

Pleats and Similar Features

The back of the shirt may have pleats, such as two middle pleats or side pleats. It could also have grinze, shirring along the yoke seam typical of Italian shirtmakers.

When ironing your pleats, pull the shirt from the bottom so you get the pleat where you want it, then press them with steam and heat. A clapper could also be employed.

For the grinze, use gentle motions but ensure you fully remove all wrinkles.

Quick Tip

• If your shirt is heavily wrinkled, re-iron the wrinkled area from the inside and then re-iron the outside again, reapplying sprayed water as needed.

9. Iron Along the Placket and Buttons

Adjust the shirt so that the button-side of the placket is facing up in front of you on the ironing board. Apply gentle pressure to the tip of your iron to fully press between the buttons.

Watch out for those

Buttons

If the buttons on your shirt are made of plastic, do not keep the hot iron too close to them, as they could start to melt. Mother-of-pearl and horn buttons should require no special considerations, but be careful when moving the iron to ensure that the tip does not scratch or damage valuable or delicate buttons.

Flip the button-side over and iron it from the back.

Finish by ironing the front and then the back of the placket side.

Quick Tip

• If your shirt has a pocket, iron it last. The excess material in the pocket itself can make it difficult to iron, so use small, gentle ironing motions and take your time to prevent creasing.

Do I Have To Use Starch?

Many spray starch products promise a military-grade finished look, but these results are usually mediocre and fleeting at best. These cheap starch products can also stain your shirts. If you use starch at all, ensure that it is genuine rice starch and be sure to follow all listed instructions exactly.

Interested in More Details?

To provide an even more in-depth presentation of how to properly iron your shirt, we have created an extended video featuring additional angels, including top-down and side views.

Conclusion

Once you develop the proper mindset for ironing and get the basic equipment, you’ll find that ironing shirts is straightforward. With the information gleaned in today’s article, additional types of shirts, such as tee shirt and polo shirts, should prove to be no issue for you. You’ll quickly get the hang of making your shirts look sharp within minutes, and before you know it, you can graduate to the slightly more challenging task of pressing pants and jackets.

Meanwhile, give us your tips for ironing shirts. What ironing gear do you own? Do you use a spray bottle? Tell us in the comments below.

Outfit Rundown

Today’s outfit is casual and loose to facilitate doing chores. It consists of a pressed dress shirt striped in blue and white cotton. The shirt has barrel cuffs that won’t interfere with the ironing. Raphael is wearing a pair of navy blue denim with a brown crocodile belt and a silver buckle which works well with his silver and carnelian green ring. The shoes are antique brown penny loafers that harmonize with his belt. Raphael’s socks consist of red and blue shadow stripes socks available in the Fort Belvedere shop. They help tie everything together; the shoes, the jeans as well as the ring he’s wearing.

Fort Belvedere

Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Navy Blue and Red Fil d'Ecosse Cotton

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We have already put together an extensive guide about sunglasses, the styles, materials, and more, but one of the most common problems is “I can never find a pair that looks good on me” or “How can I tell which pair works best?” Today, we put together a guide that helps you narrow down the styles that work well for you so you can find the best sunglasses for your face shape, skin tone, and hair color.

Read the comprehensive guide!

Identifying Your Face Shape & The Sunglasses For You

A fundamental step in determining what pair of sunglasses suits you is identifying your individual face shape. In fact, it pays to be familiar with what type of face you possess not only for this reason as it can play a part in identifying potential hairstyles, facial hairstyles, and even hat styles that might be best suited for you.

The six types of faces are square, round, oblong, heart-shaped, diamond, and oval. To figure out what shape you are, you’ll need more than just a mirror. You’ll need a tape measure, a pencil, paper, and someone to help you.

1. Beginning at your forehead, measure across it at the widest point. Write that number down.
2. Then, measure the widest length across your cheekbones. Again, write it down.
3. Moving lower to the jaw, measure your jawline at its widest point. You guessed it: write it down.
4. Next, measure the length of your face by placing the measuring tape at the top of your forehead at the hairline and measuring it down to the bottom of your chin. Write it down.

Regardless of your numbers, your face is going to fit into one of the following six categories of face shapes. To determine which shape your face is, use the measurements and check the following shapes.

Oblong

You may have heard the phrase “having a long face” used to describe you before, and having an oblong face shape means that it’s meant to be taken quite literally. Oblong faces are longer than they are wide. For the most part, the measurements of the jawline, cheeks, and forehead will be very similar. If your measurements fit this, chances are you have an oblong-shaped face.

This is not to be confused with the oval face shape, wherein you would have a wider forehead and rounder chin. The oblong face shape is built for oversized frames. Your best bet is going to be larger frames with some thickness to them. Sharp angles and concise lines will help to sharpen your soft facial features, giving you a more masculine look.

Look to ever-popular sunglasses styles, such as aviators and wayfarers, as well as wraparounds and rectangles, for a start. But as long as the frames aren’t small, you should be just fine.

Heart

Defined broadly by a wider forehead and cheeks, a slender jawline, and a narrowed and pointed chin, the heart’s face shape is an inverted triangle, slightly longer than it is wide at the cheeks by about an inch or so. It is closely similar—and often confused for—the round face shape due to having similar outlines. Look to the tapered chin of this particular shape for their distinctions. 

A Heart Shaped Face Is Like

An Inverted Triangle

Since you’ve probably been told how beautiful your eyes are time and time again, that’s a great indicator that you have a heart-shaped face.

[Image Credit: British GQ]

Round and oval frames will serve to balance your tapered and asymmetrical features. Wire-framed and semi-rimless sunglasses such as aviators and Clubmasters achieve the same while keeping you looking light and minimizing the width of your forehead and cheekbones. If you do want a certain amount of thickness to the frame, focus on finding ones that point the attention downwards. Just make sure they’re not too embellished.

Square

Square-shaped faces are pretty equal in length and width. The cheek and length measurements will be similar, with just an inch or two difference. Also, the other measurements will all be similar, and the edges of your face will be almost straight up and down. You’ll notice concise, sharp corners rather than rounded edges at the jaw.

Much like the previous entry, look at rounder and rimless sunglasses styles that’ll contrast and compliment your broad jawline and chiseled features. These particular styles will provide a balance to your uniform and often angular face shape. Meanwhile, semi-rimless glasses might serve to introduce a sense of asymmetry and interest. Overall, it is best to stick with any pair that has nice, gentle curves to compliment your masculine appearance.

Oval

Often referred to as “egg-shaped,” oval faces are longer than they are wide, with a slightly wider forehead and shorter jawline. Usually, the chin is slightly rounded. And while being “egg-headed” isn’t something most would rejoice in being, we’re here to tell you having an oval-shaped face is, in fact, a cause for celebration, being one of the most versatile shapes, meaning you can wear almost any style of sunglasses with ease.

Take inspiration from

Don Draper

More than any other style of sunglasses though, the contemporary rectangle-shaped frame, being sharp and wider than they are long, is the exact antithesis of an oval-shaped face. This makes it the perfect frame to balance and refine your soft, round features. This goes just as well for square-framed glasses.

Aside from these, look as well to the ever-trusty aviators and even wayfarers for added boldness to your look. But, again, with a face like this, the world is your oyster.

Round

As wide as they are long, the difference between a rounded face and a square is that a round face has a smaller forehead with a small rounded jawline. The forehead will be smaller than the cheek measurement, and there won’t be any sharp lines of the jaw but rather a gentle curvature.

Like how a round frame compliments a square face, the opposite is true for round-shaped faces. You will find that many of the frames that compliment an oval-shaped face will also compliment faces of this category. So, again, selecting frames that are rectangular, horizontal, or even wayfarers are going to be your best bet since they’ll give your face a longer, more oval appearance.

Diamond

Characterized by high and wide cheekbones, a tapered and pointed chin, and a narrow forehead, people with a diamond-shaped face will want to focus on complimenting that first feature most of all.

To do this, you’ll want to counteract your sharp, angular features with rounder sunglass frames. Additionally, styles such as aviators and semi-rimless glasses like Clubmasters do well to draw the eye downward to balance the prominence of your cheekbones.

Choosing the Right Color

Similarly to how your sunglasses’ frame shape should complement your face shape, the color of your sunglasses’ frame exemplifies features such as hair color and skin tone.

Skin Tone

Besides the natural skin tone, there are two other categories: warm skin tones and cool skin tones.

Light Skin Tones

For light skin with warm undertones, your forearm is going to be a light peach with greenish-yellow undertones. If you fit into this category, try warmer neutral colors like bourbon brown and burgundy or saturated colors like jewel-toned purple or warm gold.

If you have light skin with cool undertones, your skin will be light pink with blue undertones. Lighter pastel colors, as well as ivory, silver, and gray, will work well for you. Avoid anything bright, especially saturated colors around the warmer end of the spectrum, but feel free to try blues and pinks for a more whimsical look.

Medium Skin Tones

If you have medium-colored skin with warm undertones, you’ll notice you have yellow and green undertones. Ambers and rich browns all work well with your skin tone—anything bright with an orange hue, even gold and tortoiseshell. Even green will flatter you.

If you have medium skin with cool undertones, you’ll have pink and blue undertones on your forearm. Tropical colors like blues and greens work well, but you can also get away with dark, bluish reds closer to magenta or as far as a deep purple. You can even go for a cool shade of black.

Dark Skin Tones

If you have darker skin with warm yellow undertones, consider metal frames, darker browns, cognacs, ambers, and tortoiseshells—again, colors within the red and orange spectrum. They’ll all work well with your skin tone.

Look your best with

Dark Sunglasses

If you have dark skin with cool blue undertones, you can also stick with cooler colors like blues, but your best bet is going to be the darkest shades of black, deep browns, and gunmetal. For more variety in color here, you may wish to venture into darker shades of cool greens and purples.

Hair Color

Hair naturally ranges from bright blondes to the darkest of blacks with a full spectrum of browns in between—even reds and grays. Much like your skin, hair color may also vary between cool and warm tones.

Blonde Hair

Lighter-colored hair will, in general, benefit from darker-colored frames to contrast and compliment their bright features. Cool-toned blondes may benefit from sunglass frames in cool blacks, darker grays, and navy while avoiding anything warm and saturated. Meanwhile, their warmer counterparts should look to rich browns, such as amber and mahogany, as well as deep greens and peach. Either undertone, however, will find themselves looking good in a tortoiseshell frame.

Black Hair

From one end of the spectrum to the other, black is unique in that its neutrality often leads to versatility. Any color works here. You could choose to double down your dark features with a set of black, dark gray, or navy frames or opt for boldness through contrast with a brightly-colored frame or perhaps a bright, neutral color.

The best advice on what to avoid here is anything that clashes with or washes out your skin tone.

Brown Hair

Moving on from the extremes, “brown” is a broad term, and what best suits you will obviously depend on which end of the spectrum you lean toward. But as a general rule, cooler-toned brown-haired gentlemen will want to lean on green, blue, purple, pink, and silver sunglasses frames, and warmer tones will lean to reds, oranges, yellows, browns, and golds. When in doubt, however, tortoiseshell is a safe bet wherever you fall in this broad category.

Red Hair

For redheads or brown-haired gentlemen who fall closer to that hue than others, there is an obvious answer: green. But, if you’re looking for something less bold, lean on the fiery warmth of your crown and opt for reddish browns like burgundy or mahogany. For metals, go for gold or copper, and never forget that tortoiseshell is always a safe choice.

Gray Hair

BenefiT from your hair’s

Neutrality

Much like black hair, those who have chosen to embrace gray hair can enjoy a variety of options. The neutrality of gray allows you the opportunity to enjoy bolder colors with much less fear of color clashing or go for the elegant contrast of black frames. Even for metals, almost any hue will fit your hair.

Does The Color of the Lenses Matter?

Thus far, we’ve focused exclusively on the shape and color of your sunglasses’ frame. But, unlike eyeglasses, which are typically untinted, sunglasses are. Then, the question arises: Does lens color matter? Yes, they do.

More than aesthetic, the tint of your lenses actually has a practical and technical purpose to them as well. Seeing as you’ll be seeing the world through your lenses, their tint affects how light will be filtered through your eyes.

Gray or Black

As the general use tint, black is mainly good for blocking out excess light and reducing fatigue. Its neutrality provides true and natural color perception as well. In terms of style, they’re an easy go-to, able to work in any frame color and any skin tone.

Blue and Green

Green-tinted lenses are known to be a popular choice for outdoor activities for their ability to reduce glare without compromising visibility. They also have the added benefit of blocking blue light, which adds to eye fatigue. Meanwhile, blue is known to improve perception during low-visibility situations such as snow or haze.

On the matter of style, either color will look excellent on people with cool undertones.

Amber, Brown, and Yellow

Much like gray and black tints, both amber and brown are versatile choices as they block out excess light and improve contrast in a milder way than either gray or black.

Slightly block out the sun with

Warm colored sunglasses

Brown and amber are popular choices for water-adjacent activities. Yellow, on the other hand, aids in visibility in low-light settings.

All three are, in fact, the best at blocking blue light. These colors are best for people with warm undertones, complementing them, especially under the sun. 

Bonus Tip: Consider Your Lifestyle, Too!

As much as we are advocates for classic style, we also advocate having the right tools for the job. Much like any article of clothing you wear, you must first and foremost consider your lifestyle and what you’ll be doing in them. After all, just as you’ll never hear us suggest that you wear swimwear to a gala, you’ll never hear us telling you to wear a Black Tie ensemble to the beach.

So, when choosing what types of sunglasses you’ll be getting, consider what you’ll be using them for, how long you’ll be wearing them during the day, and also consider what it is you live in. We talked about the practical uses of the different lens tints in the previous section, which will certainly be part of it as well.

If you’ll be spending most of your day outside under a sunny sky, you’ll need sunglasses that offer good UV protection. Wraparounds are perfect for this as their shape naturally protects your eyes from the environment, especially when paired with dark-tinted, polarized lenses. Their design means that they’ll be snuggly fit around your eyes as you go about your day.

If you’re at the beach, consider amber-tinted sunglasses with not a wraparound frame but simpler, wider like aviators or wayfarers. They also provide good UV protection but are easy enough to pull on and off when getting in and out of the water.

When doing more extreme outdoor activities like biking, cycling, or skiing, you’ll benefit from mirrored lenses since they reflect light and glare away from your eyes, allowing you to see better.

Conclusion

Knowing your face shape, skin tone, and even hair color, is key to great sunglasses. For more information, be sure to check out our sunglasses guide, which lists recommended brands and talks about sunglasses in far greater detail.

What face shape are you, and what style of frames do you find work best? Does your favorite pair complement your skin tone? Let us know in the comments!

This guide explains how to put on a boutonniere, how to attach it, and what to do if a jacket lacks a buttonhole or has one sewn shut. Whether a wearer prefers real or silk flowers, these tips will help you enjoy this classic accessory.

Ready to look sharp with a boutonniere?

Brief History of the Boutonniere

While there are various theories, including the famous story about Prince Albert inventing the lapel buttonhole to hold flowers from Queen Victoria as a romantic gesture on their wedding day, evidence suggests otherwise. Historical records, like his wedding portrait, show no indication of this practice.

Others say that the boutonniere’s origins date back to the 15th century as a good luck charm for a knight. However, the first concrete evidence appears in a 1771 Gainsborough painting, showcasing a flower worn in a jacket’s buttonhole.

Interestingly, this predates the traditional lapel; jackets then were buttoned high, eventually contributing to the lapel’s design as we know it.

Don’t pin a boutonniere directly onto your lapel

Whether real or not, pinning a boutonniere directly onto your lapel compromises the elegance of your look and risks damaging the fabric. 

It also looks odd, especially with a shiny metal part reflecting the light. People are more prone to look at your flower than at your face.

The proper placement is to always put the stem through your jacket’s left lapel buttonhole.

How to Put a Boutonniere Into Your Jacket (Traditional Way)

Now that we’ve established the core rule, let’s dive into how to wear a boutonniere correctly. The first step is all about your jacket’s buttonhole:

Step #1: Check for a Buttonhole (Or Get One Added)

Ideally, your jacket will have a functional buttonhole. This is the traditional and preferred way to wear a boutonniere.

But, What if your jacket

Has NO Buttonhole?

If your jacket doesn’t have a buttonhole, visit an alterations tailor to have one added. This preserves the integrity of your jacket and upholds the classic style.

Many jackets come with a sewn-shut buttonhole. However, you can open it (carefully) by locating the buttonhole and using a small, sharp tool. It can be a pocket knife, box cutter, or a sharp razor blade to make a small, gentle cut to open the stitching. Make sure not to damage the seam or surrounding threads.

Once you have an open buttonhole on your jacket, simply insert the boutonniere stem through it. The procedure is the same for real and silk flowers.

Step #2: Use a Boutonniere Loop Stem Keeper or a Safety Pin

A stem keeper (a tiny loop at the back of the lapel) is a must-have to prevent your boutonniere from drooping or looking messy. It keeps everything secure and polished.

If your jacket doesn’t already have a stem keeper on the underside of your lapel, you can easily make one. However, if you don’t have time to make your stem keeper and you need a solution right away, get a simple safety pin.

Tip for a quick fix

The Safety Pin

The safety pin has the same function as a stem keeper. Just open the safety pin and carefully pin it through the back of your lapel. Make sure it doesn’t peek out in the front.

This is a quick and inexpensive fix that works in any jacket!

Step #3: Insert the Boutonniere Flower

Once you’ve prepared your jacket, you can then slide your boutonniere stem through the buttonhole and keep the stem secure using either the boutonniere loop or the alternative closed safety pin. Nobody will see it from the front and you can easily remove it later.

Here are some examples of how to wear a boutonniere on a jacket with different colors and patterns:

Choosing the Right Boutonniere

The right boutonniere adds a final touch of refinement to your classic wardrobe. Let’s explore how to choose the perfect boutonniere to match the occasion while upholding timeless elegance.

Fresh or Silk Boutonniere Flowers – Which is Better?

The first step in selecting the perfect boutonniere is deciding on the type of flower. Are fresh flowers or the enduring beauty of silk the better choice for your boutonniere? Let’s weigh the options.

Fresh flowers

The quintessential choice for discerning gentlemen, fresh flowers offer a touch of elegance and vibrancy. Popular options include roses, orchids, lilies, and carnations. However, there are some drawbacks to consider.

Fresh flowers can be challenging to find exactly what you’re looking for. The flower stems might be too thick for a lapel, and most importantly, they wilt and stain your dress shirt or suit jacket.

Silk flowers

While fresh flowers have their traditional charm, silk flowers present compelling reasons to favor silk boutonnieres:

• Durability: Silk boutonnieres remain pristine throughout a long event, with no worries about wilting or staining, making them ideal for long events or travel. This is especially important for landmark events like weddings, proms, or graduations.
• Wider Variety: Silk flowers are available in a vast array of colors and styles and can even mimic the look of exotic blooms that might not be readily available.
• Lower Maintenance: Unlike fresh flowers, silk boutonnieres require no watering or special care.
• Realistic Look: High-quality silk flowers, like the ones created here in Gentleman’s Gazette, look very realistic. We use special techniques to achieve natural coloring and size down flowers that would be too large for a lapel.

Fort Belvedere

Edelweiss Boutonniere

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Fort Belvedere

Red Spray Rose Boutonniere

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Fort Belvedere

Yellow Mini Carnation Silk Boutonniere

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Although silk flowers offer significant advantages, they also have drawbacks. Less-expensive silk flowers made with cheap fabrics show unrealistic details identifiable even from a distance. Furthermore, they may lack the vast color and size variety found in natural blooms.

Finally, creating high-quality, realistic silk flowers requires significant craftsmanship, which can sometimes lead to a higher price tag compared to simpler silk options.

So, which is better? Fresh or silk boutonnieres? Considering all of that, while quality silk flowers may have a slightly higher initial cost, their enduring beauty, versatility, and ease of use make them a superior value overall.

How to Style a Boutonniere for Different Events (Formal & Semi-formal)

Here are some key factors to consider when choosing your boutonniere:

Formal Events (Wedding, Gala)

Formal events like weddings or galas call for more elaborate boutonnieres in your formalwear. Consider incorporating the event’s color scheme into your boutonniere selection for weddings. Alternatively,  a single, classic rosebud might be an ideal choice for a business meeting.

Did You Know? While the groom and groomsmen typically wear distinct boutonnieres, other wedding guests are welcome to add this touch of refinement as well. Just make sure that your boutonniere is not overly showy, bold, or large, as this touch often indicates a member of the wedding party.

Semi-Formal (Prom, Graduation)

Vibrant silk carnations, small clusters of your favorite blooms, or unique textures add distinctive flair while maintaining a classic style. Don’t be afraid to express yourself!

Some ideas include single carnations in vibrant or understated colors; small floral clusters featuring your favorite blooms; and unique silk boutonnieres with interesting textures or unexpected colors.

Important Note

The color and style of your suit should influence your boutonniere selection. A bold-colored flower might overpower a light-colored suit, while more muted boutonniere flowers might complement a patterned jacket.

Moreover, you should pay attention to the proportion of the lapel and the flower when selecting your boutonniere. It should be in scale with the lapel of your jacket. Opt for smaller flowers for a balanced look, as a large flower head on a narrow lapel will look out of place.

Modern Adaptations (With a Caveat)

Today, contemporary trends and a decline in jackets with traditional buttonholes have led many to latch their boutonnieres directly to the fabric using 1 or 2 pins. 

However, it’s important to be aware of the drawbacks of direct pinning. As mentioned previously, this method often damages delicate fabrics and compromises the elegance of the overall look.

Plus, the visible pin detracts from the beauty of the flower and creates an informal aesthetic. While you can creatively adapt a boutonniere directly to dress shirts, vests, suits, blazers, and pocket squares and sometimes see them pinned to hat brims or ties, it is not considered classically “correct.”

Remember, these placements deviate from the classic approach and are often more difficult to secure neatly than a lapel buttonhole. But when left with no choice, always use caution with pins to avoid causing accidental injury.

Ready to Elevate Your Style?

Whether you’re a guest, heading to a wedding or a prom, or want to add polish to your everyday look, the boutonniére is a timeless touch.

Remember, always start with a functional buttonhole, add a stem keeper for a polished finish, and don’t be afraid to express your personality through your choice of flower and style.

Fort Belvedere

Red Poppy Boutonniere Remembrance Day Flower by Fort Belvedere

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Burgundy Red Handcrafted Linen Pocket Square with White Handrolled X Stitch – Fort Belvedere

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